Syren 1803 (Model Shipways) 1:64, by Will @ Trilogy

Thanks Digger. Glue sticks are the sticks that kids use in school to glue paper together. Google Elmers disappearing glue sticks to get a link. I’m not sure how to add a link in SOS.
 
Thanks Digger. Glue sticks are the sticks that kids use in school to glue paper together. Google Elmers disappearing glue sticks to get a link. I’m not sure how to add a link in SOS.
Rather remarkably we seem to have that in Australia, providing that "Elmer's Goes On Purple Glue Stick" is the same thing.
 
Will, your Syren Brig looks great, I am currently building an English brig called Speedy that looks quite similar. I shall follow your log with interest and great respect.
Well done, JJ
 
I was asked how I made gun rope coils so I went back in my notes and I’ll try to explain.
There are many ways to make the coils but min was to rig the leaving a long lead to coil. I made a jig that I had seen another modeler us. I made some modifications that I’ll try to explain below the picture C781F3A2-A4CC-430A-8E69-D4FAF70AD959.jpeg

What I did was acutely a length of birch dowel about 3/8” thick glued a piece of felt underneath. Using circular hole saw cut a 1/4” thick plastic with a hole a little larger than the pin. Drilled shallow hole in dowel for pin to ride in. Cut the pins tip off. To make coil at the end of rope trap the end of the rope in the pin hole with the pin. Before trapping the rope lightly dampen with diluted white glue. Wind the rope up lift off the plastic and slide the coil to the deck.
Hope this helps let me know if you need more info.
 
Oh yeh I was asked about rigging the gun tackle. I made a mock-up of the gun rigging off the deck and rigged the blocks and tackle in the jig. It was just a matter of hooking block to rings and pull everything tight
 
I've completed the topmast shrouds and the ratlines. This step comprised several parts needing to be added prior to the ratline. Adding the sheer poles just above the deadeyes and the staves in position below the topmast trees. Stave location was determined from the rigging drawings in the kit. The location of the staves is important as the topgallant shrouds reeve through the topmast trees and lash to the topmast shrouds at the staves. Next the ratlines added the same as the lower shrouds. The catharpins were added after the ratlines and are lashed to the staves. To make the catharpins two lengths of .012 line were stretched between two vises and served with .004 line. To serve the lines the .004 line was tightly wrapped around the lines held between the vises.

Picture of completed topmast shrouds, ratlines and catherpin
tempImageiqASTr.png



Picture of catherpin in red circle
DAD7F456-5DE4-4FC1-A4BA-452FF3FAD03D_1_201_a.jpeg

The last thing todo was the double blocks (violin blocks) that are used for lifting the yard and top yard.
tempImageGgM6ER.png
I bought this 6mm violin blocks from Dry-Dock Models and the quality is fantastic. The zoomed picture is out of focus but at least you can see the detail. To get these between the shrouds above the staves was quite a challenge until I used a 26awg copper wire through the reeve holes as a handle.

D3F279D6-5B1B-479D-B874-90A3DF8EC988_1_201_a.jpeg

Picture with the double/violin blocks lashed to shrouds
tempImageJPxW2i.png

Not sure why this rotates but was taken 90 CCW. On to the back stays and fore stays.
 
I've completed the topmast shrouds and the ratlines. This step comprised several parts needing to be added prior to the ratline. Adding the sheer poles just above the deadeyes and the staves in position below the topmast trees. Stave location was determined from the rigging drawings in the kit. The location of the staves is important as the topgallant shrouds reeve through the topmast trees and lash to the topmast shrouds at the staves. Next the ratlines added the same as the lower shrouds. The catharpins were added after the ratlines and are lashed to the staves. To make the catharpins two lengths of .012 line were stretched between two vises and served with .004 line. To serve the lines the .004 line was tightly wrapped around the lines held between the vises.

Picture of completed topmast shrouds, ratlines and catherpin
View attachment 315533



Picture of catherpin in red circle
View attachment 315532

The last thing todo was the double blocks (violin blocks) that are used for lifting the yard and top yard.
View attachment 315535
I bought this 6mm violin blocks from Dry-Dock Models and the quality is fantastic. The zoomed picture is out of focus but at least you can see the detail. To get these between the shrouds above the staves was quite a challenge until I used a 26awg copper wire through the reeve holes as a handle.

View attachment 315542

Picture with the double/violin blocks lashed to shrouds
View attachment 315547

Not sure why this rotates but was taken 90 CCW. On to the back stays and fore stays.
Good morning Will. Attaching blocks, cleats etc to the stays is a mission for sure. You pulled this off - looking great. Cheers Grant
 
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