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It was the nature of the kit, the possibilities you saw in it despite its' humble nature and your devotion to it that captured and held my interest and attention. 
Cheap Chinese Halcon speed build [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter DARIVS ARCHITECTVS
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- completed build halcon
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- Oct 31, 2023
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Also Kurt, as a newbie to the tall ships, and that I have a copy of this sow's ear. Your build as encouraged that other than a mule to try and learn planking, that there could be a silk purse. I have started gluing up the frame this morning.
Bruce
Bruce
The smallest appear to be best. The holes in the belaying pin rails measured at ~0.63mm (using pin drills as the gauge). And the smallest offering was 0.6mm dia. I ordered two packs of 25. But each side of the boat has 29 (or more?) belaying pin holes!?! Will I need more?
M.
Day 39
Things are getting tighter access wise for rigging. I decided not to put sails on this particular model because of the cramped working quarters. Today the fore topgallant clue lines and sheets were rigged.
The lines are very difficult to see. I used Gutermann Mara 100 poly line instead of the fuzzier thread used previously. That’s like putting a diamond on a pig, but this model has already gone way over cost and time expectations.
The starboard sheet and clue belaying points are the two center most belaying pins on this rack.
Things are getting tighter access wise for rigging. I decided not to put sails on this particular model because of the cramped working quarters. Today the fore topgallant clue lines and sheets were rigged.
The lines are very difficult to see. I used Gutermann Mara 100 poly line instead of the fuzzier thread used previously. That’s like putting a diamond on a pig, but this model has already gone way over cost and time expectations.
The starboard sheet and clue belaying points are the two center most belaying pins on this rack.
- Joined
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She's turning into a beautiful miniature.
Hey guys... the kit is getting even CHEAPER!
Found on eBay:
Found on eBay:
Or best offer??? I wonder if they'd take $5
You going to get it for your next remote challenge?
At least this one shows rigging in the picture.
Day 40
There’s no special order to which lines I’m rigging, except for considering installation of lines at the centerline first, then moving outboard so future access to belaying points isn’t blocked by rigging.
The fore topsail sheets and clue lines were rigged.
First, the blocks at the sail clues needed to be made.
The sheets were belayed at the bulwarks, run up to the double block at the center of the fore coarse yard, then outboard through the yard sheaves, the attached to the clue blocks using tiny toggles.
The clue lines are run from belaying points on the bulwarks, up to blocks near the center of the topsail yard, down to the blocks at the ends of the sheets, the back to the topsail yard where they are tied off.
Next, the main boom topping lift was rigged.
First, rings where the topping lift line need to be made for the main boom.
Making the rings was done using black coat thread as follows. Loops of thread make up the rings, tied around a drill bit, using two overhand knots, secured with CA glue.
The double loop is tied to the boom and secured with glue.
The boom is now connected to the main mast by tying off the parrel and trimming off the excess line after securing the knot with glue.
The main book lift line’s fall is rigged to two belaying pins. The first of many rope hanks to come were hung on the belaying pins.
The other end of the lift line is run to a chock on the boom, the up to a block below the crosstrees, then down to the aft end of the boom where it is hooked to the port side ring made earlier.
Here is the boat so far. Still lots of rigging left to do, even though the rigging omits several minor lines for simplicity.
There’s no special order to which lines I’m rigging, except for considering installation of lines at the centerline first, then moving outboard so future access to belaying points isn’t blocked by rigging.
The fore topsail sheets and clue lines were rigged.
First, the blocks at the sail clues needed to be made.
The sheets were belayed at the bulwarks, run up to the double block at the center of the fore coarse yard, then outboard through the yard sheaves, the attached to the clue blocks using tiny toggles.
The clue lines are run from belaying points on the bulwarks, up to blocks near the center of the topsail yard, down to the blocks at the ends of the sheets, the back to the topsail yard where they are tied off.
Next, the main boom topping lift was rigged.
First, rings where the topping lift line need to be made for the main boom.
Making the rings was done using black coat thread as follows. Loops of thread make up the rings, tied around a drill bit, using two overhand knots, secured with CA glue.
The double loop is tied to the boom and secured with glue.
The boom is now connected to the main mast by tying off the parrel and trimming off the excess line after securing the knot with glue.
The main book lift line’s fall is rigged to two belaying pins. The first of many rope hanks to come were hung on the belaying pins.
