Wooden blocks - CNC machined - first try

Joined
May 1, 2023
Messages
114
Points
113

Hi everyone!

I'd like to begin with a question: How do you create wooden blocks?
This question has become quite significant for me, and I'm actively seeking an optimal solution.
So, any of your ideas, experiences, or links would be greatly appreciated!



In most cases, the question "how to make blocks" doesn't arise. Generally, you either possess a quality kit containing the appropriate blocks, or you don't concern yourself with it, opting for a quicker route where the block quality matches the overall kit quality.

At least, that was my situation. I never attempted to craft blocks until I embarked on my "Santa Maria Project." After using high-quality kits with impeccably crafted blocks, I find it hard to accept what Amati offers in the Santa Maria kit. Given that I'm now approaching the rigging stage in my project, I've initiated experiments in block-making.

I believe utilizing a good laser would make the process somewhat easier, but unfortunately, I don't have access to one. While printing the blocks is feasible, I desire them to be wooden. Regrettably, available printers cannot handle wood printing... yet.

Consequently, my only viable option is CNC machining.

I've established several prerequisites:

1. The technology must be scalable and easily replicable, as I might require dozens of blocks.
2. It should be relatively simple, minimizing preparation and manufacturing time.
3. I need the capability to create both single-sheave and multi-sheave blocks.
4. The finished simulated blocks should closely resemble real ones, even in 1:64 or 1:72 scale.

I've conceptualized two machining approaches:

The first theoretically promises superior results but necessitates double-sided machining, which I'm trying to avoid due to the higher precision demands on stock and fixtures.

The second approach is simpler, involving only one-sided processing, but it's suitable only for one- or two-sheaved blocks.

Today, I decided to explore the simpler approach and present the initial outcome.

The process involves four fundamental stages:

1. Modeling: I utilized Fusion 360, as usual. The modeling process is relatively quick. Most of my time was spent experimenting with various cutting strategies to achieve optimal results with minimal production time.

01.jpg

02.jpg


2. Wooden stock preparation: The final block is 2.3 mm thick, so the stock must precisely match this thickness. I opted for pear wood, and the bar needed to be precisely 1.15 mm thick. CNC machining enables such precision for wooden details.

IMG_7395.jpg

3. Detail cutting: I employed a 0.6 mm drill for hole-making and a 0.4 mm endmill for internal details like the sheave. The contour of the details was carved using a 1 mm mill. Given the miniature size of the tools, the main challenge was avoiding breakage.

IMG_7405.jpg

IMG_7410.jpg

IMG_7416.jpg

IMG_7426.jpg

IMG_7427.jpg

4. Assembly and finishing: This stage proved straightforward. I had to accurately join the two halves of the blocks together. I accomplished this while the blocks were still connected in a "chain," not yet separated.

IMG_7428.jpg

IMG_7434.jpg

This marks the initial result compared to what the kit provides. The primary goal was to assess the viability of the approach, and it seems to be satisfactory. Now, I'll focus on refining the design and process details.

MVV_7312.jpg

MVV_7313.jpg

MVV_7315.jpg

The current block design isn't perfect; they currently resemble rectangles but should have a more "lentil-like" shape. Another challenge I haven't addressed yet is the channel for the rope on the top and sides of the block (#3 in the picture). While it's possible to manually create this channel with a needle file, it's a time-consuming and imprecise method. If you have any ideas, please share them.

Изображение WhatsApp 2023-08-24 в 14.42.05.jpg

I intend to continue these experiments and will keep sharing my progress here.
 
Last edited:
Hi everyone!

I'd like to begin with a question: How do you create blocks?
This question has become quite significant for me, and I'm actively seeking an optimal solution.
So, any of your ideas, experiences, or links would be greatly appreciated!



In most cases, the question "how to make blocks" doesn't arise. Generally, you either possess a quality kit containing the appropriate blocks, or you don't concern yourself with it, opting for a quicker route where the block quality matches the overall kit quality.

