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I love the lego idea on the bulkheads
Bluenose - Model Shipways MS2130 - 1/64 - By JeffT [COMPLETED BUILD]
I can't take credit for it as a technique. I have seen Legos used by many builders for aligning bulkheads. This was the first time that I used them. I ordered a small package of used Legos from eBay.
Planking on this kit is a single layer. This is where I get to see if I cut a decent rabbit or not. The better the rabbit is done the better the planking goes on. The supplied planking strips are not long enough to do the entire length of the hull, so instead of using shorter planks as has been suggested in some build logs I chose to go with 2 pieces per plank. The nice sharp bow of the ship allows the planks at the front to require very little adjustment of width, just an angle cut with some sanding to fit the rabbit. The stern is quite narrow compared to the bow and requires significant use of the plane to reduce the width of planks. I made a few measurements and decided on an approximate width for each plank. I did not do a great job with getting the width of each plank the same but the curve around the stern turned out OK. I seemed to have forgotten that I own multiple cameras while planking as I did not take very many pictures of the process. I did have to cut the rabbit deeper in the deadwood at the stern to get the planks to lie more evenly and to fit to the sternpost correctly.
Due to the shape of the hull and an adequate job on the rabbit, this was the easiest planking job I had undertaken to date.
I added the stern frames. These little pieces were the most difficult part of the build so far. The stern blocks had to be notched for the frames to sit in and there was little contact area to glue the frames. I used a small triangle taped to the stern to lean the frames against to get the correct angle. The blocking material on the starboard side is temporary and will be replaced with a similar (less tall) version later. I couldn't get CA or Titebond to hold adequately, so I mixed up some 5-minute epoxy which did the trick.
Other than a few minor errors requiring some fixes, the planking turned out well.
Due to the shape of the hull and an adequate job on the rabbit, this was the easiest planking job I had undertaken to date.
I added the stern frames. These little pieces were the most difficult part of the build so far. The stern blocks had to be notched for the frames to sit in and there was little contact area to glue the frames. I used a small triangle taped to the stern to lean the frames against to get the correct angle. The blocking material on the starboard side is temporary and will be replaced with a similar (less tall) version later. I couldn't get CA or Titebond to hold adequately, so I mixed up some 5-minute epoxy which did the trick.
Other than a few minor errors requiring some fixes, the planking turned out well.
Way to go Jeff. A major accomplishment presented with little fanfare. Bravo on a job well done. I can’t wait to see what it looks like sanded out.
"Little fanfare"! It must be my training in writing scientific papers. At least I'm not writing in third person. Thanks for the complement on the planking even if it is succinct.
Jeff, nicely done on the planking! Magic Mike
A nice job done, Jeff. At the stern a lot of flowing lines comes together. She is showing here curves very well. And the transition of the planks into the rabbet looks neat.
Regards, Peter
Thanks for the vote of approval on the planking. There was a bit of a challenge at the stern since it is so oval above the waterline and it drops sharply below the water line.
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Would you advise to paint the waterways before installing them, because they will be white
Not necessarily. I installed the waterways first then cutoff the bulkhead "stanchions" and tacked them back in place (to be seen in one of my next posts). I installed the bulwarks and finally all of the false stanchions. Once the stanchions were in place, the waterways were painted grey per the instructions. I then painted the stanchions and inner bulwarks white. Then some touch up to the grey waterways. I would definitely recommend painting the waterways before installing the decking.
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Starting the stern planking. Some further shaping of the stern will be needed once all of the planking is completed.
Waterways fully installed. Note how uneven looking the bulkhead tops are. The kit instructions suggest these should be used as stanchions, but most builders cut them out. I did as well. The knightheads and hawse timbers were installed at the bow. I cut a corner here and made a single piece (after cutting out the forward bulkhead tops. The instructions have the builder doing this in two pieces to use the bulkhead top as part of the unit. You can see where I cut the top off. I'll cut out the hawse hole for the anchor chain later.
At this point I cut off all of the bulkhead tops and replaced them with 1/8 square pieces. I drilled these pieces and then glued and tacked them in place on the waterways in place of the original bulkhead tops. The nails were used to provide lateral stability for until the bulwarks were installed.
One photograph that represent a lot of work. All of the scuppers were cut into the bulkhead planks prior to mounting on the ship. I probably counted how many scuppers holes there were, but I'm also glad to have forgotten that number; 2 holes per stanchion. The scuppers are supposed to be rectangular, but I didn't have the tools (nor skills nor patience) to cut them into that shape. Instead, I used a rectangular file edge to cut "sort of rectangular" scuppers (more like half circles). The bulwarks planks were then installed. I'm still considering whether to attempt to reshape them a bit more.
Waterways fully installed. Note how uneven looking the bulkhead tops are. The kit instructions suggest these should be used as stanchions, but most builders cut them out. I did as well. The knightheads and hawse timbers were installed at the bow. I cut a corner here and made a single piece (after cutting out the forward bulkhead tops. The instructions have the builder doing this in two pieces to use the bulkhead top as part of the unit. You can see where I cut the top off. I'll cut out the hawse hole for the anchor chain later.
At this point I cut off all of the bulkhead tops and replaced them with 1/8 square pieces. I drilled these pieces and then glued and tacked them in place on the waterways in place of the original bulkhead tops. The nails were used to provide lateral stability for until the bulwarks were installed.
One photograph that represent a lot of work. All of the scuppers were cut into the bulkhead planks prior to mounting on the ship. I probably counted how many scuppers holes there were, but I'm also glad to have forgotten that number; 2 holes per stanchion. The scuppers are supposed to be rectangular, but I didn't have the tools (nor skills nor patience) to cut them into that shape. Instead, I used a rectangular file edge to cut "sort of rectangular" scuppers (more like half circles). The bulwarks planks were then installed. I'm still considering whether to attempt to reshape them a bit more.
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Nice progress and a lot off work done, Jeff. The stern is gone look fine with the planking.
About the scuppers: it you turn your file 180dgr, perhaps the shape becomes more rectangular? Be sure then to let the pressure upwards.
Regards, Peter
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Thank you, that’s what I will do.
Stanchions, stanchions and more stanchions.
Stanchions are made from 1/8 x 1/8 stock. I didn't measure very accurately on length for each one. I just made sure they were long enough to be higher than the bulwarks. They were glued to the bulwarks and the water ways. This was a fairly simple step, but it took some time as I was adding 9 or 10 each session.
Stanchions are made from 1/8 x 1/8 stock. I didn't measure very accurately on length for each one. I just made sure they were long enough to be higher than the bulwarks. They were glued to the bulwarks and the water ways. This was a fairly simple step, but it took some time as I was adding 9 or 10 each session.
I don't think I that I mentioned that I installed the "great beam" and associated parts before I did the waterway. The great beam is at the break in the deck between the foredeck and quarterdeck. The instructions have you waiting to do that until after the stanchions are in. That did not feel like the best way to do it to me and recommend that the great beam parts be added before/during waterway construction.
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Looks really nice. That’s my fear all those stanchions, must be over 100. Get tired just thinking about it.
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Those stanchions really add credibility to your build.
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Sometimes you have to make your own build sequence. I consider the build instructions as a guide, not the law.
A nice repeating placement of the 2x54 stanchions, Jeff. It gives the bulwarks their tru appearance.
It is a large number of stanchions, but this method avoids making just as many well-fitted recesses in the waterways.
Regards, Peter