Willie Bennett Skipjack circa '30s build log- warts and all

Joined
Mar 17, 2021
Messages
286
Points
238

Location
San Diego, CA
Hello Members,

I've decided that my next model is going to be of the Skipjack Willie Bennett. The kit is by Model Shipways. This is my first build log, so please be gentle. Ah, everyone is super supportive here, I'm not worried.

A little about my experience with the hobby thus far. My first model was the Niagara from Model Shipways. I did some surprisingly nice work here and there, but I was in over my head. I tried another model of the same caliber but that never got to the finish line either. Along the way I learned a lot, and accumulated a lot of do-dads and funky tools, etc... I put the hobby down for about 8 years. I got rid a lot of my stuff and considered giving Niagara a fireship burial at sea.

During COVID, I became more interested and decided to start again. I ordered the Gunboat Philadelphia. Not super hard and I was doing a nice job, even learned how to splice rope to make some great stropped blocks (the trick is beeswax). But I had a disagreement with a can of stain and that was that. I wasn't thinking far enough ahead on the build, rookie mistake. I finally decided I needed to back up and start from the start.
1684680525425.png
(Blocks to rig the guns on Gunboat Philadelphia. I made SO many hooks to get the shape and size right (literally months) and taught myself a full-sized short splice and then worked forever on doing it at scale, giving up many times. I still have my first successful splice I made before making a looped splice and plan to keep it in a place of honor. The blocks are 9mm)

I decided to build the set of boats in the Model Shipwright's series, David Antscherl's tutorial series from Model Shipways. With the extra detail and smaller scope, I was able to make some pretty fantastic model (IMHO). One advantage -besides Mr. Antscherl's detailed instructions- were all the pre-cut parts. I'll get back to that. I'm also competent with an airbrush, which helps a lot.
1684677815895.png
(Grand Banks Dory from MS. I turned those lobster trap buoys out of birch, much to the detriment of my patience and sanity)

So I considered a lot of boats/ships I could build. I don't think I'm ready for a tall ship quite yet. Of the successful series, I had built 2 out of 3 work boats. American work boats. The dory and Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack were both well documented in the 30's-50's by Howard Chapelle. Plans for the Lobster Smack are available from the Smithsonian for $10 a sheet, and, of course, I got it. I bought a copy of "American Small Sailing Craft" by Howard Chapelle (WW Norton & Co., 1951), cheaply online from a used book site and I was hooked on the small American workboats. Along the way I met the bateau (p 80) and the skipjack (p 323). I remembered that MS had a skipjack kit and decided since I was probably going to need a kit for my next build, I could do a bit of research on the type and maybe even the ship's namesake.

I was really in luck on reading material. I backed up a bit and got another great book on the cheap, Chappelle's "Boatbuilding" ( WW Norton & Co., originally 1941). I learned the major construction differences amongst classes of craft and studied the V-Bottom construction carefully. I downloaded the instructions for MS's Willie Bennett and decided I would get my money's worth in building a model like it was built at scale, an early achievement in my hobby career, even if most of the authentic detail would be hidden. I was able to find Chapelle's plans for Willie Bennett at the Smithsonian, adding to the excitement. I found another book, "Notes on Chesapeake Bay Skipjacks" (from the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum), also by Chapelle. It's a bit dry on construction minutia, but has some fantastic info and accounts on the interesting, and sometimes seedy, past of skipjacks. There's a novel there, I just know it. Finally, to better visualize what I was going to build, I found "Chesapeake Sailing Craft: Recollections of Robert H. Burgess" (Tidewaters Publishers, original 1975, expanded version 2005). This guy was in love with everything that floated in Chesapeake Bay and took some loving photographs of skipjacks. I was set.

I got my model during all my reading. When I opened up the box, I realized that this was going to be much more challenging than I thought. It was mostly strips, a few narrow sheets, and dowels. There was one laser cut sheet with the parts to build up the keelson. And that cut sheet was not in the kit when it was originally released in 1995, the only update i could find. I had asked for building as per original construction techniques and, with a few cheats here and there, I got it.

I am really excited about enjoying building this model and having Willie Bennett on my shelf someday. It's got everything: lots of wood fabrication, plenty of soldering and metal work, needs to be airbrushed for best effect, the chance to build internally metal stropped blocks, etc.. I've already reached out on this forum to clarify some details before I started and got some great advice and pictures. I titled this build "warts and all". I see so many fantastic models on this sight that magically were perfect in between steps. I'll try to be honest about snags and areas of confusion without trying to draw to much attention to the flaws that i will carry through. I have to believe that areas I struglle with are spots where either people have advice or others have stumbled as well.

So, thanks for your interest and buckle up.
 