At least, that was my situation. I never attempted to craft blocks until I embarked on my "Santa Maria Project." After using high-quality kits with impeccably crafted blocks, I find it hard to accept what Amati offers in the Santa Maria kit. Given that I'm now approaching the rigging stage in my project, I've initiated experiments in block-making.

I believe utilizing a good laser would make the process somewhat easier, but unfortunately, I don't have access to one. While printing the blocks is feasible, I desire them to be wooden. Regrettably, available printers cannot handle wood printing... yet.

Consequently, my only viable option is CNC machining.

I've established several prerequisites:

1. The technology must be scalable and easily replicable, as I might require dozens of blocks.
2. It should be relatively simple, minimizing preparation and manufacturing time.
3. I need the capability to create both single-sheave and multi-sheave blocks.
4. The finished simulated blocks should closely resemble real ones, even in 1:64 or 1:72 scale.

I've conceptualized two machining approaches:

The first theoretically promises superior results but necessitates double-sided machining, which I'm trying to avoid due to the higher precision demands on stock and fixtures.

The second approach is simpler, involving only one-sided processing, but it's suitable only for one- or two-sheaved blocks.

Today, I decided to explore the simpler approach and present the initial outcome.

The process involves four fundamental stages:

1. Modeling: I utilized Fusion 360, as usual. The modeling process is relatively quick. Most of my time was spent experimenting with various cutting strategies to achieve optimal results with minimal production time.

View attachment 391065

View attachment 391066


2. Wooden stock preparation: The final block is 2.3 mm thick, so the stock must precisely match this thickness. I opted for pear wood, and the bar needed to be precisely 1.15 mm thick. CNC machining enables such precision for wooden details.

View attachment 391067

3. Detail cutting: I employed a 0.6 mm drill for hole-making and a 0.4 mm endmill for internal details like the sheave. The contour of the details was carved using a 1 mm mill. Given the miniature size of the tools, the main challenge was avoiding breakage.

View attachment 391068

View attachment 391069

View attachment 391070

View attachment 391071

View attachment 391072

4. Assembly and finishing: This stage proved straightforward. I had to accurately join the two halves of the blocks together. I accomplished this while the blocks were still connected in a "chain," not yet separated.

View attachment 391073

View attachment 391074

This marks the initial result compared to what the kit provides. The primary goal was to assess the viability of the approach, and it seems to be satisfactory. Now, I'll focus on refining the design and process details.

View attachment 391076

View attachment 391077

View attachment 391079

The current block design isn't perfect; they currently resemble rectangles but should have a more "lentil-like" shape. Another challenge I haven't addressed yet is the channel for the rope on the top and sides of the block (#3 in the picture). While it's possible to manually create this channel with a needle file, it's a time-consuming and imprecise method. If you have any ideas, please share them.

View attachment 391078

I intend to continue these experiments and will keep sharing my progress here.
I would use a milling machine. There are several manufacturers that make small milling machines. I happen to have the Proxxon MF70 which seems to suit my needs in milling wood.
 
Я немного обновил конструкцию и теперь хочу попробовать ее на станке с ЧПУ...
Эта конкретная конструкция требует двусторонней обработки... Кажется, этого сложно избежать.

View attachment 391090

View attachment 391091
Здравствуйте, возможно, таким образом можно обработать две стороны.IMG_20230826_102145.jpg
 
Здравствуйте, возможно, таким образом можно обработать две стороны.View attachment 391434

Hi @piter56

That is exactly the way I'm working on. Here is the model of my next test step:

19.jpg

For details like this, I use old (broken) 3mm mill bits as indexing pins. I think for this one two should be enough... Will see this later tonight:)
 
I noticed that you are using Fusion 360. Are you familiar with FreeCad? Can you machine 2.5D parts with Fusion 360 free edition?
Noop. I never used FreeCAD, but I think it is worth trying. I've just downloaded it. Will play as soon as I have some time.

