1/350 USS New Jersey Revell Platinum Edition

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Hello everyone, this will be my first build log here and mostly my first build log anywhere so hopefully as I move along threw the build I'll get better at sharing the good stuff with you all.

The Kit is the Revell Platinum Edition 1/350 USS New Jersey post 1982 era16889583778355383675378018438313.jpg16889584088503270940642565503057.jpg
The cool thing about this kit is it comes with tons of upgrades built into the kit it's self. Wooden deck, turned brass barrels, and PE. Revell really stepped up it's game with this kit unfortunately since I already started I don't have a nice layout of all the parts and pieces to show you guys.

One downfall to the kit is the instructions, like any out of the box kit in which you add upgrades you have your base instructions and your or instructions an the base instructions were not designed when the PE and upgrades where added to the kit so you have to work from three separate instructions books, which over all aren't the worst PE instructions I've come across but aren't the best either.

The Kit parts them selves seem to be pretty good quality not much flash or mold/injection lines and marks. And they dry fit well enough with only some minor clean up and seam work at the joints.

As a US Navy sailor a generation to late to enjoy the Iowa class battleships I never got a chance to see true surface warfare but these battleships always were the most spectacular pieces of naval engineering I've ever laid eyes upon. The USS New Jersey now rests after 4 commisionings and decommissionings as a museum ship just 30 minutes from my house, over the years I've visited her several times and even had a chance to stay aboard her for a few days as a kid. Recently I applied to be a volunteer at the museum ship to help with restoration projects how ever I have to find the time to actually get down to her and put in the work.

The New Jersey has severed in WWII, Korea, Vietnam, The Cold War, Lebanon, and the beginning of Desert Storm and between each conflict received several updates and refits, the final state she was transformed to is the state she remains and also the state in which this model kit reflects. Prior to her decommissioning she could hold her own in speed strength and reach with our most modern US fleet which is pretty amazing for a ship launched in 1943.

Personally I believe our modern navy is lacking in our surface Warfare department, ever since the naval aircraft and guided missiles came into the picture there has been at least in my opinion a miss guided belief that ship to ship combat is a thing of the past an while it may be partially true we also haven't fought a country with a modern/equivalent navy in a few decades so we wouldn't truly know but a sailor can dream, if there was ever a bucket list item it would be seeing a 16" gun broad side firing.

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Tonight I worked on a small section of the super structure that had some PE I figured I'd do this build in sub sections and give my self a chance to learn PE building in small amounts so not to get over whelmed and fat finger the parts like I have in previous builds
 
Hello everyone, this will be my first build log here and mostly my first build log anywhere so hopefully as I move along threw the build I'll get better at sharing the good stuff with you all.

The Kit is the Revell Platinum Edition 1/350 USS New Jersey post 1982 eraView attachment 383862View attachment 383863
The cool thing about this kit is it comes with tons of upgrades built into the kit it's self. Wooden deck, turned brass barrels, and PE. Revell really stepped up it's game with this kit unfortunately since I already started I don't have a nice layout of all the parts and pieces to show you guys.

One downfall to the kit is the instructions, like any out of the box kit in which you add upgrades you have your base instructions and your or instructions an the base instructions were not designed when the PE and upgrades where added to the kit so you have to work from three separate instructions books, which over all aren't the worst PE instructions I've come across but aren't the best either.

The Kit parts them selves seem to be pretty good quality not much flash or mold/injection lines and marks. And they dry fit well enough with only some minor clean up and seam work at the joints.

As a US Navy sailor a generation to late to enjoy the Iowa class battleships I never got a chance to see true surface warfare but these battleships always were the most spectacular pieces of naval engineering I've ever laid eyes upon. The USS New Jersey now rests after 4 commisionings and decommissionings as a museum ship just 30 minutes from my house, over the years I've visited her several times and even had a chance to stay aboard her for a few days as a kid. Recently I applied to be a volunteer at the museum ship to help with restoration projects how ever I have to find the time to actually get down to her and put in the work.

The New Jersey has severed in WWII, Korea, Vietnam, The Cold War, Lebanon, and the beginning of Desert Storm and between each conflict received several updates and refits, the final state she was transformed to is the state she remains and also the state in which this model kit reflects. Prior to her decommissioning she could hold her own in speed strength and reach with our most modern US fleet which is pretty amazing for a ship launched in 1943.

Personally I believe our modern navy is lacking in our surface Warfare department, ever since the naval aircraft and guided missiles came into the picture there has been at least in my opinion a miss guided belief that ship to ship combat is a thing of the past an while it may be partially true we also haven't fought a country with a modern/equivalent navy in a few decades so we wouldn't truly know but a sailor can dream, if there was ever a bucket list item it would be seeing a 16" gun broad side firing.

