I'm asking this because I'm dealing with some issues resulting from a warped keel. I thought i had fixed keel but it turns out the bend came back so now it's too late. I have read some cut out new keel from other materials....any thoughts on this issue ? NEXT ship I build WILL be straight. I'm pretty sure I could make a good copy...
Ouch! Is the keel built into the model yet or still a loose part? If it is loose then you are on the right track to cut a new part. If already built into the model there may be ways to use reinforcing braces to help straighten the part but we would need a photo or three to assist with that. The warp may be a defective piece of wood with a grain twist. Get some strip wood of the dimensions needed for a new keel and cut a new part.
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All depends. Is the warping Port/Starboard or top to bottom? If the former, you can try and soak the piece in warm water and place between two pieces of tempered glass if available. Let it air dry and check it. This method, I've found to be hit or miss. It all depends on the wood, the warped piece.
The first time I was not able to straighten a warped piece I dreaded making a replacement. Only afterwards did I realize my replacement piece was actually better than the original piece that came with the kit. This was when I realized the problem became an opportunity that I was able to take advantage of. My introduction to scratch building small elements was born out of addressing a problem. I still only scratch build elements where I think I can make a significant improvement over the supplied piece. But now I don't think twice about it. It's only wood after all and if I screw up a piece I'm making, I just go get another piece of wood and start again.
Good Luck!
The first time I was not able to straighten a warped piece I dreaded making a replacement. Only afterwards did I realize my replacement piece was actually better than the original piece that came with the kit. This was when I realized the problem became an opportunity that I was able to take advantage of. My introduction to scratch building small elements was born out of addressing a problem. I still only scratch build elements where I think I can make a significant improvement over the supplied piece. But now I don't think twice about it. It's only wood after all and if I screw up a piece I'm making, I just go get another piece of wood and start again.
Good Luck!
If you decide to make a new keel, my favorite material is aircraft (5 layer plywood. I use this for all of my bulkheads also. To hide the the exposed edge of the keel, I glue on a strip of 1/32" hardwood planking material
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I hardly ever use the frame parts from the kit.
I copy them on a 4/5 mm plywood (according scale) and then cut them with a fine electric saw.
False keel and frames. Then I copy the false cover in 1,2mm plywood and cut it out.
I mark the thickness of the false keel on the deck (4/5mm) and draw it.
With pieces of board I stick them on both sides of the keel mark, between the ribs.
Without gluing anything, I still assemble everything; false keel, wedged between the frame pieces and false deck
I mount everything between brackets nailed to a shipyard between the frames, so that everything is straight and without deviation.
Then I carefully nail the frames to the flat cover starting with the main frame and on one side and the other.
When I see that everything is ok, with a brush and white glue I daub all the joints.
Let dry and repeat several times. Then I put between the frames (without removing from the shipyard), pieces of wood of 10x10mm. sticking them. I let it dry well without hurry and everything is fine most of the time.
A gift
My plans of the cutter ALDEBARAN.
They are free to print in A3
I copy them on a 4/5 mm plywood (according scale) and then cut them with a fine electric saw.
False keel and frames. Then I copy the false cover in 1,2mm plywood and cut it out.
I mark the thickness of the false keel on the deck (4/5mm) and draw it.
With pieces of board I stick them on both sides of the keel mark, between the ribs.
Without gluing anything, I still assemble everything; false keel, wedged between the frame pieces and false deck
I mount everything between brackets nailed to a shipyard between the frames, so that everything is straight and without deviation.
Then I carefully nail the frames to the flat cover starting with the main frame and on one side and the other.
When I see that everything is ok, with a brush and white glue I daub all the joints.
Let dry and repeat several times. Then I put between the frames (without removing from the shipyard), pieces of wood of 10x10mm. sticking them. I let it dry well without hurry and everything is fine most of the time.
A gift
My plans of the cutter ALDEBARAN.
They are free to print in A3
Very nice, well crafted plans. Thanks for posting.
I tried to straighten it by extending between ends and putting weight on bow of wood to bend in opposite direction of warp...it did flatten but warp returned. I was hoping to find substitute material stiffer than thin plywood that glues and sands well. I even wonder if getting jig type build cradle will help with warped wood..best bet in my mind is bulkheads and keel made from something that doesn't warp. Just don't know what that is.
Boat half built now but for next time...
Boat half built now but for next time...