A free version of F360 has certain limitations on feeds and speeds, tool change, and some other things. Yes, it does not support the 4th axis.
So far just double-sided machining, when it is enough to just flip the detail or rotate it 90° is fine with me. But I'm planning to upgrade my machine with the 4 axis, and there, I think, I would need to look for an alternative to free F360 to support it. May be FreeCAD will work here. I will see. Thank you ;)
 
good idea. never thought about that. I will try it.
For me, this method works perfectly with relatively small parts. I've never actually compared the cost of using only double-sided tape vs using two tapes + CA glue. It's possible that the latter might be more expensive. However, some CA glues allow for the positioning of details due to their longer curing time, and this feature holds importance for me, especially when I require precise positioning of the stock. Achieving this level of precision is much more challenging with double-sided tape.

However, when attempting to secure "larger" (e.g. 20x10x2 cm) wooden bars in this manner, certain issues might arise. This is because larger wood pieces are less flexible and may not be perfectly flat. In such cases, neither double-sided tape nor the combination of two tapes and CA glue will suffice. For these situations, I rely on various types of clamps to exert pressure and hold the stock in place.
 
My limited experience in rigging would indicate that the best way to "push" a rope through a bock is by first putting CA on it and cutting it at an angle at the end. This stiffens a cm or so of the rope, making it much easier to go through the hole. I was thinking that your design, with its curved "channel" for the rope might be resistant to pushing the rope through (depending, of course, on the size of the rope and channel).

Keeping that in mind, you might consider the following change to internals of your more accurate block design:
1693059645893.png
This gives a straight-through "hole" for the rope, yet keeps the outer appearance the same. You wouldn't be able to tell it from your design, but I think it might be easier to thread rope through.

Just an idea.
 
While your block design is good, are you sure it's accurate to the period for your Santa Maria? They look more modern to me.

In the instructions to my Ragusian Carrack are many illustrations used by MarisStella for their Santa Maria model, and their model ship school, which builds the Santa Maria. I won't compare your wonderful build work and design with any kit, but the illustration below shows block designs intended for their Santa Maria model and, I think, possibly more appropriate design for yours as well:
1693060398556.jpeg
The 14th century design would appear both more accurate (to me) and easier to manufacture for you.
 
We 3D-print our ships' blocks, jeer blocks, and deadeyes in gray resin. Obviously, wood is the more authentic material but resin allows us to reliably make blocks as small as just 2 mm tall.

We use Fusion 360 also.

View attachment 391485View attachment 391486View attachment 391487View attachment 391488View attachment 391489

Yeah, I have a good printer and could print things like this with no problem.
The whole idea behind - is to make relatively small wooden blocks!
 
My limited experience in rigging would indicate that the best way to "push" a rope through a bock is by first putting CA on it and cutting it at an angle at the end. This stiffens a cm or so of the rope, making it much easier to go through the hole. I was thinking that your design, with its curved "channel" for the rope might be resistant to pushing the rope through (depending, of course, on the size of the rope and channel).

Keeping that in mind, you might consider the following change to internals of your more accurate block design:
View attachment 391502
This gives a straight-through "hole" for the rope, yet keeps the outer appearance the same. You wouldn't be able to tell it from your design, but I think it might be easier to thread rope through.

Just an idea.
I was also thinking about this before I tried. Now I can say this is not an issue.
The "Curved" design has already been practically tested. Yes, I had to use some CA to the end of the rope, but the rest went absolutely smoothly. In reality, the curvature is not that strong.

But, of course, there is a "traditional" way, when you do not replicate the round sheave, and just drill two holes instead. I keep this in mind for my other approach.

Here is another concept of carving I have in mind and in my Fusion 360 :) - no curved holes!

14.jpg

But this approach assumes a more difficult fixture.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top