Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

dockattner said:
I think the magic happens when you dilute the Caseys and allow the burnishing to take more time. Again, still learning...
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Yep, I also use heavily diluted Brass Black (more water than Caseys), this way it works the best, it is a slow-curing process. However, I never used the same solution twice. It is a chemical reaction between the brass and Casey's so I thought the resulting solution was not good. Am I mistaken?
 
I love the arrow on your fixture. It's nice to have someone/something to tell you which way to go. ;) (Also overcomes any backlash error)

OBTW, very nice work on the rudder hinges!!
 
Jimsky said:
Yep, I also use heavily diluted Brass Black (more water than Caseys), this way it works the best, it is a slow-curing process. However, I never used the same solution twice. It is a chemical reaction between the brass and Casey's so I thought the resulting solution was not good. Am I mistaken?
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I read it somewhere and it seems to work fine. The same liquid has now been used maybe 10 times with little change in efficacy...
 
dockattner said:
Hi @trussben,

I re-read my response to you, and I fear I might have come across as dismissive of your very accurate/helpful/well-informed post. When I was building the well house I "over shaped" the part that merges with the shot locker. I had already invested quite a bit of time on that part and when I recognized that I would need to place the hinges in the wrong place I chose to just accept the mistake and carry on. I am not attempting to build the perfect TFFM swan class ship.

BUT: if I was trying to build the perfect TFFM swan class ship your post would have saved the day! So, THANK YOU for your keen attention to detail and feeling welcome to offer a suggestion for improving this build. I do rely on people like you who have far more experience and knowledge than I do to keep my project on track. While I won't be correcting this error, I have been correcting other mistakes pointed out by forum members. Keep the suggestions coming! And I apologize for the brevity of my original post.
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No Problem at all. I have made many mistakes and ommissions on my Pegasus swan class build.
 
dockattner said:
Hello Michael,

Q1: this is the Compound Table that comes with the Proxxon Mill - though I purchased a second one to also use with a small drill stand. It is designed to fit onto Proxxon machines/tools.

proxxon-us-shop.com

MICRO Compound Table KT 70

For precise milling, boring, drilling or grinding operations as well as positioning. The optimal attachment when working with the Drill Stand MB 140/S, the Bench Drill Machine TBM 115 or the Machine Vice MS 4. One set of step clamps and clamping accessories are included. Technical data:Table...
proxxon-us-shop.com

Q2: I did some initial shaping using a disc sander. The rest was done with files.

Q3: Casey's Brass Black

Q4: This one is more a work in progress for me. I am very familiar with the frustration of getting a powdery black layer that flakes off. My current approach is as follows (though I suspect it will change as I learn more). First, I thoroughly clean the parts (rotary tool, sandpaper, etc.) and then I drown the parts in white vinegar (30 - 60 minutes seems about right) and after this the parts must not be touched by fingers - only tweezers. Then I drown the part in Brass Black that has been quite diluted (not exactly sure of the formula - it is at least 50% water right now, maybe as much as 80%???) I use the same Brass Black over and over. In it's diluted state the blackening/burnishing takes a bit longer (maybe 60 seconds). Rinse off the part in running water and set on a paper towel to dry. I then wipe down the part using a soft cloth or Q-tip (there will be a fine powder on it) and assess. You can go back into the Brass Black if you want it darker. I think the magic happens when you dilute the Caseys and allow the burnishing to take more time. Again, still learning...
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Hi Paul,
I am starting to notice that every time I read your build updates, I find myself wanting to go and buy more equipment and tools.

I think maybe if I use the same tools as Paul, I too can make such beautiful models and parts. Then I realise that I need to buy your ability, which alas is not for sale.

Anyway, I will just have to be happy with some more tools.

Thanks for you detailed replies.

michael
 
dockattner said:
Next, I needed to drill holes for the bolts that would hold the straps to the rudder and the hull. To that end I made a little jig:

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I then used epoxy to add the pins to the pintles (I could have soldered these pins but that would have required a lower melting temperature solder (than I had used previously) and I doubted I could pull that off):

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That done, I burnished/blackened the parts and completed the rudder side of the transaction:

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And just in case you think this was a linear experience...I learned that brass can melt...and that it's possible to solder the pins you are using to hold pieces into place onto (inside) the parts you are soldering...

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I feel blessed that you would visit on occasion!
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Where did you get your bits for drilling the holes, Paul? The holes look very small. And what size nails did you use?
 
Chestcutter said:
Birchwood Casey’s is a brand of Brass blackening solution for firearms. It’s the blue bottle with white lid.
There are other brands available, but Casey’s seems to be popular and available.

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Thank you, I have this in stock. So next time when I have to blackening brass I give it a try to dilute the casey. Is there a special amount? 1 part on 100 for example?
 
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