Prins Willem V.O.C 1651 from Corel.
- Thread starter JDS73
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That's big. The one I'm building is 0.73meter
27cm shorters than your ship
27cm shorters than your ship
My current build is 1:46.....BIG!
Corel is the only company that exclusively sells 1:100 model in almost all their models. It's nice if you build several of them for a collection because they are the same size, but Corel has standardized many of the parts, making the same guns, same selection of wood for materials, and in some cases same decorations in their models. This makes it necessary to scratch build or replace some parts to make the details accurate for each ship. The size also forces many of the small details to be omitted. I like their plans, but the instructions are scant. Corel assumes you know how to build and plank a wooden ship. I would say that in general Corel is good for intermediate builders. Corel does offer many ships that other builders do not, especially 17th century ones. Model companies tend to focus on 19th century vessels. Their wood is real quality, well cut and nice grain from what I've seen. It sure beats the heck out of the cheap basswood from Model Shipways and DeAgostini.
OcCre Nuestra Senora del Pilar.... Takes up the whole desktop and I and I am not close to installing the bowspirit.I hope that your model is not the HMS Titanic
Mini Update
I made the frames for the canonholes and painted them red. And I worked on the canonhols on the stern and made them in a nice square shape.
Up to the 2nd layer of wood.
For everyone: have a nice Christmas and a healthy 2022
I made the frames for the canonholes and painted them red. And I worked on the canonhols on the stern and made them in a nice square shape.
Up to the 2nd layer of wood.
For everyone: have a nice Christmas and a healthy 2022
I cannot thank you enough for this. I love these pictures. I purchased a Corel Prins Willem and when I saw the instructions, I was super disappointed (they are horrible). There was no way I could attempt building that ship with the instructions included. I seriously considered reselling it (probably at a loss). However, with these pictures and guidance I will attempt this sometime in md 2022. Have a Merry Christmas, Happy New Year and Happy Holidays season.
In this pictures you can see that the bow is curved. It's not 100% as it should bee but it's absolutely not straight. The shadow in the previous pictures made it look more bad than is it's in reality.
That's exactly wat I sed. It's not perfect.
But this is my 1st model on this level.
If you look on the same picture to the other side of the bow you can see the shape better. In the upper part and the lower part you marked.
The right side is exactly the same.
@Steef66
I keep it this way otherwise I have to rebuild the whole bow for 3mm.
I guise this is a learning spot for me.
And as I sed before the drawings never told me how to plank this ship besides a drawing from a completed planked ship.
The most I build for so far I took from the build of AdBrouwer and not from the drawings. Because they are still terrible.
I keep it this way otherwise I have to rebuild the whole bow for 3mm.
I guise this is a learning spot for me.
And as I sed before the drawings never told me how to plank this ship besides a drawing from a completed planked ship.
The most I build for so far I took from the build of AdBrouwer and not from the drawings. Because they are still terrible.
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Thank you so mutch..
This is a great compliment for me.It's not a perfect build but the other builders gives good advice to do it as it should be. I didn't use the drawings much myself but I'm using a building-logs from other builders from another forums. And this is my 1st model on this level. I have to start somewhere in the deep sea to get better
.Nowhere in the drawings I can find how to plank the bow. I did it from other pictures on the internet and building logs. But it was fun to search, try, fails and do it al over again.
It was a big learning process and a great experience.
I sed it before in a other forum. My builds don't have to be 100% historical correct.
In the 15th century there wasn't any drawings of ships at all. Builders of ships made there ships on there experience and nonage. So what is historical correct?
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Yikes! That bow! A rework is definitely needed. That hard bend at the bow to side transition simply has to be corrected or you will never be able to ignore it. At this early stage, de-planking and re-planking a section may be best way to fix this condition. Adding a bunch of filler forward and aft of the hard bend and faring it all in does not appear to be the best way to fix this because the forward most will area may cause the front of the bow to be too full and not have the "V" angle it needs to cut through the water, making the shape worse.
