HIS Model (link can be found on the home page from our sponsors) has a nice block and rigging kit available (with plans), but that will double the cost of the kit.The cannons with mine are also wood. They are bass plywood and thick enough, I think. But they would (wood!) still be square if used. So I think I'll look around for alternatives eventually. Right now, I'm still trying to get through planking (time)! And I think I'd like to detail the look with staining a bit. I have dabbled in model trains somewhat and there I really latched on to the idea of "prototyping" (AKA making the model true to the subject). But I think this Harvey model is not actually that close to a real-world Cutter and so I think I may take liberates with making more of an eye appealing display piece.
I'm still VERY intimidated about the rigging aspect! The hull is wood, so I've not experienced many issues with it. But the ropes? That will be new territory.
M.
I tried a "test stain" using one of the cannon trucks and think I found that the PVA used to assemble them might have interfered with the tinting. HELP! I thought to use some localized stain and then boiled linseed oil as a finish (on the hull, at least). Is PVA not going to be penetrated by those two?
To show your location, you click on your profile in the upper right of the screen and go to "Account Details" and fill in the "Location" field.Thanks. What you wrote makes sense. And though it is disappointing (to me right now) I guess I will have to find another way.
The idea of painting is not as appealing to me as staining since I love the natural grain of wood appearance through stain and other translucent finishes. So I've been noodling about the idea of a brown acrylic wash instead of stain. But I think that would have the same problem of "whiting out" wherever PVA was already in place. And saturating anything water based where PVA is in play would also cause the PVA to also soften/loosen, right?
I guess I am looking for a tinted finish that covers PVA infused wood similarly to bare wood? Would a tinted shellac do that? I've never worked with shellac, let alone tried tinting it before. But this whole project is a test platform so I guess I could try anything that is suggested.
PS. I'm also in SW Ohio and was wondering how to have my location show up?
Thanks Corsair!To show your location, you click on your profile in the upper right of the screen and go to "Account Details" and fill in the "Location" field.
Thanks. What you wrote makes sense. And though it is disappointing (to me right now) I guess I will have to find another way.
The idea of painting is not as appealing to me as staining since I love the natural grain of wood appearance through stain and other translucent finishes. So I've been noodling about the idea of a brown acrylic wash instead of stain. But I think that would have the same problem of "whiting out" wherever PVA was already in place. And saturating anything water based where PVA is in play would also cause the PVA to also soften/loosen, right?
I guess I am looking for a tinted finish that covers PVA infused wood similarly to bare wood? Would a tinted shellac do that? I've never worked with shellac, let alone tried tinting it before. But this whole project is a test platform so I guess I could try anything that is suggested.
PS. I'm also in SW Ohio and was wondering how to have my location show up?
Diluted PVA glue works best for rigging knots because it stays pliable, and if the knot is flexed, the fibers of the line won't break before the glue stretches. PVA has a hard time locking knots in poly line and won't stick to it well at all, so it is less effective for that. You might have to use CA for knots on that line, but for linen or cotton line, PVA works great.Good to know. Thanks.
What do you recommend for locking rigging knots? I'm assuming I will get to that point and have "visions" of giving up around then...
I've used thin CA for years with balsa. The waterier the better. It bonds balsa model plane arts instantly. So no dry time to speak of (also when dripped onto baking powder it creates a nearly machinable plastic). I tried that on these bass wood parts at first and found that it did nothing. It basically ran along the surface rather than instantly soaking in like it does with balsa. So I guess it is because it was thin CA and not a thicker version? I've never used CA that was more jellified.
Southish of Dayton. You?
I'm In Germantown. I only work in Miamisburg! West side of 75 off of Austin. A little place known as Yaskawa. It's the US HQ of their robotics unit.Yup, they make CA's in a few different consistencies... thin, gap-filling, gel, etc.
Now this is getting funny... Southish of Dayton as well. I'm in Miamisburg. I usually don't put that because nobody knows where the heck it is, and I hate listing Dayton, because second to Youngstown, I consider it the "other" armpit of Ohio.
I'm In Germantown. I only work in Miamisburg! West side of 75 off of Austin. A little place known as Yaskawa. It's the US HQ of their robotics unit.