And Another Bluenose

Paul L said:
Thanks all. Just one thing I need help with, the finish, Tung Oil, Linseed Oil or Varnish?
Heinrich, I'll post more photos.
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Hi Paul. The best is to do some test. Then you see the separate result your own. Seen on the screen it’s depending on so many thinks:
-how was the (color temperature) light by the one who took te picture;
-with was color profile of his/her camera;
-and the profile of program where the picture was edited of updated;
-what is the color profile of your screen.
That’s not only for the finish, but also for the color of the paint job. E.g.: See Green or See Blue?
It also happend with my BN. What Johan en Henk saw in real life was so different from what they had in mind from what the saw in my build-log.
I am a great fan of (boiled) linseed oil. But luckely of not, you can see in the other log the others.
Choices, choises, choises …….
Regards, Peter
 
Paul L said:
Thanks all. Just one thing I need help with, the finish, Tung Oil, Linseed Oil or Varnish?
Heinrich, I'll post more photos.
Click to expand...
That's very personal; take a look around and it's like almost every modeler has his own preferences.
Some of us are testing the various options quite extensively and are experimenting with various finishes.
I think the prudent option would be to run some tests yourself to see what you prefer.
 
I love Tung Oil and am a big advocate of it. On Pear, in particular, it is a proven winner and will give you an incomparable finish. However - just make very sure that you have added everything (read glued everything in place) BEFORE you use Tung oil. If you use 100% Tung oil, it would be impossible to glue anything to sections already covered with the Tung oil.
 
Heinrich said:
I love Tung Oil and am a big advocate of it. On Pear, in particular, it is a proven winner and will give you an incomparable finish. However - just make very sure that you have added everything (read glued everything in place) BEFORE you use Tung oil. If you use 100% Tung oil, it would be impossible to glue anything to sections already covered with the Tung oil.
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Thanks Heinrich, I did read that before.
 
I use clear polyurethane matte sheen (can be oil based or water based, although I now have a can of water based, MinWax poly) exclusively for all finish surfaces on my models. The matte sheen is not dead flat so it provides a bit of life to the finish. I use the poly to seal wood parts as I build the model. The poly also seals metal parts. I can glue parts onto poly coated surfaces. So for me, poly is my base go to finish and seal coat for my builds.
 
danielsje said:
I use clear polyurethane matte sheen (can be oil based or water based, although I now have a can of water based, MinWax poly) exclusively for all finish surfaces on my models. The matte sheen is not dead flat so it provides a bit of life to the finish. I use the poly to seal wood parts as I build the model. The poly also seals metal parts. I can glue parts onto poly coated surfaces. So for me, poly is my base go to finish and seal coat for my builds,
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I use a satin clear coat, and I use water based only, due to vapors. No issues with glue. And unlike oils, the color will not change and you will not need any future applications. In addition, dust sticks to oils and not clear coated surfaces. Just my logic for using a clear coat verse oils. ;)
 
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