I suggest using balsa blocks formed by sanding in the bow to create the curves you need, and then plank them over. Take care that there are no hard bends or seams visible where the old planks end and the planks of the patched begin. Filler applied to flat areas to fill them it and sanded is the step after that. You will probably add filler and sand in three passes before you are happy with the final shape of the hull. The work for all this is WELL WORTH IT. This sort of thing is typical of the setbacks one sometimes faces making a wooden ship model. If you have the patience to fix problems like this, then your model will end up being a great model, not simply a mediocre one.
Core model of La Couronne at the same early stage you are at. Note the lack of hard bends in the bow to side transition, and the flat spots filled in with wood filler, which can be used to correct non-symmetry in the hull as well as fill flat spots. In this case, filler is used to generate a subtle reverse curve from the bow to the keel.
The finel hull planking. Any hard bends in the shape would be glaringly obvious at this stage, and very much harder to rework if needed.
I suggest using balsa blocks formed by sanding in the bow to create the curves you need, and then plank them over. Take care that there are no hard bends or seams visible where the old planks end and the planks of the patched begin. Filler applied to flat areas to fill them it and sanded is the step after that. You will probably add filler and sand in three passes before you are happy with the final shape of the hull. The work for all this is WELL WORTH IT. This sort of thing is typical of the setbacks one sometimes faces making a wooden ship model. If you have the patience to fix problems like this, then your model will end up being a great model, not simply a mediocre one.
Core model of La Couronne at the same early stage you are at. Note the lack of hard bends in the bow to side transition, and the flat spots filled in with wood filler, which can be used to correct non-symmetry in the hull as well as fill flat spots. In this case, filler is used to generate a subtle reverse curve from the bow to the keel.
The finel hull planking. Any hard bends in the shape would be glaringly obvious at this stage, and very much harder to rework if needed.
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I do not understand why Corel dint sed anything in there manual abouth the planking, Balsa wood of anything else.
If I wannabee a scratch builder I build from scratch. But I don't by a kit to figure out everting on my own but to build from manuals.
No planking instructions on a model that is verry different than other models .
They have beautifull models but there manuals are more then s*cks.
There are different levels of building in kits
One layer planking, two layers of planking. Alot or less lazercut. Hard rigging jobs, alot or less sanding. I build 3 models before but never this way. This isn't a specific level to build its just an horrible manual.
I'm angry because of my hard work and alot are complaining abouth the bow. And I know it's good advice from you guys. But I'm angry on Corel and not on the people who give me good advice.
I finish this schip in my own way in good or bad ways and give it my own artistic turn, but for this I never buy any model of Corel again.
If I wannabee a scratch builder I build from scratch. But I don't by a kit to figure out everting on my own but to build from manuals.
No planking instructions on a model that is verry different than other models .
They have beautifull models but there manuals are more then s*cks.
There are different levels of building in kits
One layer planking, two layers of planking. Alot or less lazercut. Hard rigging jobs, alot or less sanding. I build 3 models before but never this way. This isn't a specific level to build its just an horrible manual.
I'm angry because of my hard work and alot are complaining abouth the bow. And I know it's good advice from you guys. But I'm angry on Corel and not on the people who give me good advice.
I finish this schip in my own way in good or bad ways and give it my own artistic turn, but for this I never buy any model of Corel again.
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After Christmas I wil stop my updates for a cople of weeks because in gonna concentrate on my aibrush technics.
A friend of my is an airbrush specialist and pinstipper in the car industry and he is gonna give me some clinics and alot of stuff to practice. And alot of my hard mony I'll have to spend on paint. So I don't have the time (or mony to buy planks
{ joke} )for building of rebuilding the PW.
