Will it work?

[whiskers]

I have a dowel that is 2 inches longer than my lathe can handle. To me this is the best way to shape a mast. I want to cut the dowel so it will fit on the lathe and then reattach the cut off piece using glue and a smaller dowel. The cut part will be below deck and never seen.
Does this sound feasible?

John

 

[Y.T.]

I would not hesitate at all doing this.

 

[Bryian]

I use my cordless drill for tapering masts with sandpaper. Quick and effective.

 

[Graham]

Yes, I have done that myself.

 

[Y.T.]

By the way are you aware of how to make a mast without lathe from a square stock? This is almost how real mast were made.

7-10-7 method

Over in Dan Vadas build on MSW he says, "Construction starts by marking out the tapers using the 7-10-7 method." I haven't run across this before. Can anyone explain the 7-10-7 method to me?

shipsofscale.com

 

[Jimsky]

Personally, I don't see the problem. The only thing, I would use a metal dowel to interconnect both pieces. Mast partners or mast wedge will hold the tention of srouds and ratlines.

 

[Y.T.]

I would use a metal dowel to interconnect both pieces.

This would be needed for real life size ship. For a model it does not matter. Do it wood or metal. Both good enough.

 

[whiskers]

Thanks guys I was pretty sure it would work but it’s nice to have confidence before doing.

 

[fourseas]

I was forced to use this method one time when I had a mast broken off above the deck. I used a metal rod placed in the centre which worked very well. Keep your cats and children away from your models

 

[Y.T.]

I use my cordless drill for tapering masts with sandpaper. Quick and effective.

This is also how I do my masts and spars. I use Makita corded drill. The finished ends of masts and spars I wrap in a few turns of masking tape so the drill chuck does not damage the wood.

 

[Don Case]

I had to turn a mast for one of my RC sailboats. I took the tailstock off the lathe and mounted a bracket to the wall. I drilled a small hole in the bracket in the right spot and stuck the free end of the mast through the hole. Presto, an extendable tail stock. For this kind of work it doesn't have to be that accurate. You may need to cobble up a steady rest if it's too long.

 

[Thomas]

Thanks guys I was pretty sure it would work but it’s nice to have confidence before doing.Y

You're approach will certainly work, but using a drill for longer masts/spars is an equally good solution. I prefer the drill method because it seems easier to get a good smooth taper.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

I have a Proxxon wood lathe for this purpose. It allows you to put a rod in the lathe that is longer than the bed. I used to do it by hand, but found myself getting fed up so I turned to a machine. It seems to work fine for me except for really small diameter dowels. Have to be more gentle in that case.
This was my solution.

 

[kuba91nt]

I have a Proxxon wood lathe for this purpose. It allows you to put a rod in the lathe that is longer than the bed. I used to do it by hand, but found myself getting fed up so I turned to a machine. It seems to work fine for me except for really small diameter dowels. Have to be more gentle in that case.
This was my solution.

I agree. Sometimes a regular drill is better. The hole in the Proxxon DB250 is only 10 mm, but it is not a problem, even with a clamp holder it works well. The center of the mast is often bruised or crushed, so I wrap the clamping area gently with paper tape and it's ok.

 

[Vfordyce]

I just added an extra inch on the dowel and cut it off later.

 

[Norgale]

I wouldn't do it that way. As soon as you cut the dowel you lose strength at that cut. You can glue it back together but then cath it with your arm or something and snaparooo and it busted at the glue joint. I put masking tape wrapped around one end of the dowel and chuck it into an electric drill. Then rotate the mast at low RPM's on sandpaper until it's the way you want it. No reduced strength in the mast like that. Cutting the dowel would be my very last desperate option.