Royal Yacht HMY Fubbs (1682-1781) – 1:24 Scale Stern Section by DocBlake

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Royal Yacht HMY Fubbs (1682-1781) – 1:24 Scale Stern Section by DocBlake

This will be my build log for a 1:24 scale stern section of the HMY Fubbs. Fubbs was one of many Royal Yachts commissioned by King Charles II of England during the Stuart Restoration. The name derives from a nickname Charles had for his mistress, the Duchess of Portsmouth. Details of her history and drawings of the kit plans and contents can be found elsewhere. The reader is directed to build logs by Mike41: https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...s-1-24-stern-section.12274/page-3#post-319673 ) and Dematosdg: https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/1682-hmy-fubbs-1-24-stern-section.12274/

The model will be built as a limited edition kit produced by Weasel Works. In all there were 10 kits and Mike Shanks' prototype produced. There are over 900 parts in each kit, with some options for personalizing the builds (such as choice of timber for framing, etc.) Even with all the frame parts removed from their billets to save shipping costs, my kit weighed in at 13 pounds!

Weasel Works a group of modelers with different interests and skills We are not a business at all. We are exploring what modern technology can bring to the table in model ship building.

There are ten kits produced, as well as Mike Shank's prototype. We have no plans to sell or produce any more.

Our goal is to produce an attractive model that's fun to build. We are not historians nor naval architects, and accordingly, have allowed ourselves some artistic license. Although based on the 1682 version of Fubbs, details from other points in her history have been incorporated into the model, and her framing is not historically accurate, but does reflect well her hull's shape. Although the Great Cabin's floor cover was most probably painted canvas, we felt the parquet floor was a nice addition to the model, so we kept it in. The transom design was from later in her career.

My frames are hard maple, cut out by CNC. Advantage: No laser char. Disadvantage: bevel lines not etched for the bevel, so each piece requires a template to be carefully cut out and rubber cemented to the frame piece, then bevelled then cleaned of residual paper and cement. Mind numbing. There are over 100 frame parts.


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Good start Dave. Without the char it is less messy, but you still have a lot of sanding to do. I am sure this will be another fine model to add to your collection.

Mike
 
Thanks for looking in, guys!
I began the actual construction of the model by assembling frame 25. This is the fore-most of the frames and the only one whose cross section is visible. Originally designed with butt joints, these were changed to scarf joints which more accurately reflect shipbuilding conventions of the time. I enhanced the scarfs with a little flat black acrylic paint.
The bevels on frame 25 are infinitesimal. I didn't pre-bevel the parts. That can easily be done after the hull is glued together.
Next came frame 25A. The bevels on the top timbers especially are very subtle. Oddly, these small adjustments are harder than the big angles we'll encounter further aft. I used a Dremel with a 1/2" drum and coarse sand paper. The problem here is that in forming the bevel. it's easy to take too much off near and up to the the non-beveled edge, making a rounded surface. To prevent that I put some painters tape on the final 3/16" of the surface I was sanding which warned me to be careful not to "round over" the surface. It worked well. As you can see, the bevel came right up to the unbeveled edge without actually crossing it. Laser char can work the same way.


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Me too! Got beer?

Fubbs. That's another of one of those almost Dickensian English names of the Restoration period, Like Pepys (pronounced "Peeps", like those yellow marshmallow Easter candy chicks.);)

Pete
 
Royal Yacht HMY Fubbs (1682-1781) – 1:24 Scale Stern Section by DocBlake

This will be my build log for a 1:24 scale stern section of the HMY Fubbs. Fubbs was one of many Royal Yachts commissioned by King Charles II of England during the Stuart Restoration. The name derives from a nickname Charles had for his mistress, the Duchess of Portsmouth. Details of her history and drawings of the kit plans and contents can be found elsewhere. The reader is directed to build logs by Mike41: https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...s-1-24-stern-section.12274/page-3#post-319673 ) and Dematosdg: https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/1682-hmy-fubbs-1-24-stern-section.12274/

The model will be built as a limited edition kit produced by Weasel Works. In all there were 10 kits and Mike Shanks' prototype produced. There are over 900 parts in each kit, with some options for personalizing the builds (such as choice of timber for framing, etc.) Even with all the frame parts removed from their billets to save shipping costs, my kit weighed in at 13 pounds!

Weasel Works a group of modelers with different interests and skills We are not a business at all. We are exploring what modern technology can bring to the table in model ship building.

There are ten kits produced, as well as Mike Shank's prototype. We have no plans to sell or produce any more.

Our goal is to produce an attractive model that's fun to build. We are not historians nor naval architects, and accordingly, have allowed ourselves some artistic license. Although based on the 1682 version of Fubbs, details from other points in her history have been incorporated into the model, and her framing is not historically accurate, but does reflect well her hull's shape. Although the Great Cabin's floor cover was most probably painted canvas, we felt the parquet floor was a nice addition to the model, so we kept it in. The transom design was from later in her career.

My frames are hard maple, cut out by CNC. Advantage: No laser char. Disadvantage: bevel lines not etched for the bevel, so each piece requires a template to be carefully cut out and rubber cemented to the frame piece, then bevelled then cleaned of residual paper and cement. Mind numbing. There are over 100 frame parts.


View attachment 387605
Hello Dave, Your frames look great, Well done. I also chose hard maple. But I will not be able to start my kit before Oct. as I still have my YQ Bluenose to complete first. I do have a question fore you and that is do you use the spray on rubber cement or the paint on kind? Thanks.
Regards Lawrence
 
Thanks for looking in, guys!
I began the actual construction of the model by assembling frame 25. This is the fore-most of the frames and the only one whose cross section is visible. Originally designed with butt joints, these were changed to scarf joints which more accurately reflect shipbuilding conventions of the time. I enhanced the scarfs with a little flat black acrylic paint.
The bevels on frame 25 are infinitesimal. I didn't pre-bevel the parts. That can easily be done after the hull is glued together.
Next came frame 25A. The bevels on the top timbers especially are very subtle. Oddly, these small adjustments are harder than the big angles we'll encounter further aft. I used a Dremel with a 1/2" drum and coarse sand paper. The problem here is that in forming the bevel. it's easy to take too much off near and up to the the non-beveled edge, making a rounded surface. To prevent that I put some painters tape on the final 3/16" of the surface I was sanding which warned me to be careful not to "round over" the surface. It worked well. As you can see, the bevel came right up to the unbeveled edge without actually crossing it. Laser char can work the same way.


View attachment 387844View attachment 387845View attachment 387846

Please tell me how you used the paint, Doc . . .
 
Very Instructive and helpful as I am currently tapering the bulkheads for the"Flying Cloud" It is, indeed, easy to round off the taper, especially at the uppermost part of the bulkhead. I used a Dremel drum at first but had the most success with the drum end of my benchtop belt sander, going very gently and slowly with a well-worn 220 grit sanding belt. These older "worn out" belts prove very useful and controllable for delicate operations. Just make sure there's enough grit left so as to not burn what you are sanding. Frequent use of a sticky rubber belt cleaning bar is recommended. These greatly extend the useful life of any sanding belt (or any sandpaper, block or drum).
I plan to fill in in between the bulkheads with blocks of balsa to get a nice fair hull surface to plank against. It carves and sands easily and can be easily partially sealed for gluing down the planks. I want it to still be porous enough to make a mechanical bond for whatever glue I use.
Thanks for a very clear and helpful description of your process, Doc!
 
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