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I also considered the idea that those blocks might start interfering with one another when aligned and when lowering the gaffs, leading to the offset blocks.
Bluenose - Model Shipways MS2130 - 1/64 - By JeffT [COMPLETED BUILD]
That is a nice observation, Kurt. If I understand correctly that it is about the little kink in the topmast shrouds.
I saw that happening also by my BN, although I moved the rests for attaching the deadeyes.
Then it is interesting to include the sketches of J.B.Jenson from his Sage. He draws in all his sketches, in which it can clearly be seen, the small deadeyes of the topmast shrouds between the 1st and 2nd main shrouds. And those small deadeyes are exactly in the middle of both masts:
2x2 blue arrows point to the little deadeyes. Then the topmast shrouds won't have a 'kink'.
But with most kits they are in the middle of the shrouds and slightly backwards. (Jenson has also drawn 5 main shrouds for the main mast.)
It's an interesting discussion whether or not it is functional, given the small angle. The angle is at the foot of the topmast. The top mast shrouds are purely for lateral forces.
My excuses for this side-step in your build-log, Jeff.
Regards, Peter
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The bowsprit with rigging sometimes gets in the way. A trigger part. You've done a great re-do, Jeff
Regards, Peter
After reading the posts again and some input from Johan @RDN1954, I now understand it's about the eyebolts on the top of the lower mast for lifting the gaff's. Excuses for the misunderstanding.
About the offset of the eyebolts I found this page in Howard Chappelle 'Bible:
He shows the offset of them.
Hopefully I've made up for something with this addition?
Your offset is fully correct, Jeff!Regards, Peter
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I have started the fore and aft standing rigging for the Bluenose. The lower first stay (jumbo jib stay) required some additional parts before installation. The stay goes around the foremast as a yoke or harness and that is attached by a shackle to the stay. There is also a single block (Jumbo jib downhaul) attached at the lowest part of the stay where it attaches to the hardware on the hull.
I tend to do fore & aft stays from bottom to top and bow to stern. The order that I followed was 1) jumbo jib (inner) stay, 2) jib stay, spring stay, pullback stay, and finally the balloon jib (outer) stay. As I was adding the stays, I did a full anchor of one end and left the other end tied but not glued. This allows me to snug down each stay as other are tied and minimizes moving the masts in such a way as to loosen one of the early stays that were tied. I use clamps to help hold the free end of the stay while working on the next stays. The Bluenose uses shackles on several stays. Most of the fuzzies are from the seizing thread and tend to not show after gluing and trimming the ends.
I tend to do fore & aft stays from bottom to top and bow to stern. The order that I followed was 1) jumbo jib (inner) stay, 2) jib stay, spring stay, pullback stay, and finally the balloon jib (outer) stay. As I was adding the stays, I did a full anchor of one end and left the other end tied but not glued. This allows me to snug down each stay as other are tied and minimizes moving the masts in such a way as to loosen one of the early stays that were tied. I use clamps to help hold the free end of the stay while working on the next stays. The Bluenose uses shackles on several stays. Most of the fuzzies are from the seizing thread and tend to not show after gluing and trimming the ends.
I haven't decided completely about the flying backstays yet as the plans say that they were used primarily for racing and I have built the fishing version. These stays can either be used as a backstay (one at a time) or hooked to a eye after the last shroud of the mainmast. I wanted the backstay in place to counter the pull of the other stays so I added both flying backstays but rigged one to a eyebolt at the stern (starboard) and one to the storage location. I left the running end of the tackle long enough that I can change sides if I decide to do so later.
Very…
Good morning Jeff. Looking mighty fine. Awesome redo BTW. Cheers Grant
I completed the fore and main gaffs. The plans call for using a shackle and 2 links on each gaff. I tried 2 different ways of making believable brass links, but both seemed to be oversized. I ended up doing a rope yoke instead. I still may need to shorten the yoke as these may make the blocks too close together when the gaff is pulled into place. I used some black jewelry beads for the parrels.
I also built the anchors but will wait to install them until later. I am going to rig and hang one them and store the other disassembled on the deck. I only have one rope wrap on the disassembled anchor. It is difficult to see the shape of the bar in this picture, but there is some shaping.
I also built the anchors but will wait to install them until later. I am going to rig and hang one them and store the other disassembled on the deck. I only have one rope wrap on the disassembled anchor. It is difficult to see the shape of the bar in this picture, but there is some shaping.