And maybe I stop my whole building log because I dont want to make you guys cry how horrible it's gonna be
A friend of my is an airbrush specialist and pinstipper in the car industry and he is gonna give me some clinics and alot of stuff to practice. And alot of my hard mony I'll have to spend on paint. So I don't have the time (or mony to buy planks
{ joke} )for building of rebuilding the PW.And maybe I stop my whole building log because I dont want to make you guys cry how horrible it's gonna be
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Hello Dirk. Please do not stop your build log - that would be a terrible shame. When we give advice or point out something that is not right, it is not to criticize - it is to point to something that you can be aware of in a future build. If all a forum does is to hand out compliments, then the very important factor of learning as we build is lost. Look at @Steef66's build log where he has redone all the shroud lines when it did not look correct; look at my build log of the Batavia/Haarlem where I had had to redo and still have to redo several items - it is all part of a learning process.
Your problem at the bow stems from the fact that you have not faired the bulkheads at the bow enough. No kit in the world will give you instructions on how much or how little to fair bulkheads - that is something that you can only discover by trial and error and by acquiring a "feel" for the lines of a hull. Have a look at my current build log of the Willem Barentsz. https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...-willem-barentsz-kolderstok-1-50.8662/page-10 I have included a section on how to fair a hull (as taught to me by @pietsan Piet Sanders). Also have a look at the section "Tips and Weetjes" on Modelbouwforum in which Piet covers hull fairing (afschuinen) and planking in detail.
With regards to the balsa filler pieces at the bow and stern - all kits differ - even Kolderstok (whom I regard as an outstanding manufacturer) differs between individual models of theirs. They supply Balsa on the Batavia and Willem Barentsz, but not on the Duyfken or 7P (in the latter's case a different method is used of forming the bow). Again on my WB, the filler pieces I have added between Bulkheads #1 and #2 are not in the kit instructions - it is something I have learnt from Piet. And so I can go on and on.
Building a model is not just a case of following an instruction manual - it is also a case of learning from others and developing your own knowledge and strengths as you go along. No one says it is an easy process - but it is a rewarding one. Building model ships has taught me many things - but the most valuable lessons it has taught me, are the ones about myself.
Your problem at the bow stems from the fact that you have not faired the bulkheads at the bow enough. No kit in the world will give you instructions on how much or how little to fair bulkheads - that is something that you can only discover by trial and error and by acquiring a "feel" for the lines of a hull. Have a look at my current build log of the Willem Barentsz. https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...-willem-barentsz-kolderstok-1-50.8662/page-10 I have included a section on how to fair a hull (as taught to me by @pietsan Piet Sanders). Also have a look at the section "Tips and Weetjes" on Modelbouwforum in which Piet covers hull fairing (afschuinen) and planking in detail.
With regards to the balsa filler pieces at the bow and stern - all kits differ - even Kolderstok (whom I regard as an outstanding manufacturer) differs between individual models of theirs. They supply Balsa on the Batavia and Willem Barentsz, but not on the Duyfken or 7P (in the latter's case a different method is used of forming the bow). Again on my WB, the filler pieces I have added between Bulkheads #1 and #2 are not in the kit instructions - it is something I have learnt from Piet. And so I can go on and on.
Building a model is not just a case of following an instruction manual - it is also a case of learning from others and developing your own knowledge and strengths as you go along. No one says it is an easy process - but it is a rewarding one. Building model ships has taught me many things - but the most valuable lessons it has taught me, are the ones about myself.
Hey Heinrich.
I'm not stopping the log for real it was just a bad joke. I'm just angry about corel for ther bad drawings. I know it's a learning process but taking the hole hull apart and replank the hole ship?
And I know that all of the people on the forum want to help me.
So I'm absolutely not angry about them.
In a couple of weeks I finished the airbrush clinics and can reset my shipbuilders mind. ( it a Christmas present from my best friend who is a artist in airbrushing) Then I can start with a fresch mindset. So the PW has to wait a little while before I smash it against the wall
( joke again).For all of you guys.. thanks for trying to help me.
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