The first important step is a building board and there is a nice template in the plans. I went down to Kinko's to get large format copies and scanned in the images to a .pdf for use later (fair use: solely in the construction of my model, not for distribution). I found a scrap of MDF and some left over pine to make "legs" for the board to be easier to use and glued the cut out template using some sprayed rubber cement.
1684681589025.png
Building Board

Note the pre-cut moulds to the right. I was wrong earlier, the laser cut moulds are an update from the original as well and also includes the transom. You can just cut them out rather than building from components. I guess no one likes spending all there time building the jigs.

I carefully measured all the moulds and found that the forward most one was short vertically by 3/32". Fortunately, the sheet was 3/32" and I glued some scrap to the bottom of the mould. Seems like minutia, but I want to get this thing right.
1684681964798.png
Mould 2 with a 3/32" spacer at the bottom to meet the dimensions on the plan

Next, the moulds were glued to the board carefully with plenty of pieces to keep them perpendicular to the board, on the centerline, and parallel to the lines on the template.
1684682148252.png
Gluing moulds onto building board. Lots of machine blocks and squares. Using the transom for a shim, shame on me.

Sorry if this is a bit basic, but I'm anticipating others that are at the same skill level as me will be here for moral support.
 
After David Antscherl's model kits, it seems I have become addicted to laser cut parts. So much so, I plan to make as many as possible for this model. I bought a used laser cutter at a good price from a coworker who had been overly ambitious about a hobby his three kids allowed no time for. I mentioned I had scanned in the plans. I very carefully drew many of the parts that lent themselves to laser cutting using the plans I had scanned in using Illustrator.
1684682749879.png1684682808971.png
Vector paths drawn for rudder and center board using iIllustrator. Plans are copyright of Model Shipways.

I used Lightburn to run the laser cutter. My initial run cut everything at about 75% scale. If I knew exactly what scale, I would have considered the smaller build :). It seemed insurmountable but I changed the file format and got what I wanted. I cut a 1/8" and 1/16" sheet. I re-cut the Keelson because I had the material and wanted the practice (and my first glue-up with the original parts kind of sucked).
1684683086819.png
Laser Cut 1/8" sheet. You don't need a laser cutter for this model, but it's kind of fun. Not much of a time savings once you figure out how much time you put into it, but the results are nice and crisp.
1684683196400.png
Another picture of the hard won 1/8" cut sheet

Below is a picture of the 1/16" sheet. Note the previously cut smaller parts cut below on the first half of the sheet.

1684683247989.png
 
Whatever happened to the double edged razor blade that you broke in half and snapped the end off to make a point? Then you used the "blade"to cut the parts out of a printed sheet of wood for making the model. No hobby knives back then. To this day the tip of my right index finger feels no pain from using those razor blades. That was 70 years ago. Laser cutting is for wusses. Ha! But ya, I like the laser cut stuff too. No wonder the kits cost $500 anymore.
 
Whatever happened to the double edged razor blade that you broke in half and snapped the end off to make a point? Then you used the "blade"to cut the parts out of a printed sheet of wood for making the model. No hobby knives back then. To this day the tip of my right index finger feels no pain from using those razor blades. That was 70 years ago. Laser cutting is for wusses. Ha! But ya, I like the laser cut stuff too. No wonder the kits cost $500 anymore.
I don't know man. I'm keeping the fingers. But don't forget the good laser goggles, that 10W laser isn't messing around. Goggles are specific to wavlength ranges, so make sure you have the right pair.
 
1684764762043.pngWart Alert!
It looks like I was wrong about mould 2, the forward most mould. The precut piece was fine, even if it differs from the plans a bit. If you use the plans vertical height, the keel assembly doesn't reach down to the board. I wanted to shave down the template but then the template would be all wrong. I used a whole lot of isopropanol to loosen up the glue and ended up tearing up most of the pattern underneath. In the end, I think I left myself enough pattern to get the template placement right.
1684765458044.png
Repair to the jig, removing the shim and supports to the first mould and then reattaching.

Additional wart: I thought I used MDF for the board and found a piece of poplar underneath the pattern. I guess I glued it up a while ago. Warts and all, right?
 
1684764762043-png.375813
Wart!
Ok, big wart. I was putting together the keel assembly and my brother called. I put in my airpods and continued work on my keel assembly and really screwed it up. I cut the rabbet (fine, but bitter I didn't just shrink the outer layers of the built up keelson a 1/16 all across the bottom for a precut rabbet). Then I applied the skeg and sternpost. It looked amazingly good. Problem is the transom was supposed to be in there. I had already installed the foregripe and skeg battens, so a lot had to come back off. There was no way to remove the skeg without peeling a little of the rabbet of, since it was undercut here and there cutting it. What a mess. Good thing I keep a lot of isopropanol.
1684766273781.png
Water/isopropanol mixture struggling to remove skeg in one piece.Ultimately some of the keelson did peel off

I've been thinking about it. I ended up gluing up most of my 1/8" sheet incorrectly and the keelson is damaged. Do I go back and monkey with what I have? I mean, some ingenuity, scrap shavings, glue, and filler can go a long way. Or do I cut another sheet, especially after modifying for the rabbet? We'll have to see.
 