The other end of the lift line is run to a chock on the boom, the up to a block below the crosstrees, then down to the aft end of the boom where it is hooked to the port side ring made earlier.
Here is the boat so far. Still lots of rigging left to do, even though the rigging omits several minor lines for simplicity.
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This is getting a beautifull little ship Kurt
Beautiful and inspiring as always. Please keep posting pictures from the book on rigging
And a question concerning cleating... When I crewed, I normally only wrapped the cleat on the downward side and then the upper and then cleated (unless that second way was upward and so would loop again to be cleating down). Is there a reason why they cleated with more wraps historically? I am only personally familiar with nylon ropes and stainless cleats!
M.
Yes, a simplified rig for the tiller is pending. The rig in Lennarth Petersson's book is suitable for a large vessel than the Halcon. Can you post pictures of your tiller rig>
No problem. The pictures are from Lennarth Petersson's book on ship rigging for fore-and aft rigged vessels. I belayed more than the usually amounts of wraps just to cover the pin a bit with thread. How many wraps used on this model has certainly not been consistent or authentic. As you know, one full bend followed by two figure eight wraps with a twist on the final turn to lock down the bitter end is sufficient to belay the line securely. On considering doing that again, it seems unnecessary especially since hanks of ropes will probably be hung on all the pins. Belaying should be easy to let go as well as fast to secure the line to the pin.Beautiful and inspiring as always. Please keep posting pictures from the book on rigging
And a question concerning cleating... When I crewed, I normally only wrapped the cleat on the downward side and then the upper and then cleated (unless that second way was upward and so would loop again to be cleating down). Is there a reason why they cleated with more wraps historically? I am only personally familiar with nylon ropes and stainless cleats!
M.
Thanks. I guess from what you wrote that my idea for how to rig (shudder) is still intact.
I still am waiting on delivery of the tiny belaying pins from Dry-Dock Models. I can't BELIEVE how long it takes to receive something ordered from Canada (or Australia) when I can get something from China in a couple of days!
My kit came with sails. I was hoping you would be showing how to attach them to the ropes. But I think I agree with you that they should not even be attempted at this scale (at least by this old guy)!
M.
I still am waiting on delivery of the tiny belaying pins from Dry-Dock Models. I can't BELIEVE how long it takes to receive something ordered from Canada (or Australia) when I can get something from China in a couple of days!
My kit came with sails. I was hoping you would be showing how to attach them to the ropes. But I think I agree with you that they should not even be attempted at this scale (at least by this old guy)!
M.
Sorry, but this is not my model, I just gave it as an example. I have a folder with photographs of different models that I study whenever a question arises. Here are two more photos with the gear you are interested in.
Day 41
The starboard side main boom topping lift and the starboard main stay were rigged.
The end of the boom topping lift is hooked to the boom after the line was run from the belaying point, through the chock on the boom, up to the block at the crosstree, then down here to the boom.
Both topping lifts for the boom were rigged to the same tension by tying the hook at the appropriate place on the line at the end.
A tackle for the starboard stay was assembled first, the hooked onto the deck ring forward of the fore mast.
The excess line from the tack was formed into a coil by wrapping in around the handle of one of my needle files, wetting it with PVA, slipped off the handle when tacky, smooshed flat and allowed to finish drying. After the tackle's hook was hooked to the eyebolt and the stay was rigged, the coil was glued to the deck with PVA.
The other end of the stay was tied around the main masthead, with tension matching the port main stay line.
The starboard side main boom topping lift and the starboard main stay were rigged.
The end of the boom topping lift is hooked to the boom after the line was run from the belaying point, through the chock on the boom, up to the block at the crosstree, then down here to the boom.
Both topping lifts for the boom were rigged to the same tension by tying the hook at the appropriate place on the line at the end.
A tackle for the starboard stay was assembled first, the hooked onto the deck ring forward of the fore mast.
The excess line from the tack was formed into a coil by wrapping in around the handle of one of my needle files, wetting it with PVA, slipped off the handle when tacky, smooshed flat and allowed to finish drying. After the tackle's hook was hooked to the eyebolt and the stay was rigged, the coil was glued to the deck with PVA.
The other end of the stay was tied around the main masthead, with tension matching the port main stay line.
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That's going to be really hard to rig at 1:100 scale.
Aww, come on man! You've got this!