From an older post on rigging sequence (saves me some typing):
There is a careful balance in choosing your assembly steps between ease of assembly and ease of installation. Some modelers do hang all the ropes for the standing and running rigging from the masts, but are very meticulous in labelling each line with tags. Doing it this way can turn into a tangled mess if you are not careful. Most people set the masts in place after installing all the blocks on the yards, and sometimes with the running rigging attached to the mast assemblies, and then rig the standing rigging with all the running rigging lines hanging out of the way until later.
It becomes difficult to tie the lines to the belaying points on the rails, knightheads, and belaying pin racks while keeping the lines at the proper tension. It is much easier to secure the bottom ends of each running rigging line to the belaying point, and tie the opposite end to where it attaches to a yard or stay up higher, and the tension you want is easily maintained.
The best way I know takes a LOT of planning ahead and labelling the running rigging lines with paper tags. before setting the masts, ensure all blocks are attached to the yards, and the yards are installed. Also, tie all the running rigging lines to their belaying points on the hull. Use some thread to temporarily hold these loose ropes in groups hanging over the side so they don't get tangled. Install the masts and yards, rig the standing rigging, then start running the running rigging ropes for lifts and ties to support yardarms, and cargo hoists up through the blocks to their tie off points on the yards/staylines/whatever. Then attach the sails and rig sheets, clewlines, bowlines, and other lines used to control the sails. Yes, the shrouds and ratlines will become and obstruction to accessing the deck, and there's no getting around that. Start rigging with the highest sails and work downward, which will allow you the most access to the deck and belaying points for a longer time in the process, since the courses make access even worse. I usually rig the sails on the bowsprit, then the foremast, mainmast, and mizzen mast in that order. because of the difficulty in rigging a lateen sail on the mizzen mast, you may rig that before you rig the main course so you have more access with your tools and fingers to the deck that way. Always rig brace lines for controlling the angle of the yardarms last, since they would get in the way if rigged earlier.
Note: If you are angling your yardarms at an angle other than perpendicular to the hull, you should use a length of thread to install temporary braces to hold the yardarms in position at the proper angle and you rig the running rigging, or the running rigging will not have the correct tension. I usually tie a length of thread to a yard arm and run it forward, tying the other end to a mast or top or whatever works, and tension it to provide the desired yard angle. Then install running rigging. That way, all the yard on a mast have the same angle from top to bottom, and there is no stress on the yardarms and consequently its corresponding lifts, ties, and parrel. You don't want to break anything.
No matter what order you use on the first ship, you will change your order slightly for the next one in order to avoid some of the difficulties in access to tie-off points and running the ropes through tops and between the tangle of lines as things get closer to the end. I use a length of wire with a narrow loop bent on one end to draw lines through the tops. It's an invaluable tool to fishing the lines through places you can no longer get your fingers, tweezers, or forceps into. May the gods of patience be with you, and may fortune ever be in your favor.
La Couronne with yards set for wind from the port quarter, as evidenced by the flags and pennant. Angling the yards and sails allows a better view of the deck from one side of the model, plus it adds realism. Some choose not to rig sails because it can block your view of the rigging and other features.
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