Inner Stem
Just a heads up. The inner stem is a little tricky. It has two different angle cuts at each end, 51 and 55 degrees. I don't remember which side was which, but it's easy to miss this. I got it wrong the first time but added a little material and sanded it with a miter and it looks pretty slick. I even remembered to mark it with the cutoff line. This worked out well. I glued it onto the keelson with 3/32" built up underneath to position properly. I might give up on my current keelson but this part took a lot of effort and looks great: no redo on this part.
 
Ok, so I did cut another 1/8" sheet with the laser. The deciding factor was the undercut rabbet that made the mating to the skeg peel off despite lots of isopropanol/water to soften up the glue. Before I cut the sheet, I went back and trimmed off 1/16" of the bottom part of the outer pieces for the keelson from the path. Doing this leads to a precut rabbet that just needs to be beveled.



I also cut a notch in the center piece of the keel where the mortise should be. A notch is obviously easier than a mortise. In the final lamination, it looks a little oblong, I could have done better in marking up the cut than eyeballing it from the plans sheet. The important thing is that it is the right place on the keelson.
View attachment 376093
A notch cut into the center laminate sheet for the keelson to affect a mortise in the full build up. Seen here is the notch cut then the first side piece laminated to the center piece.

1684937918644.png
 
I finally completed the keel assembly on the building board. It's only like page 2 of the instructions in the book, I've got a long road ahead, which is kind of the idea.
1685053969143.png
Completed keel assembly on the board.
Amazingly, the transom is on nice and straight.

I wanted to acknowledge my apprentices, instrumental to progress. They didn't take off with and chew too many dropped parts.
1685054129490.png
 
Gluing on the chine logs. The pieces are 3/32"x3/16". I mention it because it's not in the instructions and difficult to find on the plans.
1685054364968.png

I started on the sides next. My laser cutter isn't big enough for those pieces but they aren't too hard. They will be shaped post cut quite a bit, so not quite hit the broadside of a barn, but toss the horseshoe in the pit. To start the process, the chine logs had to be settled into the moulds, which isn't easy. I thought about a drop of glue but in the end clamped them down a bit with some shaped scrapped down and pinch clamps. It actually worked pretty well.
1685054617206.png
1685054668510.png
 
I cut the sides, clamped them on the side, set the battens, cut to the sheer, and did some sanding. I think they look ok but I don't think you want to see how the sausage is made, lots of finesse, such as it is.
 
Hi Glenn:
Deja Vu! Several weeks ago I posted some completed photos of my Willie J. Bennett Skipjack effort on this website. It was an excellent 6 month long building effort that dramatically improved my modeling skill level in several different areas. In making the brass dredge baskets, the "A" frame over the winch, the yawl boat davit over and aft of the transom, and a few of the brass fittings for the rigging, I learned that you need to do it with
silver solder, silver flux and a small hand held butane torch in order to control the delicate soldering process. An electric soldering iron and the more typical and less expensive plumbers acid core solder is NOT the way to go! But you've got plenty of time before you get to this phase of what is in my opinion an excellent first step up and into an "Intermediate" level modeling effort. Another challenge for me was the less than complex amount of rigging. If I can make one other helpful suggestion, I would highly recommend not only reading and re-reading the 56 page instruction manual, but also studying and re-studying the excellent plans that are provided with the Model Shipways kit that has been on the market sine 1981. What is not written in the instruction book can clearly be discovered on the plans, and vice versa, if you just take the time to carefully look, read and study!
I used to live in St. Michaels, MD (1985--1990) and enjoyed seeing several in-water examples of a variety of workboats at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum including a Skipjack. I started out building a Chesapeake Bay "Buyboat", and a "Hooper Island Draketail", which were good entry level models to begin the hobby with. Good luck with your Skipjack building effort, as I think you'll find it to be a very satisfying effort. If you have any questions that I can possibly help you with please let me know.
WORKBOATS--Bert Shoemaker Aiken, SC


DSCN0007 (1).JPG

DSCN0011 (2).JPG

DSCN0024 (3).JPG
 
Hi Bert,
Thanks for the encouragement and heads up. I’m not sure 6 months is going to be enough for me :) . I’ll try my hand at silver solder on some scraps around the place. I’ve been watching lots of YouTube on jewelry making and someone in the forum suggested an excellent book on the topic. Looks like this model is where I learn hands on.
Your model is fantastic! Nicely done, thanks for sharing. I have something to aspire to.
Regards,
Glenn
 
Back
Top