Filler

This stuff
From my limited experiences, with two strip canoes and my Bluenose 64 scale model, I learned that if I took time and care in filing/shaping planks with repeated dry fit trials It is possible to have very tight plank edge joints which can be filled with a light rubbed application of Titebond and then sanded in an orbital manner with the sawdust filling the narrow crack. Tapering the plank edges or concave and convex hull areas is often needed. With finish sanding the glue and sanding dust rubbed in disappears from view, except for a macro photo. It takes longer but time and engagement is what the hobby is for me and not rushing things to be smeared or plastered over with filler. Even a second layer of planking has to be tightly laid and finished . . . unless you are going for a painted finish. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
 
From my limited experiences, with two strip canoes and my Bluenose 64 scale model, I learned that if I took time and care in filing/shaping planks with repeated dry fit trials It is possible to have very tight plank edge joints which can be filled with a light rubbed application of Titebond and then sanded in an orbital manner with the sawdust filling the narrow crack. Tapering the plank edges or concave and convex hull areas is often needed. With finish sanding the glue and sanding dust rubbed in disappears from view, except for a macro photo. It takes longer but time and engagement is what the hobby is for me and not rushing things to be smeared or plastered over with filler. Even a second layer of planking has to be tightly laid and finished . . . unless you are going for a painted finish. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
I pretty much do all the above, except the titebond glue.
 
Sounds more like it would make one big mess
Not at all. it is a very simple and clean process when the glue is applied with a hypodermic needle and syringe and localized sanding rubs it in. No mess at all and helps to fair the area out with the added light sanding. Rich.
 
As PT 2 wrote. If cracks isn't big, I place wood glue with my finger on the Crack and light sand the section. The Crack has now the filler of exactly the same wood color.

If you are going to paint, then wood filler for carpentry will do the job. Sand and paint.
 
hypodermic needle. and I can imagine a large bore syringe.... Where in the heck am i supposed to get one of those.
Go to your pharmacy store and ask for 3 ml syringe with a 1 1/2" x 1.2 mm needle. Those cost me a buck apiece so I bought 5. Using a water solubabale glue makes hot water cleaning periodicall of both the needle cover and the needle fairly simple to be used over and over. I did grind the point off for a flat end for general use but the sharp needle end works for filling narrow planking cracks for the over-sanding procedure. A thin wire can clean it out when the glue sets up in longer periods of not being used. The best solution to that was a set of fine reamers from Germany, a Broach Set of six, BRO-174.00, which are a square shape and clean out things very well. Rich (PT-2)
 
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