because I did not install them until now !
HMS GRANADO (1742) - midship section - POF by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe
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Thank youperché non li ho installati fino ad ora!
The mortar and the other metal elements were blackened and finally installed
the muzzle in the final touch
and fixed
and here you can see, when I made the mortar
- already some weeks ago, when I was building the mortar platform
to be continued .... many thanks for your interest
the muzzle in the final touch
and fixed
and here you can see, when I made the mortar
- already some weeks ago, when I was building the mortar platform
to be continued .... many thanks for your interest
Looks very, very good, excellent work. Jetzt schießen wir aber.
Hi Uwe,
That construction looks ridged enough to really fire that mortar. I see some pyro experimenting on the horizon.
Ps it seems the chinese boxwood is a different one then the european. In China they mainly have buxus microphylla where the european boxwood is buxus sempervirens. Do you notice differences in the wood or is the wood equal?
In the pictures it really looks sublime, but this is ofcourse also due too your work
That construction looks ridged enough to really fire that mortar. I see some pyro experimenting on the horizon.
Ps it seems the chinese boxwood is a different one then the european. In China they mainly have buxus microphylla where the european boxwood is buxus sempervirens. Do you notice differences in the wood or is the wood equal?
In the pictures it really looks sublime, but this is ofcourse also due too your work
The Chinese boxwood looks great, and I prefer it to Cherry wood which is supplied in the full hull Granado.
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@Maarten I can tel you the difference between Chinese and European boxwood. There is not much difference between them, but when you put them next to eachother, you will notice they are different. The chinese is less solid. Feels light when you hold it. I got here a few pieces and use them only for straight cut things. Like the spool holder on my serving tool. The Europeanen version is better for carving. It is a better quality. More solid. But still the Chinese boxwood is okay to use. You can order it on Aliexpress, look for knife handle.
Due to the fact, that I am in contact with Tom from CAF, I can make here in our forum an anouncement, when I get the info of a re-edition
Hallo,
I like this type also very much, often it comes out like blue-steel - I am using most often (and also here) the material from Ballistol - usually used by gunsmiths
We made once already the research and found out, that this blackening fluids are not available directly from Ballistol in Northern America ....
BALLISTOL
WAS MAN PFLEGT, BLEIBT GUT! - Gute Pflege zahlt sich aus – das gilt sowohl für die Reinigung, Schutz und Pflege mit BALLISTOL-Produkten für Mensch....
ballistol.de
The european boxwood is much better for carving, than this one. The density of european is higher.Hi Uwe,
That construction looks ridged enough to really fire that mortar. I see some pyro experimenting on the horizon.
Ps it seems the chinese boxwood is a different one then the european. In China they mainly have buxus microphylla where the european boxwood is buxus sempervirens. Do you notice differences in the wood or is the wood equal?
In the pictures it really looks sublime, but this is ofcourse also due too your work
But for structures like the wooden wall elements of the Granado this kind of wood is beautiful to work with. You get a very smooth and closed surface, very sharp and accurate edges and still the small section model is getting really heavy compared to other woods. and also very stiff.
I can really recommend this type of wood, although I like pear and Elsbeere very much by the colour.....
Not to produce here a misunderstanding: This chinese boxwood will be much better for carving than any cherry or pear wood, but the european is even better.
Many Thanks to @Steef66 for the additional information
The Chinese boxwood is off course much more expensive by the raw material in comparison with Cherry, and I guess also the cnc milling will take more time, because it is much harder.
So with this the full hull model would be more expensive for the customer - but where a demand is, there will be also a market ...
Hallo Radek,
the shiny surface is mainly caused by the lights in my workshop - in reality it is looking better similat to real muzzles, which you can see at museums
But maybe, if necessary there will be the possibility with grafite powder or simialr.....
Many Thanks for your interest
working further on the mortar pit .....
inside of the pit bulkhead octagon several removable boards have to be installed, which will be later on the base for the removable roofs. These are on the long side the 2 times part "4", 2 time "5" and at the short side on exach side the "6". The two roofs will lay on the top of parts 5 and 6 - and you can see, that there is a small step, that the top is not at the same level. This is caused by a small mistake in the kit, the parts "4" are 2mm too high. Tom from Caf was already informed by myself, so he will adjust this in the next batch of kits
Here you can see the mortar sitting inside the pit "non active" -> for "ready for action" the elements inside the pit have to be removed, so that the mortar can rotate
In the following you can see, that the elements "4" are already shortened by the 2mm, also the side covers on one side are prepared
the side covers received the eyelets for lifting
Many Thanks for your interest ---- to be continued .....
inside of the pit bulkhead octagon several removable boards have to be installed, which will be later on the base for the removable roofs. These are on the long side the 2 times part "4", 2 time "5" and at the short side on exach side the "6". The two roofs will lay on the top of parts 5 and 6 - and you can see, that there is a small step, that the top is not at the same level. This is caused by a small mistake in the kit, the parts "4" are 2mm too high. Tom from Caf was already informed by myself, so he will adjust this in the next batch of kits
Here you can see the mortar sitting inside the pit "non active" -> for "ready for action" the elements inside the pit have to be removed, so that the mortar can rotate
In the following you can see, that the elements "4" are already shortened by the 2mm, also the side covers on one side are prepared
the side covers received the eyelets for lifting
Many Thanks for your interest ---- to be continued .....
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Yes - the red marked difference of 2mm
these 2mm (red marks) have to be removed from the part 4 (and not 5) along the length - from the bottom
once more here in green the area which have to be removed - here it will be also clear why at part 4 and not 5, the notch for the small carling for the covers have to move down, so, that they are on the same level (blue marks)
as mentioned already, easy to correct, it is only necessary to know and understand - the new kits will be already corrected
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Thanks for your answer