View attachment 383864View attachment 383865
Tonight I worked on a small section of the super structure that had some PE I figured I'd do this build in sub sections and give my self a chance to learn PE building in small amounts so not to get over whelmed and fat finger the parts like I have in previous builds
Looks like a nice kit with a lot of extras. Good luck. Look forward to watching her come together.
 
Looking forward to your build and will follow it with interest. Also find your opinion on surface warfare between ship-to-ship quite interesting.
I could talk on this topic for quite some time however there is a force master chief who's name eludes me who did an article on the topic in great depth, but to sum it up the US navy used to be made up of several classes of ships designed to handle different mission objectives, the battle ship and frigate were designed to serve the role of surface combat between vessels, in current years are fleet has down sized and we now have a surface combat fleet made up just two classes the Ticonderoga class cruiser and the Arliegh Burke class destroyer both of which are very successful however growing more and more limited in mission capabilities. The new generation of littoral combat ships has been an epic failure and spend more time in dry dock then on the water, they were designed to be able to be multirole capable in theory but in practice it has been discovered that they can only truely handle one or two mission outfits. The Zumwalt class destroyer cool in theory still doesn't have a weapon system well correction doesn't have a projectile for its untested weapons system.. so the US Navy is slowly boxing it's self in.

On a secondary note since we went to guided missiles and aircraft based weapons we have built plenty of defense systems that can counter those attacks but what they can't do is stop good old fashion artillery shells that are the equivalent to giant metal bullets so in theory if we were to have a sea battle with a navy using old school 12" or greater projectiles we would be in trouble
 
Update- so today I preformed more work on the superstructure mainly completing air attack radar structure and range finders, in addition adding PE ladders and railings both of which are my kryptonite but I'm happy to report the PE in this kit holds up pretty good and isn't to complex.

A few fumbles and I was able to complete roughly 80 precent of this sub section. Mind you I haven't cleaned it up yet so there's some rough glueing and blemishes that need to be cleaned up.

I should mention a few things, I'm working with some very basic PE tools, and my PE skills are sub par but I'm managing.

I primed the model parts with Mr surfacer 500 gray, I like the stuff because when used with Mr leveling thinner it coats well and fills in scratches and blemishes pretty nicely the leveling thinner allows you to lay thicker coats that spread out evenly so you don't get drips and thick edges which makes covering blemishes even better.PXL_20230710_193448931.MP.jpg
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Taking a tip I saw another thread I masked the hull to set up for armor plate lines which is detail the hull lacks, it's my first attempt at this so it'll be a learning curve but I plan on adding a few layers of surfacer and then lightly sand. PXL_20230710_135808746.MP.jpg

I had one hiccup today in which I impaled my hand .. lol accident prone I guess. I use an old air brush needle to apply CA glue, the fine point helps get the glue much neater to where I need when working with smaller parts, unfortunately after applying the glue I set the needle down and being clumsy I knocked something over in my quick jerk to catch said item I skidded the palm of my hand down onto the needle which promptly sank about 3/4" into my hand.. the remaining CA glue on said needle then promptly cured in my hand ...

Frantically trying to remove the needle and realizing that it was now not only imbedded in my palm but also glue into me I composed my self realizing that what I was gonna need to do was gonna hurt a whole bunch, I took a deep breath turned my head and quickly yanked down hard on the needle pulling it out of my PXL_20230710_133334354.MP.jpghand.. ironically enough I used the same CA glue to close the now bleeding hole in my hand.

Pro tip crazy glue works great to close wounds and the alcohol content within the glue kills bacteria
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except that the armor plating on the hull is actually internal so your lines are wrong. your lines should look more like this.bow hull plating.jpgi have the dock keel plan but is probably too big for this site at about 22.5mb. i also have the Booklet of General Plans 1984 for the New Jersey at 62mb if you need either or both.
 
except that the armor plating on the hull is actually internal so your lines are wrong. your lines should look more like this.View attachment 384030i have the dock keel plan but is probably too big for this site at about 22.5mb. i also have the Booklet of General Plans 1984 for the New Jersey at 62mb if you need either or both.
That would be extremely helpful, those lines are gonna be pretty complex it seems
 
except that the armor plating on the hull is actually internal so your lines are wrong. your lines should look more like this.View attachment 384030i have the dock keel plan but is probably too big for this site at about 22.5mb. i also have the Booklet of General Plans 1984 for the New Jersey at 62mb if you need either or both.
Do you think they'd fit in a email?
 
