Shellac as glue

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I'm about to glue in a couple of guns. Unfortunately I've already shellacked the deck. I've heard that PVA has an iffy hold on finished surfaces so I was planning on using CA. Then it occurred to me that maybe a drop of shellac on each wheel of the carriage may work quite well to hold it in place. It would allow me to release the guns with just a drop of alcohol if necessary and I would not have a lump of CA to deal with. But, does shellac work well in the long run as glue in low stress areas like this?
 
I tried it and it didn't stick well. I think my shellac is too thin. I'm sure it would stick if it was thicker but I don't have any more flakes to make a thicker batch. I was more concerned with the longevity if anyone had tried it.
 
I know people have used baking soda with thin CA to glue things together. I wonder if baking soda or something else would work in a similar manner with Shellac?
 
I always varnish my deck before fitting my cannon carriages and fittings but I also drill and insert a thin brass rod vertical through the underside of the carriage into the deck. (if you follow what I'm saying ). I then use thick Cyno to glue the ends of the brass rod before fitting.
It adds considerable strength and cannot be seen after installation.
 
I wouldn’t put much stock in using shellac as an adhesive. Shellac by its nature is sticky but that’s where it ends. The carriage would hold for some time I assume but it sure isn’t glue. I agree with Bryians advice: peg the carriage to the deck with glue and it won’t be going anywhere.
 
I'm about to glue in a couple of guns. Unfortunately I've already shellacked the deck. I've heard that PVA has an iffy hold on finished surfaces so I was planning on using CA. Then it occurred to me that maybe a drop of shellac on each wheel of the carriage may work quite well to hold it in place. It would allow me to release the guns with just a drop of alcohol if necessary and I would not have a lump of CA to deal with. But, does shellac work well in the long run as glue in low stress areas like this?
It should work. But the bond will only last a couple hundred years as long as you keep it cased, out of the sun or UV and in a climate controlled environment.
 
Don, as Bryian wrote :

"I always varnish my deck before fitting my cannon carriages and fittings but I also drill and insert a thin brass rod vertical through the underside of the carriage into the deck. (if you follow what I'm saying ). I then use thick Cyno to glue the ends of the brass rod before fitting.
It adds considerable strength and cannot be seen after installation".

I also use the same method : instead of using glue, it's more durable and cleaner to install the carriages with one or two thin brass pins on a vertical position.
Mechanical retential is much stronger than any type of glue, invisible, and does not tend to come off over the years, due to the effects of U.V., humidity, heat, etc, on the glues.
 
I'm about to glue in a couple of guns. Unfortunately I've already shellacked the deck. I've heard that PVA has an iffy hold on finished surfaces so I was planning on using CA. Then it occurred to me that maybe a drop of shellac on each wheel of the carriage may work quite well to hold it in place. It would allow me to release the guns with just a drop of alcohol if necessary and I would not have a lump of CA to deal with. But, does shellac work well in the long run as glue in low stress areas like this?
I've used PVA for 30 years without problems. Increase stability by some sanding flat of wheels. For me it even sticks to a deck already treated with tung oil. I only use CA as a temporary hold while the PVA dries on parts under tension or clamping is difficult
 
All methods are good.
But
If you want an 5 th generation hand- me- down model or for a collector buyer. You need acid free and time measured glue.

Pin and glue is a double reassuring method. Glue is too unstable.
Please watch metal and wood mixtures…

Samuel Peps time saw a modern blossoming of thinking.
Before - this time much is being researched and found we lost much.

If you are into bonding methods
Contact the manufacturers and ask for there technical information : what they stick too, colour, paint over, bonding time, how long bonding lasts before deteriorating etc….
 
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