Cutty Sark Semi Kit 1/40 Prototype

I have started to cut the detail parts today.
Deckhouse carcasses cut and assembled, in 30 mins.
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The Main Stay lugs are in but not glued.
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The knightheads are machined, note slot on back for Forestay lugs which get pinned through the knightheads.
The knightheads have a few complex bevels to be shaped and it's made of 2 parts like the real thing, in the ship the fore and aft halves are sandwiched either side of the keel plate which extends up the back of the apron and upwards, another big fault with kits is the knightheads are shown in line with bow or rabbet, they are not, they are aft.
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Here the plate can be seen on the back of the apron and the parts go either side. note the forestay lugs
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Here the Forward side of the knightheads is in place and the plate is seen with the aft side removed exposing the lugs.
The bent over flange on the plate does not go all the way up and can be seen down just above the foam where you can see the pin heads seen in other shots.
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In the interest of showing the placement in relation to the stem for other modellers here is a good profile, again the forward side is on but not the back.
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Bryian said:
Hello Richard, how difficult would it be to build the Thermopylae from the hull structure?
Click to expand...
You could not convert the model as her lines are totally different but not hard to make not difficult at all, probably easier as she had wood bulwarks, but as far as I know the only plans that exist are original lines and midship, I have these from Lloyds but no reliable rigging or GA
But yes easy.

Thermopylae (1868) | Royal Museums Greenwich

www.rmg.co.uk www.rmg.co.uk
 
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Thinking about it the first thing I would ask if I was doing her is how often do the frame heads come up to form the bulwarks.
i would guess its the web frame locations so the same as CS frames on the model more or less.
That would define the frames for the hull, I would then make the frame as I did in Cutty Sark with 2 exceptions. I would machine a notch into which the wood frame heads gets glued so they are part of the frame and i would build upside down so extend the frames to a board inside the bulwarks.
aside from that its the same deal.
Depending on scale I would maybe make a full centre keel part and have everything below the tween solid frames like most kits.
Not a fan of fake rabbets so would have all the stem and keel parts glued onto either side of the keel part and have the edge parts of the stem and false keel full width to hide the ply
 
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If anyone has a photo of Cutty Sarks deck taken from the rigging looking down can I have a copy please, I am trying to verify the curve in her Fife rails.
I have already check 4k drone footage
 
After going through rigging climb footage I got what I need but if anything better and more top down is around please share.
I did not measure the curve on all and assumed they were all the same but they are not.
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Decks glued down, Titebond on the beams and CA on the notches to get immediate hold down as it's hard to clamp.
the frame notches and waterways are now sealed and primed ready for rubbing down, this way the sheerplate which stands proud will have a nice clean crisp corner.
This is in case I don't do the cement filled waterway and leave it exposed.
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The counter unit is also glued on now.
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Thanks Frank
A couple there I have not seen before, the one looking up through both main hatches is interesting.
 
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