Le Rochefort build log by OlivierF

TO ALL THE GROUP BUILDERS WISH THIS CAME OUT 4 YEARS AGO. MY WORST BUILDS FOR MANY REASONS ALL MY FAULT. TWO THINGS THAT ARE ESENTIAL IS A GOOD MILL WITH GOOD Z AXIS THAT IS ABSOLUTLY ESSENTIAL AND A JIG CAN NOT DO IT WITHOUT A JIG JUST FROM ME. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
 
Well, I don't have a mill. I think I will get along fine. I'll just have to use a little more creativity and take a little more time. Somewhere down the road I do plan to get a mill. :)

Bill
 
Hi Oliver I made it 28cm x 65cm
Well, I don't have a mill. I think I will get along fine. I'll just have to use a little more creativity and take a little more time. Somewhere down the road I do plan to get a mill. :)

Bill
A mill is certainly not necessary as proven by many ship modelers of old. I’ve been read Harold Underhill’s book (Plank-On-Frame Models) where he built 1/96 scale model of the brigantine Leon on a card table with a fret saw a couple of chisels and “a full range of wading files.” as I have to keep telling myself, building these models is a process not an event. Take the time and enjoy the process. ✌️
 
A mill is certainly not necessary as proven by many ship modelers of old. I’ve been read Harold Underhill’s book (Plank-On-Frame Models) where he built 1/96 scale model of the brigantine Leon on a card table with a fret saw a couple of chisels and “a full range of wading files.” as I have to keep telling myself, building these models is a process not an event. Take the time and enjoy the process. ✌️
Pardon my ignorance but what are "wading files?"
 
I like these building yards with the channels too. I’d think it just needs to be bigger than the biggest ship you’ll build. I would like to know though if you’re limited to how small a ship will work if the hull is too far away from the channels ?
 
I haven’t received my wood yet but it’s on its way (Thanks Dave - The Lumberyard) but I had a piece of scrap cherry that I re-sawed and planed down to 6.95mm. I laid out the axial components and then cut them out on the scroll saw. Even with a slow feed rate they came out pretty rough. This is only a learning trial so we’ll see. Once All the pieces were cut out I’ve started sanding the straight and outer curves on the disc sander. I still need to cobble together a stationary spindle sander for the inside curves. I’ll send pictures with what I come up with unless someone has already done something so I don’t have to reinvent the wheel.
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I did learn something while sanding… it’s imperative to keep the pieces at 90° to the sanding disc! Another learning curve for me. I think I’ll try double stick tape to a known flat and square piece of wood and see if that helps. I was able to rescue the pieces using a small low angle plane that I have. Not great but it works. Again I may have to try the double stick tape or make a shooting board. So many new tricks to learn.

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to be continued…
 
Good morning Oliver the principle with the drill is quite good and it is a solution.
However, there are three small disadvantages:
- The bearings of the drill are not designed to withstand lateral pressure for a long time.
- You have no up and down movement, so you only have a certain area on the sandpaper that wears out quickly. And you get grooves in the wood.
- The speed is missing

However, if nothing else is available, the drill will do it too.
 
Good morning Oliver the principle with the drill is quite good and it is a solution.
However, there are three small disadvantages:
- The bearings of the drill are not designed to withstand lateral pressure for a long time.
- You have no up and down movement, so you only have a certain area on the sandpaper that wears out quickly. And you get grooves in the wood.
- The speed is missing

However, if nothing else is available, the drill will do it too.
Thanks Tobias. You make good points. I was looking for model size options to full size tools. I do have a Rigid spindle sander with a 1/2” drum. I’ll try that but it seems like overkill. Kind of like “cutting butter with a butcher knife”.
 
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