I got my Unicorn (ZHL) Ropewalk up and running: here's my first impressions plus video.

rtwpsom2

rtwpsom2

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I just got this in the same day I got the Bonhomme Richard. The first thing I have to make clear is I have never done rope making and have only a rudimentary knowledge of it so far. That said I got it all assembled and running. I tried to lay the veneer but lost interest after a couple pieces, just not something I felt like spending time on, though I am sure it would have made a beautiful addition once glued, sanded, and varnished. During assembly I ran across two issues. I glued down the take up motor bracket too early, this was one contributing factor in not laying veneer. You have to lay the veneer first, then glue the bracket down on top of it. Oopsies. :oops: Other than that, I could not get my infrared sensors to work to run the spool filling system. I also didn't like the idea of letting only the machine shut the spooling motor off. I removed the infrared sensors and rewired it so that the momentary switch now controlled power to the motor. It shuts off when you let up on the switch. The spools fit very loosely on that shaft, too. I have to hold them against the shaft to get them to turn. Something I'll have to address. Anyway, here's what you guy's want to see, some videos of it in action. First two are shorts, third is 2 minutes long.




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First off, regarding the thimble spooling system, yes it runs fast but it also fills those thimbles very quickly, too. I would like to add a rheostatic switch to control speed, though. Second, if you fill the whole spool with smaller thread, the machine will run for and hour or two before it runs out. So if you are using smaller thread, only fill it halfway or less. As near as I can tell, the thimble mounts are geared at 2:1 counter turns per rotation. I am not sure that is enough to counteract most thread twisting. That along with a couple of malfunctions during processing resulted in throwing out quite a bit of the rope I made. There was still some good stuff, I used some Gutermann but it was smaller than skala and tera. I tried laying all six cables, but one thread wrapped around the thimble shaft and broke very early. About 10 minutes in one of the other thimble mounts worked loose on it's gear shaft and wasn't rotating at all in comparison to the head. That's when the rope stopped twisting right and started to unravel as soon as I released tension on those parts. I ran the machine for maybe half an hour or more and I think the middle gear on the main shaft had it's set screws come loose. The whole head had a tendency to walk out of the blacks the shafts are mounted in because they don't clamp down very tight on it. If you push it back in by pushing against the edge of the head with something frictionless, the whole thing can get really quiet, but most of the time it's pretty loud. So I need to do some modifying there.

Here are some of the planned fixes I intend to implement:

  1. Drill some small holes in the main shaft to allow the set screws to bottom out in them, that way, if they work loose, there is still interference keeping the gear from turning on the shaft.
  2. Find a way to clamp the main shaft tighter in it's support blocks so it can wander out.
  3. Do something about the thread spooler to make the thimbles sit more tightly on the motor shaft.
  4. Add a rheostatic switch to the spooler power supply.
  5. Figure out how to keep the thimble mounts on the head to stop coming loose.
  6. I'd like to try to do something about the shafts for the thimbles on the thimble brackets. Maybe find a good shoulder bolt for them.
  7. I'd also like to replace the gear shafts for the thimble brackets. They are currently aluminum all thread that is hollow. Might be hard to find a better solution.
  8. I'd also like to drill the center of the main shaft so I can add a core thread. I think I have a way to do it.
 
I would highly suggest that you contact ZHL and they can work on your list to improve the product. I am sure that they would appreciate the feedback in a positive way, or should.
 
For (2), I used two thrust bearings to lock in the main shaft. One outside the box and one inside the box. I had to cut a hole on the top of the box for the bearing but this worked:
For (5) I used thread lock.

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Jack Sparrow said:
For (2), I used two thrust bearings to lock in the main shaft. One outside the box and one inside the box. I had to cut a hole on the top of the box for the bearing but this worked:
For (5) I used thread lock.

View attachment 358147
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I wouldn't do that if I were you, Jack (Is Jack your name or just your handle?). The main shaft isn't supposed to turn at all, it needs to be stationary in order to make sure the thimble heads are actually rotating in time with the rotation of the main head. Worst case is you could get the thimble heads to not turn at all, though I suspect you would have noticed that happening by now if that was the case.

The only thing I can recommend on the main shaft is switch the shaft clamps to slightly smaller ones that actually clamp well on the shaft, these seem just a hair bit too loose. Maybe a shim would help.
Jack Sparrow said:
Question. I removed three of the heads and found the machine to run much better. Is there any application that you think would require 6 strands?
Click to expand...
No, I suspect I will do the same and only run the heads I need when I am working. I mean it's not like you're throwing them away or anything, just making the head lighter when you don't need all the extra weight. Plus now you have spares if one breaks.
 
rtwpsom2 said:
I wouldn't do that if I were you, Jack (Is Jack your name or just your handle?). The main shaft isn't supposed to turn at all, it needs to be stationary in order to make sure the thimble heads are actually rotating in time with the rotation of the main head. Worst case is you could get the thimble heads to not turn at all, though I suspect you would have noticed that happening by now if that was the case.

