Silver solder

Don Case said:
Good stuff! A related question, does silver solder blacken better than soft solder?
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Hi Don,
I think either soft or silver solder will blacken successfully with the right product.

I haven't tried silver solder paste, I flatten the silver solder rod with a hammer to thin it out then cut with side cutters a small amount that is then placed on the joint with some flux.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Fish&Chip said:
Hi Thomas, you put some great infos here, So thanks. However, I have difficulty to read the yellow inscriptions on your pictures, Could you just put the writing below in order of pics presentation, so we will be able to read it better ?

Thanks in advance,

Michel
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I made the change, it is true that it was not very readable. All my excuses.
 
Wonderful post just made for me. I am in the process of learning to use hard silver solder. All i can stay is that its getting better. To say that you should only use soft solder is a bit miss leading. Thats fine if you are only making one solder joint to the piece, but if you are making more than one attachment, soft solder is a Problem. Also if you have to shape the piece using any type of power tool, heat generated from it can cause the soft solder to melt. This was my problem making pintles for the Thorn. I would say thet medium and soft silver solders are a necessary part of building parts for model ships.
i have also been using the many jewelry videos on youTube to learn the skill. There are lots of excellent ones. then there is buying the correct tools to make all this happen. Its been an expensive venture but i am learning so much and feel so much more confident as my modeling skills improve.

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Kerz Atao F14800 said:
Hello,
To make welded joints I always use 40% silver solder.
For small assemblies I file solder rods and I collect the filings obtained.
I apply the liquid stripper flux to the joint to be brazed and I put some filings on it. All that remains is to heat the assembly and the solder will go to the right place by capillarity.
It is necessary to put just the bare minimum of material to obtain a good solder.
To obtain a good result, the assemblies must be perfectly adjusted.
Try it, it's worth it. :cool:
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I tried it, it was worth it :). I couldn't get the file method to work as fast as I wanted so I used my belt sander. The vacuum cleaner attachment is my dust extraction port. The yogurt cup got well over 75% of the filings and the white sheet collected most of the rest, I think. Then I mixed it with borax flux and put it in an old hypo. I tried it on some 26 gauge copper for stropping this 5mm deadeye. I was pleased with the joint and it blackened nicely. I have a butane micro torch that I tried but it wasn't hot enough, (I guess I have hard silver solder) so I used my oxy acetylene torch. It's rather cumbersome so I've ordered a little jewellers torch from Amazon.ca. So I'm happy with my results so far. Thanks for all the clues.



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Stevedownunder said:
Hi Don,
I think either soft or silver solder will blacken successfully with the right product.

I haven't tried silver solder paste, I flatten the silver solder rod with a hammer to thin it out then cut with side cutters a small amount that is then placed on the joint with some flux.

Cheers,
Stephen.
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I will try this, thanks Stephen.
 
Kevin, thanks for your response, I have watched all of your videos more than once. Thanks for them. Your thread is bookmarked on my computer right under Dan Vadas build. Only "right under" because Dan's build is finished so I can look ahead on it. You and I and Stuglo are at roughly the same stage in our builds so I can check your work and see if I have to redo something. :)
 
Hi,

Could you post butane torch suggestions that work well for the purpose ? Pleaaaaase. The ones that I look for now is Lexivon and Proxxon, but maybe there is another good buy.

Michel
 
This is what I have. It is a very handy tool but not hot enough for the silver solder that I have. The write-up that I found on the net says that it has a max temp of 2500F and 900F for soldering. I'm not sure what that actually means. The 2500 sounds like a pipe dream to me. 900 is more realistic.

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Don Case said:
Kevin, thanks for your response, I have watched all of your videos more than once. Thanks for them. Your thread is bookmarked on my computer right under Dan Vadas build. Only "right under" because Dan's build is finished so I can look ahead on it. You and I and Stuglo are at roughly the same stage in our builds so I can check your work and see if I have to redo something. :)
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Don I am struggling to get the bands on the top of the rudder soldered. One of them has to be done on the rudder and i have tried and failed so many times. If i continue i will end up burning the wood so i have decided to stick this one with epoxy. The other two i will use soft silver solder.
 
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