Belle Poule 1780 by Donnie

Very clean and accurate work - Looking very good my friend

Refering the bars of the capstan:
You will see, when you have installed the guns at this area if it woul make snese to have the bars inside the capstan mounted, because usually the removed the guns next to the capstan, when they had the capstan in use. Maybe a nice detail to have a scratch bar-holder at the mast or so, like Jim showed in his post
 
Thank you all for your likes. I have now finished rigging the cannon haul blocks on the deck. Next will be the eyebolts on the Bulwarks. The Cannons are ready to go, just have a few more things to do before that happens.

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Thank you all for the kind words. They are really appreciated. It does help boost my confidence.

Well, I have about 56 of these blocks to make and install on the Bulwarks. These will be for the forward Cannon Hauls. The extra line is the rigging length that will run from the pulley at the bulwark to the pulley at the cannon, then will terminate on some hooks located on the cannon rear. Once I have one done, I will show a final typical install. These are quite tiny.

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So, I thought I would attempt to show my method step-by-step of how I am doing this (from the last post). I am not endorsing this as this is the way to do this, as we all know there are many ways to rig things, but this is the only way I found for this application. What are these for? The eye bolts will attach to the Bulwarks. The pulley already has the haul line attached. The tweezers are mounted in a vise.

So, here we go. I am using two sizes of line, .3mm and .4mm and a 3mm block pear.


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Donnie said:
So, I thought I would attempt to show my method step-by-step of how I am doing this (from the last post). I am not endorsing this as this is the way to do this, as we all know there are many ways to rig things, but this is the only way I found for this application. What are these for? The eye bolts will attach to the Bulwarks. The pulley already has the haul line attached. The tweezers are mounted in a vise.

So, here we go. I am using two sizes of line, .3mm and .4mm and a 3mm block pear.

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Dear Donnie
Very nice and accurate work, thanks for the photos and the detailed explanation, it will help us all a lot :) Thumbsup
 
Latest - got one done. About an hour's work. The extra line will be coiled up. Also forgot about the Quoin.

EDIT: NOTE MARCH 5, 2023:
Please take note to be very mindful of the location of the eyebolts spacing to the Cannon Port Opening. If the Eye Bolts are spaced too far from the Cannon Port Openings, then they will be IN THE WAY of the Knees. Even though this is showing the MID SECTION of the ship with the VERTICAL scribed markings, there are NO markings at the fore and aft ship.

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I think that looks superb, Donnie. Can you still do something about the quoin?
 
Can you still do something about the quoin?
Yes, Heinrich. The Quoin comes in the kit. It is easy. The Barrells (do swivel) and will lift up and put one in.
 
Thank you all again.

Latest:
I will have to cheat - the coils will have to be made separately and positioned accordingly and the end of the "terminated" lines. The method I have used in the past is not working well at this time.

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Donnie said:
I think my end results are fairly close enough, but I should have been more careful !!!


Note: it is a good idea to put together one port frame first and then see if the measurements are correct. However, in my defense, I want to say this: CAD Drawings for ships are in 2D and just can not take into consideration CURVES. So, when the drawing is transferred to the CNC machine, this is where things get off - BUT, I could be wrong - don't take my word for it - just be mindful of the parts.

Yes,
This means that I got a little ahead of myself. Again, not being careful - a little aggravated at me -- However, in going back to measure the ports, I am off by about .5 to .6 mm in height (port height a little too tall) while some are almost dead on as far as the height of the port. All of the widths are very good and right on. So, these images show one particular example. Whew - I guess not too bad for taking the kit pieces at face value and not measuring them. But again, who knows.

So, this means that according to the kit, all of the C and D parts should have had a little (about .5mm) removed from the heights. However, your experience might differ from mine. Overall, I am not going to worry much about .5mm

The Camera angle makes the gun port (top right image) looks warped. Not sure how that happened, but that camera shot is not good.

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Hi Donnie,
I wish I had seen your build log before I cut my gunports out. I trusted the template drawings to be correct since there's no mention otherwise in the English instruction book. Now all of my gunports are framed and planked over. I thought it was weird that the sill parts didn't fit the openings, and the thought never occurred to me that the templates were showing the finished opening size, so I cut my sill parts down to fit the opening. Too late now to fix it. The only solution I can come up with is to cut them to the proper size which would remove the sill parts completely. That would expose the end grain of the frames at least on the bottom. I could paint the sills red like seen on most ships anyway but then I'd have to paint the inner bulwarks red as well. It's a dilemma.

My biggest concern now is whether the cannons are going to fit the openings when I get the deck installed and planked. I guess time will tell on that one, but I'm hoping they will.

I'm finding your build log to be very helpful on things I haven't yet done. I'm far behind you in my construction, fortunately for me. I did the steps up to the upper planking on one side of the model, then put the model aside for some time. I've just now gotten back into it. I guess I could fix the gunports on the unplanked side which would require making the sills from scratch, but I'm not sure how I'd fix the already planked side. That's one I'm gonna have to think about before I move on.

Take care,

Bob Hunt
 
lauckstreet said:
Hi Donnie,
I wish I had seen your build log before I cut my gunports out. I trusted the template drawings to be correct since there's no mention otherwise in the English instruction book. Now all of my gunports are framed and planked over. I thought it was weird that the sill parts didn't fit the openings, and the thought never occurred to me that the templates were showing the finished opening size, so I cut my sill parts down to fit the opening. Too late now to fix it. The only solution I can come up with is to cut them to the proper size which would remove the sill parts completely. That would expose the end grain of the frames at least on the bottom. I could paint the sills red like seen on most ships anyway but then I'd have to paint the inner bulwarks red as well. It's a dilemma.

My biggest concern now is whether the cannons are going to fit the openings when I get the deck installed and planked. I guess time will tell on that one, but I'm hoping they will.

I'm finding your build log to be very helpful on things I haven't yet done. I'm far behind you in my construction, fortunately for me. I did the steps up to the upper planking on one side of the model, then put the model aside for some time. I've just now gotten back into it. I guess I could fix the gunports on the unplanked side which would require making the sills from scratch, but I'm not sure how I'd fix the already planked side. That's one I'm gonna have to think about before I move on.

Take care,

Bob Hunt
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Hi Bob. It is great to see you back here!
 
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