I think these gadgets are a solution looking for a problem. Just use home made jigs and tension the stays first, then lash the deadeyes, and they will all be even and have equal tension.I found these tools online but I don't understand how or where you would them.
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That's what you call, in the ship modelling business, a mistake. The jig was made a little too long, so to hold the deadeyes a bit closer together, the deadeyes with the pins in the jig were rotated 180 degrees to bring the pins closer together. It was faster than making a new jig, and it worked, just as long as you don't orient the deadeyes on the model in the same direction! One advantage to this mistake was that it was easier to get a grip on the tool to remove it from the model's deadeyes because of the offset between the two.Nice. I did notice that the largest one has the "point" of the triangle pointing out while the smaller ones are pointing in. I was under the impression that they all pointed the same way. Can you enlighten me?
Such jigs simplify lacing the lanyards but handling them after removal from the jig to attach shrouds and hounds is not easy - I've tried it and just end up with a tangle. Devices for spacing the deadeyes after attaching shrouds/hounds are not much use unless variable or numerous: if deadeye rows are to be horizontal then the spacing measured along the line of the lanyards will vary a lot over, say, ten differently angled shrouds. After several models I have settled on the sequence: 1) fix the lower deadeyes to the chain plate. 2) Fix a deadeye to one end of a shroud (on the bench) then lace it to a lower deadeye. 3) pass the other end of the shroud round the mast and form an adjustable loop at the other end : eg. double it back and tie a temporary seizing. 4) secure a deadeye on a widget (eg. bent wire or strip of wood with two pins in) to maintain its orientation. 5) Put the glue-smeared dead eye in the loop and adjust the height . 6) Tie the lanyard to seize the loop just above the upper deadeye. 7) When glue has set, remove widget and thread the lanyard through upper and lower deadeyes.I found these tools online but I don't understand how or where you would them.
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First you have chainplates and lower deadeyes finished and assembled onto the chainwales. Then you attached the shrouds at the top first in pairs, then use the jig at the bottom to tension them and lace the deadeyes. The jig is there to set the length and tension of the shroud, not set the distance between the deadeyes. To get the top deadeyes parallel to the waterline and even with other deadeyes, you tighten the lacing to the proper amount. Doing it this way ensures even tension of the shrouds and there is no fighting a tangle of hanging lines. But, you must work in the manner most comfortable for you.Such jigs simplify lacing the lanyards but handling them after removal from the jig to attach shrouds and hounds is not easy - I've tried it and just end up with a tangle. Devices for spacing the deadeyes after attaching shrouds/hounds are not much use unless variable or numerous: if deadeye rows are to be horizontal then the spacing measured along the line of the lanyards will vary a lot over, say, ten differently angled shrouds. After several models I have settled on the sequence: 1) fix the lower deadeyes to the chain plate. 2) Fix a deadeye to one end of a shroud (on the bench) then lace it to a lower deadeye. 3) pass the other end of the shroud round the mast and form an adjustable loop at the other end : eg. double it back and tie a temporary seizing. 4) secure a deadeye on a widget (eg. bent wire or strip of wood with two pins in) to maintain its orientation. 5) Put the glue-smeared dead eye in the loop and adjust the height . 6) Tie the lanyard to seize the loop just above the upper deadeye. 7) When glue has set, remove widget and thread the lanyard through upper and lower deadeyes.
TI believe that they are both are for lacing up your dead eyes off the model, and the lower Jig is adjustable, hope this helps,
Best regards John,
Oh yeah!These are my deadeye tools. You make them from deadeyes of various sizes, pins or brass wire, paperclips reshaped around the deadeyes using hand tools, and CA glue to prevent the deadeyes from rotating in the wire. Nothing fancy, but very useful. The prongs have just enough friction such that a deadeye slipped over them won't slide off easily. These are for models 1:100 scale up. I will need one or two larger ones for 1:75 scale.
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"Dooby, dooby, doo!" - I guess that was when he forgot the lyrics!Well at least with my mistakes I done them my way,
That second tool is USELESS. It breaks after 3 uses. Not will built and cheap. IMO
T
This is couple of small jigs that I made they come in handy,First you have chainplates and lower deadeyes finished and assembled onto the chainwales. Then you attached the shrouds at the top first in pairs, then use the jig at the bottom to tension them and lace the deadeyes. The jig is there to set the length and tension of the shroud, not set the distance between the deadeyes. To get the top deadeyes parallel to the waterline and even with other deadeyes, you tighten the lacing to the proper amount. Doing it this way ensures even tension of the shrouds and there is no fighting a tangle of hanging lines. But, you must work in the manner most comfortable for you.