Live center chuck

Don Case

Don Case

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I'm about to start making masts, yards and booms. When I grab a dowel in the lathe and try to sand it the smaller ones deflect too much. I thought that if I had a Jacobs chuck with a live center and a Morse taper I would be able to grab both ends and be much more comfortable. I haven't been able to find such a thing on Google. Maybe I'm calling it the wrong thing or maybe there isn't such a thing. Can anyone help?
Thanks
 
I just grab a round or octagonal dowel into a hand drill chuck. Power it in my right hand and wrap a piece of #80 or 120 sandpaper around the dowel with my other hand. I do any tapering this way. I polish with a piece of 320 sandpaper.

Also I wrap the dowel end which is going into a hand drill chick with a few rounds of a masking tape. This is to prevent a wood damage and for better centering in case of octagonal dowel.
 
My hand drills (Ridgid) have kind of serrated teeth in the chuck and they leave big marks on the wood. I guess I could use overlength pieces.
 
Don Case said:
My hand drills (Ridgid) have kind of serrated teeth in the chuck and they leave big marks on the wood.
Click to expand...


Also I wrap the dowel end which is going into a hand drill chick with a few rounds of a masking tape. This is to prevent a wood damage and for better centering in case of octagonal dowel.
 
Hi Don,
Jacobs is a brand of drill chuck, I don't know if they make a live centre.

A live centre is a good idea here is a link to some low cost ones from Banggood.

au.banggood.com

MT2 0.02 Inch CNC Precision Steel Lathe Live Center Taper Tool Triple Bearing

Only US$20.61, buy best MT2 0.02 Inch CNC Precision Steel Lathe Live Center Taper Tool Triple Bearing sale online store at wholesale price.
au.banggood.com au.banggood.com

and some from Aliexpress.

https://campaign.aliexpress.com/wow/gcp/tesla-pc-new/index?UTABTest=aliabtest377151_530968&src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=19366939908&albag=&trgt=&crea=en1005003272212711&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en1005003272212711&gclid=CjwKCAjw0N6hBhAUEiwAXab-TX4GHW-AnT6-q1NojhKIKDsdkfiwJe2VklT8RZIh1wbBfb0N8ndp0RoC9KYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=5474c1dfd5a542d8bafad8c31f96434f-1681420436212-04679-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=5474c1dfd5a542d8bafad8c31f96434f-1681420436212-04679-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=490cb9a2305c4c6f91e9d07ef2b09aac&wh_weex=true&wx_navbar_hidden=true&wx_navbar_transparent=true&ignoreNavigationBar=true&wx_statusbar_hidden=true&bt_src=ppc_direct_lp&scenario=pcBridgePPC&productId=1005003272212711&OLP=1085100208_f_group2&o_s_id=1085100208

You just need to know what size Morse taper your lathe has.
Read the reviews before you buy, I don't know either brand and am not recommending either.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Closest thing I can think of is a bronze jaw tailstock chuck originally used for automotive generator/ starter motor armature work. Here's a quick video:
Despite what the video says, these are not rare at all and show up on ebay and old tool nerd boards frequently. I even have a spare in the basement... Probably too big for a Unimat or a Proxxon, but works just fine with an Atlas 618. Sleeve the end of your dowel with a metal tube and it might work- I have not tried this myself.
 
I taper masts and yards on a Jet lathe. I use a collet set that is hollow and lets me insert a dowel (must be <3/8" dia) as far as I want. I also use a 4-jaw Nova chuck and a Jacob's chuck from time to time. They all work well but longer pieces must be sanded/turned lightly. Not fast work at all. But on really thin or wobbly pieces, I use a steady rest midway along the dowel.Nuestra_708.jpgNuestra_707.jpgNuestra_706.jpgNuestra_743.jpgNuestra_742.jpg
 
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So in the armature chuck or the center that Phil is using the work spins inside the tailstock? If so I could just use different sizes of brass tubing in the tailstock. I would just have to make sure my stock fits the tubing. I can do that!!! without buying more stuff. Bonus!
 
Don Case said:
So in the armature chuck or the center that Phil is using the work spins inside the tailstock? If so I could just use different sizes of brass tubing in the tailstock. I would just have to make sure my stock fits the tubing. I can do that!!! without buying more stuff. Bonus!
Click to expand...
The live center in the tailstock has bearings and has a body that has a Morse #2 taper. So if I wanted ( and have done for drilling centered holes) I mount a Jacob's chuck in the tail stock and it too has a MT#2 taper.
 
Phil, I have a Jacobs chuck on a Morse taper but it doesn't freely rotate.

Jack, that's what I was looking for, then I could grab any size dowel by both ends and it would still spin freely.
 
I have a multi purpose set of live centres which includes two interchangeable negative cone centres. Installed into lathe tailstock it is very easy to use with the work supported by a rotating negative cone.

20230415_171947.jpg
 
Kevink said:
This is how i taper long pieces
Click to expand...
Thanks Kevin, I've watched all your videos a few times. Thank you for them. Unfortunately my lathe is a combo lathe/milling machine and there is no room for a steady rest as the cross feed doubles as a table for the mill. Here I'm using the mill. Sorry for the blurry pic.

DSC04750.JPG
 
i do have a chuck attachment that fits in the tailstock of the proxxon lathe, but it does not rotate. It's for drilling holes. I wonder if I could adapt it to rotate? hmmm
 
I am just now seeing this post - yes, the reason for the deflection is the dowel that you are turning is thin. In order to avoid this, you really need to have a "Steady Rest" mounted either 1/3 or 1/2 or 2/3 of the way. The Jaws will just touch the work piece and keep the dowel from deflecting. I don't remember seeing a post of what kind of Lathe you have. The bottom part of this slides our mounts to the "ways".

1681573854989.png
 
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