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Hi Wayne. The steam engine is a real one. It is a Stuart 10V which I got from one of my friends because he had no use for it. It came just as is, without reversing gear, and partly for this reason I didn't want to use it with steam. Also, as you wrote the electric drive is so much simpler to...

Hello Wayne, as you have read, the boiler is a fake one made of wood. It includes the gearmotor together with the 7,2 V battery and RC equipment. At the top of funnel is a small smoke generator which can also be operated with RC. All steam pipes & valves are made of styrene. The benefit of...

Just to show how I have installed an electric gearmotor on the common axle with steam engine at my previous open sloop project: And how it looks together with a false boiler:

Hi Bernhard & Wayne, what a coinsidence. I have just started the build of the African Queen in 1:12 scale using the plans bought from Selway Fisher ( https://www.selway-fisher.com/Motorcruisers.htm ). I decided to use their Ijssel 30 to build the hull in the common way with wooden planks on...

Very beautiful engine Daniel! Is it one piece or rotating? I like the idea to install the steam engine on the same axle as electric motor which actually powers the propeller. When electric motor is hidden under ship constructions, it looks like the steam engine actually rotates the propeller.

Thank you!

Thanks a lot Jagpilot!

Thanks Jagpilot! Unfortunately I don't understand Ukrainian, so I don't exactly know which paints he is using and when. I wonder if those paints are some sort of stains, soluble in water. It might be possible to buy only stain dust and mix it with water if I only knew which shades to buy. And...

Beautiful work Jagpilot with a perfect kit! I have always admired Pavel's models especially due to the finish of them. Have tried to ask him about instructions how to achieve similar surface quality but haven't received any answer. I understand that you have purchased together with the ship...

When building deck for my new project I found impossible to use normal clamps because they must be inserted from above through very narrow openings. This is why I made small simple clamps using long M3 screws, pieces of brass tubing soldered together with small pieces of 2x6 mm brass rod...

Tervetuloa joukkoon Asim. Hauska nähdä muitakin suomalaisia täällä! Welcome to the group Asim, nice to see other Finnish members here!

I have a multi purpose set of live centres which includes two interchangeable negative cone centres. Installed into lathe tailstock it is very easy to use with the work supported by a rotating negative cone.

Welcome, always nice to have more Finnish builders here.

Again same idea but a bit differently. From metal scrapyards you can get old letters used in printing houses very cheaply. Those are made of mainly lead, thus being quite heavy. Put those in small plastic bags and you get handy weight bags for very small investment:

Same idea but slightly different way. I glued small wooden stick into those spring clamps with epoxy. Bulkheads of 7 mm plywood are thick enough to keep the clamps strongly in place:

Or you could make your own by gluing a small screw into a hole drilled in wooden dowel and piece of 2 mm plywood:

Yes, that might help to have the clamp bite even better into wood.

I tried that but it didn't work. Only needles seem to work.

No I didn't. I have to try that too!

Very often one faces problem that clamps do not hold the planks during glue drying. Especially at the bow of a model. I have tried to glue coarse sandpaper on the jaws of clamps, but glue doesnt work with soft plastic jaws. Yesterday I pushed some sewing needles through the jaws and cut rest of...