The only thing I can recommend on the main shaft is switch the shaft clamps to slightly smaller ones that actually clamp well on the shaft, these seem just a hair bit too loose. Maybe a shim would help.

No, I suspect I will do the same and only run the heads I need when I am working. I mean it's not like you're throwing them away or anything, just making the head lighter when you don't need all the extra weight. Plus now you have spares if one breaks.
Click to expand...
The idea was to keep the shaft from moving in and out. The existing mounts were tightened to stop the shaft from rotating. It seems to have worked for me, but I like your idea of shims.
 
Jack Sparrow said:
The idea was to keep the shaft from moving in and out. The existing mounts were tightened to stop the shaft from rotating. It seems to have worked for me, but I like your idea of shims.
Click to expand...
Maybe put a pin that runs through the mount and shaft? That may have been a better idea than mine. It's too late now because I already made the changes.
 
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Jack Sparrow said:
The idea was to keep the shaft from moving in and out. The existing mounts were tightened to stop the shaft from rotating. It seems to have worked for me, but I like your idea of shims.
Click to expand...
Ah, okay, good, I thought you had replaced the existing clamps. In that case, yes, thrust bearings would help. I'm going to see if I can find a soda can to mutilate into a shim and see how that goes.
 
I got some of Gutermann's Mara 15 in this week so I went whole hog and tried out a 6 strand rope with it, running left hand. Results are...rope?20230218_221622(0).jpg20230218_221627.jpg20230218_221824.jpg

I think it might have been better as a five strand, but oh well. I am going to try a three strand right hand rope next.
 
I made my first mod, which was to drill a small hole in each thimble. I can pass the thread through before winding and put a small piece of tape on it, and it winds like a dream now.

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My third attempt at rope, using 3 strands of Mara 15.
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I then baked it in the oven wrapped around a can at 350º for 5 minutes.
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Very happy with that result. Still some room for improvement, but I am going in the right direction. For those interested, 3 strands of Mara 15 get's you .155" diameter rope.
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Jack Sparrow said:
Did you implement the shim solution for the main shaft?
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Not yet, I have just been using something plastic to rub against the outer edge of the face of the main head to keep it from moving. We just took all our recycling out so I don't have any soda cans to cut shims from, yet.
 
Thank you for you thread. Video aand explaination are greet. These videos are the first I saw on the web. I waiting long time for that before making my mind on it.

Again thank you.
 
An alternative to measuring the diameter of the rope is to take a dowel of some sort, wrap the rope around the dowel 10 times, then measure the width of the wrap. If you divide that by 10, you get the diameter of the rope.
 
rtwpsom2 said:
I got some of Gutermann's Mara 15 in this week so I went whole hog and tried out a 6 strand rope with it, running left hand. Results are...rope?View attachment 358275View attachment 358276View attachment 358277

I think it might have been better as a five strand, but oh well. I am going to try a three strand right hand rope next.
Click to expand...
If I could offer a small tip. Your source thread is right handed - you can't directly make right handed rope from right handed source threads (as seen on your six thread result). On your next attempt (using three source threads) you made left handed rope and it turned out much nicer. I hope this helps!
 
dockattner said:
If I could offer a small tip. Your source thread is right handed - you can't directly make right handed rope from right handed source threads (as seen on your six thread result). On your next attempt (using three source threads) you made left handed rope and it turned out much nicer. I hope this helps!
Click to expand...
To make right hand rope, I assume you you would take the three left handed threads that have been just made, and then right twist? Is that correct?
 
This is why I am looking for Gutermann E-121 thread. Due to it's minimal twist you can use it to make right handed rope with this machine very easily.
 
Jack Sparrow said:
To make right hand rope, I assume you you would take the three left handed threads that have been just made, and then right twist? Is that correct?
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Yes. Or you can untwist the right handed source threads and effectively turn them into left handed source threads and then make right handed rope from them. This is why there is so much interest in monofilament source threads (Gutermann E121 for example) - now you can make right handed rope directly. The problem is finding this thread (I believe Ropes of Scale will one day sell the E121 - E151).

Edit - sorry. I posted this at the same time as the message just above me ROTF.
 
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