Le Rochefort build log by OlivierF

[Tobias]

Hello Oliver, first of all very nice progress and secondly sorry that I didn't answer right away. What is important is that they are aligned in the water and the distance is the same everywhere (between 2,3,4 and 5). I put equal sized spacers in between. This is not the case with the transom 1 because it is curved. The fashion piece looks more difficult than it is, I only made and fitted it at the very end. In other words, all frames are installed, then the rear is assembled and then the fashion piece is inserted. The fashion item is labeled 9 and the plan view is labeled T and B. I'm going to do an illustrated guide this week because it's really difficult to explain.

 

[OlivierF]

Hello Oliver, first of all very nice progress and secondly sorry that I didn't answer right away. What is important is that they are aligned in the water and the distance is the same everywhere (between 2,3,4 and 5). I put equal sized spacers in between. This is not the case with the transom 1 because it is curved. The fashion piece looks more difficult than it is, I only made and fitted it at the very end. In other words, all frames are installed, then the rear is assembled and then the fashion piece is inserted. The fashion item is labeled 9 and the plan view is labeled T and B. I'm going to do an illustrated guide this week because it's really difficult to explain.

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Tobias, Thanks for your reply. In looking at your photo it looks like you left your fashion piece thicker and will fair it down to match the frames. I made mine much to narrow. I believe I will, again, take your suggestion and wait until the frames are installed.

 

[Tobias]

Please note that no grinding work has been done on the outside and it is still oversized. I will only do this when the inside is planked to have a higher stability.

 

[OlivierF]

Milestone!
First frame glued up and dry fitted to the keel. Perfect fit!
Now, let’s see how I do on the next 31…

 

[Nersch]

Looks damn good!
The long brackets are a good idea. I think I will order some too.

 

[OlivierF]

Assembled a couple more frames today. I’m going to assemble and dry fit the frames that correspond to the reference numbers first.
so far everything is lining up perfectly.

 

[OlivierF]

I’m slowly making progress on the frames. So far they all seem to be fitting correctly. Once completed I’ll work on sanding them to final thickness of 10.6mm the hard part will be taking an equal amount off both sides… which me luck.

 

[Tobias]

Good morning Oliver, that looks really good "the squirrel is slowly eating". I assume that you have 5.5mm and thus a total of 11mm. There are two options, either you clamp your frame in your router and remove 0.2mm from each side (very time consuming but accurate) or you do it like me. Cover a board with sandpaper (120 grit) and peel off your frames in circular motions, always applying the same pressure and 7-10 circular motions from both sides. Measure every pass. It's going to be pretty accurate and if you have 0.05mm less on one side than the other you can't tell with the naked eye.

 

[OlivierF]

Good morning Oliver, that looks really good "the squirrel is slowly eating". I assume that you have 5.5mm and thus a total of 11mm. There are two options, either you clamp your frame in your router and remove 0.2mm from each side (very time consuming but accurate) or you do it like me. Cover a board with sandpaper (120 grit) and peel off your frames in circular motions, always applying the same pressure and 7-10 circular motions from both sides. Measure every pass. It's going to be pretty accurate and if you have 0.05mm less on one side than the other you can't tell with the naked eye.

Thanks Tobias. I will give your suggestion a try.

 

[OlivierF]

Well, I finally got to spend some time in the shipyard today. I got all the frames to final thickness following Tobias’ advice on using a sheet of sand paper and manually sanding and equal number of strokes on each side of the frames. However, two steps forward and one step back… . I managed to sand the inside taper of one of the frames backwards! Oh, phooey (not actually the word(s) used) !!!




I’ll need to remake frame 29, again.

I also got the keelson slotted and fitted. It still needs some final trimming and sanding. All the frames are fitted and seem to line up as they should.



lastly I modified my drum sander‘s “Luthier’s Best Friend” by adding an out-feed stabilizer. It helps tremendously in controlling the vibration and accuracy of the thicknes. I made the 3mm dividers seen in the photos and was able to repeatedly sand to exactly the dimension within 0.01mm.
I will most likely refine the stabilizer now that I have proof of concept.


Next step will be making the rising wood fillers and notching the frames for the floor-timber chocks.

I did note in Bruno RIMLINGER’s blog that he also notched the inside of the frames. Presumably for floor timber to be set into… is anyone else planning on doing that?

 

[Tobias]

Hello Oliver, everything looks very good, the notches on the frames are correct, I did the same with my Le Rochefort.

 

[Uwek]

Very good progress and very good result -

 

[OlivierF]

Ok, deep breath… I think I’m ready to attach the frames. I’ve bolted the keel to the base so it will stay flat when applying glue to the frames. The floor timber slots are cut, the filling pieces are ready to add and everything appears square, level and plumb.
wish me luck!

 

[Uwek]

let's get ready to rumble!
I am crossing all the fingers, but I am sure everything will run smoothly - everything is well prepared

 

[Tobias]

Hello Oliver,
I can only agree with Uwe. I have no concerns, the preparations went well and everything looks very good.

 

[OlivierF]

As I was starting to lay the frames I realized I had forgotten to make the bolts joining the frame pieces. I got a piece ebony I had laying around and managed to slice a couple of pieces off and sanded down to about 0.40mm. Ebony sawdust is black and oily and makes a mess by the way…



However trying Adrian’s method of taping the slice to a sacrificial board worked until trying to peal the thin pieces off the tape. Complete failure!
so I ordered some 0.40mm carbon fiber struts used in airplane modeling which seems a lot easier to install. However these struts are not inexpensive.

Coincidentally, I was watching a Olha Batchvarov YouTube video where she was drilling holes for tree nails in hull planking. Instead of using toothpicks or dowels she applied ebony wood putty. I figured I had nothing to lose so I got some and tried it. Well, to my eye, in the scale we’re working in and the angle of view to see the end result, I think this is the way (for me…).



this photo shows a sample of both the carbon fiber bolts (bottom) and the putty on the upper sections.


close up of the two methods


Close up of end result using putty with the frames in situ.

Anyone have any thoughts on using this method? The putty is supposed to be non-hardening and non-shrinking. I have no idea how it will hold up over time…

 

[clogger]

I found the carbon fibre was expensive too. I think the ebony putty would be the way to go.

 

[Tobias]

Hello Oliver,
the topic has been raised before in the French forum and GD has expressed his concerns about whether this will last. It is also the wood that is in motion. I personally do it with brass nails.
I would say try makes us smarter.

 

[Uwek]

I made in the past (I think on the Bonhomme Section the treenailing of the decks with some putty and was at the end not very satisfied with the result. a lot of Sanding is necessary to get all rest away and also the edges of the "bolt" are not enough accentuated - means the bolts is not really round, because the wood around the drilled hole has some damages which are also filled by the putty.
Looking at your photo the carbon fiber is also looking better than the putty (in my opinion).

The french modelers are often using brass wire, therefore the info given by G.D. , he likes the typical way, but me also - I do the bolts with copper nails, so slightly different.

 

[Tony P]

Looking great Oliver. the putty certainly seems easier than actual nails yes.