I completed the catheads. These pieces are Britannia metal and very delicate. Drilling an mounting eyebolts was fairly challenging. I made some small eyebolts by wrapping brass wire around a drill bit. These were smaller than the supplied eyebolts and had the added advantage of having a surface that should hold in place better after gluing.
An eyebolt hole was carefully drilled in the side of the cathead and the eyebolt was glued in place. The cathead was inserted through a hole in the rail and glued into a shallow hole in the deck. The cathead unit was bent over the rail into its final position and one of the supplied eyebolts was used to hook the cathead to another eyebolt in the buffalo rail.
An eyebolt hole was carefully drilled in the side of the cathead and the eyebolt was glued in place. The cathead was inserted through a hole in the rail and glued into a shallow hole in the deck. The cathead unit was bent over the rail into its final position and one of the supplied eyebolts was used to hook the cathead to another eyebolt in the buffalo rail.
Wow, what a tiny cathead! And I suppose you'll make some tiny turnbuckles next?
The turnbuckles in the photos with the cathead are the smallest I am going to do. I think I still might need one more for the build. With your Constitution, you're one to talk about tiny.Wow, what a tiny cathead! And I suppose you'll make some tiny turnbuckles next?
I was thinking about making working turnbuckles for my Robert E Lee. But now I’m doubting it.The turnbuckles in the photos with the cathead are the smallest I am going to do. I think I still might need one more for the build. With your Constitution, you're one to talk about tiny.
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I know this from a while back (gives an idea of where I am in my Bluenose build), but what are AL, FI, and BL?
Hi Hugh.
In his build-log of his Bluenose, Dean @Dean62 used often his 'Artistic License' to explain a particular choice.. We shortened that to 'AL'.
In my build-log of the Bluenose I often used my 'Free Interpretation' for item from different sources. That's 'FI'. Then 'AL-FI' was born, often looking over your shoulder.
Francois @François wrote in his build-log of his Alfa Romeo that he use his 'Builder Leeway' for several items. That's the 'BL'. Then we got 'BL-AL-FI'.
Sorry for the side step, Jeff.
Regards, peter
No problem, Peter. I was glad that Hugh asked the question. I am certain that I can claim to follow a couple of these. I might add "SL" for "Skill Level". I decided to stay away from "Builder's Skill" after writing its abbreviation first.
I prefer BC: builder's choice. As the skipper, I can choose the direction I'm going. (Unless the Admiral overrides me. Then it's AC.)
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Thanks for the explanation. I think I’m pretty much full of BL in life, although people around me would say I’m using the wrong consonant and should be using “S” instead of “L”.
Sails! I have been slowly working on the sails for the Bluenose. I first made patterns on paper from the plans. I found that by using highlighters of different colors on the plans to outline each sail helped to separate the shape of the sails. There is a lot of overlap for the sails, and they are difficult to visualize without some sort of visual separation. Next, I laid the sails onto the supplied material and marked them with a pencil as well as the seam lines. I then drew in the fold over areas (3/32" / 2.4mm) for the edges.
I used the Admiral's sewing machine (about 45 years old but it still works great) to sew the seam lines. Finally, I cut out the individual sail with a material cutter wheel. Using fabric glue I folded over the edges twice and sewed the hem of the sails.
I used the fabric glue again to glue on the bolt ropes and then hand sewed them to the sail hem. I am doing this job one sail at a time since it is boring and hard on the hands. Once the bolt rope is on, I mounted the completed sail to the ship and did the rigging for the sail. The rigging is installed but not fastened down permanently in case I need to tighten or loosen something. Here is the Jumbo Jib installed.
I have also completed the jib and the balloon job as well.
Even though it is not technically correct, I decided to take Builder's License and have the sails basically in line with the hull. I think it will display better this way.
I used the Admiral's sewing machine (about 45 years old but it still works great) to sew the seam lines. Finally, I cut out the individual sail with a material cutter wheel. Using fabric glue I folded over the edges twice and sewed the hem of the sails.
I used the fabric glue again to glue on the bolt ropes and then hand sewed them to the sail hem. I am doing this job one sail at a time since it is boring and hard on the hands. Once the bolt rope is on, I mounted the completed sail to the ship and did the rigging for the sail. The rigging is installed but not fastened down permanently in case I need to tighten or loosen something. Here is the Jumbo Jib installed.
I have also completed the jib and the balloon job as well.
Even though it is not technically correct, I decided to take Builder's License and have the sails basically in line with the hull. I think it will display better this way.
I like your sails, Jeff!