Le Rochefort 1:36 build by Tony P

Donnie. My lumber was cut for the Hahn method so it’s thin strips that I’ll cut the frame blanks from. I’d think it’ll take about the same amount of lumber regardless of framing method so you’d just order wider strips.
70 pcs 1”x24”x 7/32
34 pcs 1.5”x24”x 7.32

7/32 is almost dead on 5.30mm
 
Two days of work besides the wing transom (transoms). The first two were not really thick enough. It’s easy to thin them down too much while trying to get the form. Start very heavy and work down like I didn’t do.
I’m going to concentrate on the axial structure for now since I’m deep into it. Make sure every thing is a proper fit, mill the keelson and rising wood then I’ll put it aside all aside and start the frames Hahn style.

F8A74A48-C1CB-4775-B31C-EB3AC7EF0CAD.jpeg

963F72BE-08A3-448C-A50F-C1596808E878.jpeg
 
Donnie. My lumber was cut for the Hahn method so it’s thin strips that I’ll cut the frame blanks from. I’d think it’ll take about the same amount of lumber regardless of framing method so you’d just order wider strips.
70 pcs 1”x24”x 7/32
34 pcs 1.5”x24”x 7.32

7/32 is almost dead on 5.30mm
Thanks Tony. Novice question… I keep seeing reference to the “Hahn Method,” can you elaborate or point me to a reference about it?
 
Two days of work besides the wing transom (transoms). The first two were not really thick enough. It’s easy to thin them down too much while trying to get the form. Start very heavy and work down like I didn’t do.
I’m going to concentrate on the axial structure for now since I’m deep into it. Make sure every thing is a proper fit, mill the keelson and rising wood then I’ll put it aside all aside and start the frames Hahn style.

View attachment 345962

View attachment 345963
Hi Tony, please recheck the assembly of your tailgate site, I think you need to rotate the crossbars 180 degrees.
03082245-57EF-4160-911D-61EAE8C5FAA6.jpeg

Here is an example

6E57FB46-815B-497C-AEA7-2362D1D35963.jpeg
 
Thanks Tony. Novice question… I keep seeing reference to the “Hahn Method,” can you elaborate or point me to a reference about it?
This is from Dave at The Lumberyard. In short its a method of building frame blanks and cutting the frames from them instead of having to cut every piece of frame individually. It also incorporates a hull building method in which the tops of the frames are extended by an exact amount allowing you to build the hull upside-down. I'm not doing that I'm just using the frame building method and building my hull in the normal fashion. Seems complex but it really isn't.
 
This is from Dave at The Lumberyard. In short its a method of building frame blanks and cutting the frames from them instead of having to cut every piece of frame individually. It also incorporates a hull building method in which the tops of the frames are extended by an exact amount allowing you to build the hull upside-down. I'm not doing that I'm just using the frame building method and building my hull in the normal fashion. Seems complex but it really isn't.
Thanks Tony. Dave’s treatise on Hahn’s method is great information. Since I’m currently reading Underhill’s books, I see some similarities between Hahn’s methods and Underhill’s In building the frames. Underhill liked building the hull in the traditional shipyard style if “from the keel up” but also constructed the frames in a similar manner to Hahn and used a support to keep the frames aligned. However Underhill placed the support Inside the frames at or near the waterline Instead of making a jig around the outside of the hull.
Really love learning all this new information and enjoying the support of all the expert shipwrights on SOS. Thanks!
 
Yes there’s a few ways to skin a cat. I’m “trying” this method. Success isn’t guaranteed. This is only my second POF the first being only the Blandford hull section.
 
Hello everyone, I asked again about caulking in the French forum. Here is Gerad's answer, I have translated it into English for you.

As I said, I'm not an expert and I'd rather ask again. ;)


5A1DB30E-B55D-4FF0-A0DB-8B7FEFFF779C.jpegCaulking empty Re: Caulking
New message G. Delacroix Today at 18:28

For the "water stopper pins" it is relatively new in France (late 18th century), but much earlier in use by the English.

As for the contact surface between the keel structural parts, they are systematically tarred and a felt cloth is placed between them before they are dowelled.
 
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Hello everyone, I asked again about caulking in the French forum. Here is Gerad's answer, I have translated it into English for you.

As I said, I'm not an expert and I'd rather ask again. ;)


View attachment 346323Caulking empty Re: Caulking
New message G. Delacroix Today at 18:28

For the "water stopper pins" it is relatively new in France (late 19th century), but much earlier in use by the English.

As for the contact surface between the keel structural parts, they are systematically tarred and a felt cloth is placed between them before they are dowelled.
Hi Tobias, did I give the right news?
 
Hello everyone, I asked again about caulking in the French forum. Here is Gerad's answer, I have translated it into English for you.

As I said, I'm not an expert and I'd rather ask again. ;)


View attachment 346323Caulking empty Re: Caulking
New message G. Delacroix Today at 18:28

For the "water stopper pins" it is relatively new in France (late 19th century), but much earlier in use by the English.

As for the contact surface between the keel structural parts, they are systematically tarred and a felt cloth is placed between them before they are dowelled.
Thanks that’s great. Not caulking as we think of it but the same thing really. I do like the look of it so now I’ll proceed and add the paper.
 
Hello everyone, I asked again about caulking in the French forum. Here is Gerad's answer, I have translated it into English for you.

As I said, I'm not an expert and I'd rather ask again. ;)


View attachment 346323Caulking empty Re: Caulking
New message G. Delacroix Today at 18:28

For the "water stopper pins" it is relatively new in France (late 18th century), but much earlier in use by the English.

As for the contact surface between the keel structural parts, they are systematically tarred and a felt cloth is placed between them before they are dowelled.
Hi Tobias, did I give the right news?
Gerad made a mistake and corrected it, I have corrected it. He didn't mean the end of the 19th century but the 18th century, if not earlier. So we are in the time of Le Rochefort.
Yes Frank you are right, I am tilting my head ;) Thumbsup. But only from the middle to the end of the 18th century, before that there was no such thing on French ships.
 
Hi Tony, what thickness did you end up using for the keel, stem and stern parts? I saw some discussion on whether 6.95mm or 6.75mm were correct… Also, are you also using beech for those components? Thanks again for leading this novice. ✌️
 
Hi Tony, what thickness did you end up using for the keel, stem and stern parts? I saw some discussion on whether 6.95mm or 6.75mm were correct… Also, are you also using beech for those components? Thanks again for leading this novice. ✌️

Using Beech yes since I have it left over from Blandford so I’m using beech for the entire keel, frames, deck beams etc. when I get inside I may change it up or wait till I get to furnishings and topside to change up the wood type a bit. It comes out to 6.55 nominally what I’m using. It’ll work. Yes 6.75 is the correct size.
 
Using Beech yes since I have it left over from Blandford so I’m using beech for the entire keel, frames, deck beams etc. when I get inside I may change it up or wait till I get to furnishings and topside to change up the wood type a bit. It comes out to 6.55 nominally what I’m using. It’ll work. Yes 6.75 is the correct size.
Thanks!
 
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