With your hand there to show scale, it lets us see just how small the PE is! Also, have to agree with the lack of NGF (naval gunfire). I was a NGF spotter) in the Nam, unfortunately too far inland to usually use it. Always wanted to call in 8” or 16” NGF.
 
With your hand there to show scale, it lets us see just how small the PE is! Also, have to agree with the lack of NGF (naval gunfire). I was a NGF spotter) in the Nam, unfortunately too far inland to usually use it. Always wanted to call in 8” or 16” NGF.
A 16" shell impact would be a sight to see granted you weren't in the target. I think with all things alot of the military is retroactive as much as they claim to be proactive. Things don't change until something happens and then they have to.. the Navy has been on the decline for a few years as is most of the other branches .. they took tanks away from the Marines because they believed the Marines should be more of a fast assault force, but I guess they forgot why the Marines had tanks in the first place
 
are you painting the lines or as plates to create the lines? go thru this link & look at all the Iowa class ships to see if you can actually see the plate lines. http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/05bbidx.htm
as you are working on a 1/350 scale model, you would in real life have to be real close to see those lines. do you see all the lines on a Boeing 747 or an Airbus 380 from a distance to see the whole aircraft at once, nope. same thing with any ship to be able to see the whole length at once means you loose sight of the hull lines.
 
are you painting the lines or as plates to create the lines? go thru this link & look at all the Iowa class ships to see if you can actually see the plate lines. http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/05bbidx.htm
as you are working on a 1/350 scale model, you would in real life have to be real close to see those lines. do you see all the lines on a Boeing 747 or an Airbus 380 from a distance to see the whole aircraft at once, nope. same thing with any ship to be able to see the whole length at once means you loose sight of the hull lines.
My over all goal is to give the hull back some of its detail, for later weathering, and canning. I get what your saying though and over all I don't plan on making these lines so pronounced they don't look real or become distracting. But just enough to give it something
 
cleanup the bottom of the hull as i can see the seam where the 2 hull halves were glued together. am i correct that all you have done to the hull was put tape on it? have you primed the hull or just paint onto the plastic?
 
Again I know this won't be true to life but hopefully it adds a little something to make the hull look and feel of heavy metal. I used a special tape know has kapton tape it's used for electrical circuit boards you some times see it in computers the tape is transparent and silicone and makes a good clean seal with no left behind residue. It works awesome for glass masking like aircraft canopies as you can see threw it and it won't mess up clear plastic or resin it's also very easy to cut with a nice clean fresh number 11 blade and just enough pressure that'll cut the tape but not mark the plastic under it.

I applied three layers of Mr surfacer 500 with Mr leveling thinner an worked in a staggered pattern only outlining to the right of each piece of tape and bottom edge of each box this will help keep the boxes from getting double lined but again won't be perfect just enough to accent the hull hopefully if not I'll just sand and reprime the hull 16890380474142609043863292729166.jpg16890380675115114407520417676693.jpg
 
Update- so my little experiment didn't really come out how I had hoped unfortunately the lines were created but the over spray also outlined the edges of the tape I didn't want to highlight in the future doing this lineing one direction of line at a time would probably work better, however I have a plan B.

I did a little light sanding to take away the abruptness of each line and plan to put a coat of surfacer over The work I just did and hopefully it should cover the lines but give the hull a canned effect you see on newer generation ships. Idk if the term canning is universal in the modeling world but hopefully when all said and done it'll make more sense if not I will have learned what not to do.

I wanted to try and get this done tonight but the humidity is high and I'm working out of a non climate controlled garage so my compressor is picking up a lot of moisture and the trap is not collecting it all so it's coming up my air line to the air brush and making a mess. Tomorrow I'll post an update hopefully
 
i know about the kapton tape as have used it in the computer world back in the 80's til 2002. i would have done the plate painting method differently. i would have painted the hull to the color you wanted then put long strips of the tape starting at the top of the hull amidships parallel to the waterline. you will cover the hull with tape down to the bend of the hull bottom. don't worry about the bottom. the tape strips will butt side to side not overlap. once covered with tape then remove every other row. spray paint then remove rest of the tape. your tape width about matches that of plating drawing above which is more realistic then what you are trying to do. forget the vertical tapes as not needed.
 
The Navy is like the Air Force, I am an old A-10 Crew Chief (Plain Captain) in Navy terms, and to think the new F-35 can replace a plane specifically built to attack ground armor is silly. Going faster with electronics doesn't make a plane better, only faster.

The A-10 proved all the critics wrong when they said it would be shot out of sky by defenders of the enemy tanks they were going after.
 
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