For now, the drill works too.
Le Rochefort build log by OlivierF
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I have the Luthiers friend thickesser for the drill press. Works great.
Have you decided on Hahn or the normal build method ? If I didn’t have all my frames built I might have gone back and built them the regular way but I do want to see how the Hahn method works out.
www.stewmac.com
Have you decided on Hahn or the normal build method ? If I didn’t have all my frames built I might have gone back and built them the regular way but I do want to see how the Hahn method works out.
Luthier's Friend Sanding Station - StewMac
Thickness-sand small parts quickly with your drill press and the Luthier's Friend Sanding Station.
Thanks Tony. The Luthier’s Friend kind of looks like a commercial version of the picture I posted. I may have to experiment some as there is no way I’m spending close to $300 for it. For that price I’m nearly to Byrnes Thickness Sander.I have the Luthiers friend thickesser for the drill press. Works great.
Have you decided on Hahn or the normal build method ? If I didn’t have all my frames built I might have gone back and built them the regular way but I do want to see how the Hahn method works out.
Luthier's Friend Sanding Station - StewMac
Thickness-sand small parts quickly with your drill press and the Luthier's Friend Sanding Station.
I’m vacillating on Hahn vs normal frame building. I certainly would do a modified Hahn method and not build upside down. I’m leaning toward Underhill’s method detailed in his book “Plank-On-Frame Models“ Volume 1. Which closely follows Hahn’s method (or the other way around as Underhill detailed his method post WW II and I don’t know when Hahn detailed his idea). but Underhill build his ship upright in a traditional “dry dock”.
Based on the frustration you seem to be experiencing and on my complete lack of knowledge I may try both methods…
Today I assembled the jig. I haven’t cut out the top yet as I’m working on getting the keel pieces milled. I played around with the milling machine to see what I could expect. For the moment, it’s a good thing I have lots of scrap to turn into kindling… there is a pretty big learning curve to getting anything to resemble success. Breathe deeply and put it aside for today. Tomorrow is another day.
Yes you can make a thicknesser easy enough you just need a long fence that you can move in and out from the drum. I’m doing that just building my frames Hahn style. It’ll work out in the end I’m only changing how the frames are attached to the keel. Everything else stays as per plan.
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I understand exactly what you mean, I have the same problem, also little experience with the milling machine, but people learn by doing. Fortunately, we have Tobias and other experienced builders who are very helpful here.
I’m practicing (using scrap wood) making the keel pieces and milling them to fit. I filled a bucket with what is now kindling for the fire in trying different methods to get things to fit. A sharp chisel was a bust because on some of the pieces the grain runs the wrong way and they wood just splinters out. Sanding blocks and chisels worked a bit better but keeping the scarf joints level and plumb was a problem. After adding more to the kindling bucket I think I’m getting the hang of the mill. The practice keel seems to be coming together. A successful day all in all… time to read (and re-read) more of the monograph and Adrian’s book while watching it snow.
I am scratching my head on how best to cut the mortise in the keel for the stern post. The tenon is not an issue and drilling out the mortise is also pretty straight forward but I don’t have any chisels small enough to square up the mortise. Can anyone lend their expertise on how to get or make an appropriate sized tool for mortising?
I am scratching my head on how best to cut the mortise in the keel for the stern post. The tenon is not an issue and drilling out the mortise is also pretty straight forward but I don’t have any chisels small enough to square up the mortise. Can anyone lend their expertise on how to get or make an appropriate sized tool for mortising?
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You can simply mark the hole and then mill in the left and right lines, then you also mill away the intermediate piece that remains, you will not have a rectangular hole, but a curve on the ends. If you file the pen slightly round, it fits fine
Thanks Splinter, that is actually my fall-back plan. I’ve often built full size furniture with rounded mortise and tenon joints. I am interested to see if anyone does have a very fine chisel or method to make tiny rectangular mortises.
Hi Oliver, I did it exactly as Splitter explained. I mill it with the 1mm cutter so the curves are not so big.
Just my personal opinion, but keep in mind, that I am not working by myself on this model (for now)
Is it really necessary to make the mortise in the keel?
On the real ship, such thing were done to get a better and stronger connection between the two elements, but for our model, such spigot connection is not really necessary, a good glue connection without the mortise will work.
And later on nowbody will see it - only the horizontal joint will be visible - just my two cents
Don't know why the scarfs need to be milled. If you're cutting the parts out on a scroll saw or band saw cut just cut a bit large and file and sand to fit. Its simple. Don't make things more difficult than they are. A agree with Uwek on the mortice. ? I did it but I just made a rough, not close and not tight mortice and tenon so the joint is a bit stronger. Looking back that mortice isn't really needed at all.
Thanks Uwek. I actually used your suggestion a took out the tenon on the stern. Much easier to work with the assembly without it in the way. I don’t think it will compromise the alignment any… we’ll see.
Thank You to Dave Stevens at The Lumberyard for sponsoring the wood for this project. Got the keel and frames lumber today and will start laying out the axial assembly tomorrow! Thanks @Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) I owe you a beer! Heck, I owe you a case! 
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Good morning, I wonder, building from scratch, with all the research it's a lot of study with costs, what's the point of making compromises on construction?. It's just my opinion, but it's important that the manufacturer likes it. Frank
Building from scratch doesn’t mean you have to precisely follow the exact process of the build. Primarily it’s about enjoying the process of learning the way to scratchbuild a wooden ship. Indeed I had to make a lot of compromises along the way so as to achieve a result that I would be happy with. One is never going to exactly replicate exactly how a wooden ship is assembled anyway. For me it’s the final ‘look’ achieved . I can live knowing there is a missing tenon in a mortise hole. I can live knowing that an expert on ship construction will see flaws in my model. But I know there are some people out there who will want everything to be as exact and precise as possible.
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Hello clogger, everything you say is too good but, I only expressed my opinion, in truth, do what you like which is not my problem
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Hello all, I think that there are details that you will never see and if one or the other modeller finds it more difficult to produce this, he can also leave it out. There are crazy people like me who put nails in the frames, starboard side will disappear completely under the floorboards and you will never see it again.
Frank your opinion is always much appreciated by me and yes I agree with your thought process (even if we don't always agree).
What I would like to say is that the way is the goal and if the result is right everything is okay.
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Frank your opinion is always much appreciated by me and yes I agree with your thought process (even if we don't always agree).
What I would like to say is that the way is the goal and if the result is right everything is okay.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Hello Tobia, as I have already answered, my thought is entirely personal, I do not allow myself to judge and criticize the work of the model makers, Thanks for your observation. Since it may give rise to some misunderstandings, I will avoid any intervention in the future.FrankHello all, I think that there are details that you will never see and if one or the other modeller finds it more difficult to produce this, he can also leave it out. There are crazy people like me who put nails in the frames, starboard side will disappear completely under the floorboards and you will never see it again.
Frank your opinion is always much appreciated by me and yes I agree with your thought process (even if we don't always agree).
What I would like to say is that the way is the goal and if the result is right everything is okay.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Did you get cherry wood ? Looks like it.