Questions and Worries about Keel Clamps

rlwhitt

rlwhitt

Joined
Nov 29, 2022
Messages
85
Points
113

Location
Clemmons, NC
Hi All,

I am thinking about using a keel clamp. When I look at them a few questions come to mind that cause me concern.

1. What's the chance of the keel breaking? Especially if you tilt the boat such that the keel is under lateral stress, and even more so as stuff is added and the hull becomes heavier? Some clamps run the length of the keel and those look somewhat safer than for example the Amati Klamper that has just the 2 smaller clamps. I actually like the Amati as those clamps can rotate and it looks like it'd be pretty easy to thus clamp the tops of the bulkheads with the hull upside down for lower planking. But I have concerns that this clamp might only be appropriate for small (light) models.

2. Looks like there may be trouble with copper sheeting if you clamped a hull thus treated - looks like you'd maybe mangle those plates on the keel. I'd say wait and put those on last but it seems most instructions start the plating from the keel. Perhaps a bit of padding of some sort in the clamp(s)? I'd be interested in anyone who's tried clamps on a coppered keel.

3. Back to the Amati clamp, has anyone investigated whether you can buy extra sliding clamp parts? Might alleviate some of the capacity concerns.

Thanks for you indulgence!
 
For a while I was holding the Discovery by the keel in my vice and then one day I heard a "crack". Fortunealtly it just cracked and some CA rectified the problem. I haven't held the ship by the keel since. Cutting the rabbet really weakens the keel.
 
Yeah, that's exactly what I'm afraid of. I'm thinking a good modification would be able to fashion some sort of cradles to put into the clamp that would more safely hold the hull. I'm still enamored of the idea of the gimbal feature of the clamps to get the hull into any sort of position to work on.
 
I have one and don't use it. It's a pain the tighten loosen to move the boat around and I've damaged the keel putting too much pressure on the model while working on it. It is too stationary for the way I work.

I do have a foam cradle (think I bought from Micro-Mark that I really like and it's a lot cheaper. Here's a link:
www.micromark.com

Triple Duty Foam Cradle for Models and Ships

DetailsPerfect for .027 scale tinplate trains, too! Holds model gently while painting, gluing, building, decorating, and repairingConcave shape holds large scale modelsConvex shape to work on ship hullsCNC-cut foam rubber
www.micromark.com www.micromark.com
85819_R-1.jpg
 
I use the foam one's too. There is also a smaller version for 1/700 and one for 1/350 scale plastic ships or train cars too. No fear of marring a paint job either.
 
That foam idea looks promising, at least for an inexpensive start. I'd considered pool noodles, but this looks a bit more flexible.

I'm getting an idea together for a workstation using a height adjustable rolling laptop stand as a table with some sort of hull holder on it.
 
The foam cradle is $20 plus shipping. It was well worth the investment for flexibility and for protecting the finish on the hull.
 
Yo o también uso la cuna de espuma o hago una cuna de madera provisional, en ningún caso trabajo cargando la quilla, pues lo mas seguro es que acabe quebrándose.
 
I have used keel clamps for early stages of hull construction only, they help to keep the keel straight when adding first few battens or wales but after the majority of planks are installed, its gets to heavy to safely clamp by keel only.
 
Thanks for the responses guys. It seems the consensus supports my fears, and it looks like I'll be better off with some sort of cradle arrangment. Makes sense to start with that nifty foam one and see where it takes me.
 
One other point on this discussion is the size of the ship being clamped!

A large ships hull has a totally different weight and leverage when tilted than a small longboat or small craft such as a day sailer or lobster smack.
 
I used a homemade keel clamp which can be repositioned and locked down for rigging work. The model can be leaned to 30 degrees in any direction without too much stress. It did not pose a risk to the model because the plywood false keel also makes up the keel of the model at the bottom, so the keel is not a separate piece attached to the hull. That makes it integral to the hull and very strong. Since this hull was light, not having balsa blocks between the bulkheads, risk of breaking off the keel was minimal. This model is also a bit smaller, being 1:100 scale. You have to judge for yourself if a keel vice can work safely with your model.

1309-progress-so-far-jpg.191734
 
I used an Amati keel clamp during the very early stages of my Syren build. Then changed over to a chunk of foam that came as part of boxed computer packaging. The foam happened to be a perfect size at 6”x3”x22”. I hacked out a rough hull shape and have used it for a while now. Much more secure and helps hold the model in place as I rotate it, turn it, invert it and so on. Foam cost $0, computer cost $o_O.

An earlier photo:

5117F4FE-8E70-4CDC-9651-C7ACBD342955.jpeg
 
Fletch Dog said:
I have one and don't use it. It's a pain the tighten loosen to move the boat around and I've damaged the keel putting too much pressure on the model while working on it. It is too stationary for the way I work.

I do have a foam cradle (think I bought from Micro-Mark that I really like and it's a lot cheaper. Here's a link:
www.micromark.com

Triple Duty Foam Cradle for Models and Ships

DetailsPerfect for .027 scale tinplate trains, too! Holds model gently while painting, gluing, building, decorating, and repairingConcave shape holds large scale modelsConvex shape to work on ship hullsCNC-cut foam rubber
www.micromark.com www.micromark.com
85819_R-1.jpg
Click to expand...
I use this foam cradle too. I’ve built two ships with it and I’m working on a third.
 
rlwhitt said:
That foam idea looks promising, at least for an inexpensive start. I'd considered pool noodles, but this looks a bit more flexible.

I'm getting an idea together for a workstation using a height adjustable rolling laptop stand as a table with some sort of hull holder on it.
Click to expand...
I use the foam too. It has 2 inserts of different thicknesses so you can adjust what you're holding. Works great.
I'm interested to see what you come up with for an adjustable height stand. I find myself needing one. Right now I end up stacking books to get the model to a comfortable height to work at, but something adjustable would be nice.
 
rlwhitt said:
That foam idea looks promising, at least for an inexpensive start. I'd considered pool noodles, but this looks a bit more flexible.

I'm getting an idea together for a workstation using a height adjustable rolling laptop stand as a table with some sort of hull holder on it.
Click to expand...
My work stool gives me all the height adjustment I need.
 
Kramer said:
I use the foam too. It has 2 inserts of different thicknesses so you can adjust what you're holding. Works great.
I'm interested to see what you come up with for an adjustable height stand. I find myself needing one. Right now I end up stacking books to get the model to a comfortable height to work at, but something adjustable would be nice.
Click to expand...

Something like this is my plan:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXPFSBZ...olid=2KLMAYUTJVQFB&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

height adjustable, locking wheels, just move it aside when not needed.
 
In a small shop like mine, shorter hulled, lighter weight models (20 inch max hull length — ex rigging) the Amati keel clamper is a must. Used one for years including coppered hulls. Rigging has to be done outside the shop on a desk in the living room. Bigger heavier models? No experience with them. The clamper might cause problems with them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top