Prince de Neufchâtel rigging

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Need help with older constructo model prince de Neufchâtel. Plans numbering system seems to have errors and numbered line not going to any specific location and not to belay pins.
 
Hi Fritz. I’m rigging a MGS Prince de Neufchâtel. Here are pics of the rigging plans.
 

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Hi Fritz. I’m rigging a MGS Prince de Neufchâtel. Here are pics of the rigging plans.
Thanks. I do have the plans. My problem is that some of the lines and the ones from the yards come down the mast to what appears to be a set of blocks at base of mast which I can do. However, the line running in the blocks comes out but the plan does not show where it ties off and there are no belay pins around the mast. mine is an old Constructo.
 

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Thanks. I do have the plans. My problem is that some of the lines and the ones from the yards come down the mast to what appears to be a set of blocks at base of mast which I can do. However, the line running in the blocks comes out but the plan does not show where it ties off and there are no belay pins around the mast. mine is an old Constructo.
My MGS kit came with 2 halves of white metal belay pin racks around each mast. 6 pins per rack. There are 4 eyes on the deck in a square pattern behind each mast for Burton Pendants to be tied to the mast racks. Hope this helps.
 
My MGS kit came with 2 halves of white metal belay pin racks around each mast. 6 pins per rack. There are 4 eyes on the deck in a square pattern behind each mast for Burton Pendants to be tied to the mast racks. Hope this helps.
Thanks. Nice work and appreciate the ideas. I may try to design a belay pin rack around the base of the mast. My other idea was to tie it off on the higher of the 2 blocks in the diagram.
 
Hi Fritz. I’m rigging a MGS Prince de Neufchâtel. Here are pics of the rigging plans.
Jaybird,
Thanks for the plans! I got them yesterday. They will be a big help. Your plans appear to be in 1:48 scale, (although they say 1:50), and my Model Shipways kit is in 1:64. But it will be no problem scaling the sail plans. And the most important part, the pin belay plan, doesn't depend on any scale anyway. I can now move forward confident of a successful rigging.
 
Does anyone have plans for constructing this whole project? I had recent received on with everything but the plans.
 
The problem with the plans I have is that they are not clear on how and where some of the lines terminate. I had to use previous experience. Big problem were linesterminating at the base of the mast. Not enough belay pins. I’ll try to show photos of my complete model
 
Thanks. I love the copper hull. I use the copper covered tape they sell at hobby lobby. I cut it to 5” and use a sewing wheel they sell at Joann’s. It has a handle about as long as a toothbrush but it has a small metal wheel with spikes. My wife use it to mark fabrics without using a pen. I put the copper tape face down on some soft wood and using a smaller ruler as a guide. Not to much pressure or you’ll punch through the paper tape and the thin copper. After done when you flip over you will see what looks like rivets. Should look like braille bumps. I run the wheel on both edges of the copper tape and then about every 1/2” across the tape. It will look line of copper plates. You can use 5” strips and cut to fit smaller areas. I polyethylene the hull to prevent tape peeling off down the years.
 
I have a general question/issue with the "rivets". Would they even be visible at scale?
A while back I saw a photo, taken by one of the contributors, of the coppered bottom of the restored actual Cutty Sark. The copper plates looked almost perfectly smooth from just a few feet away. Also, the rivet dimples get flattened as they are hammered into place.
In the section on metal sheathing in William L Crother's book "The American Built Clipper Ship", the interior portions of each copper plate have at least five off-set rows of nine or more rivets (making an interesting pattern of diagonal lines), along with those bordering the edges of each plate.

Enough quibbling! Your technique has produced a most beautiful result. I find it very instructive and successful. The use of the pounce wheel with a ruler is very exacting and clever, as is your whole process and command of materials and how to use them to great effect. Well done Thumbsup !

Pete
 
Since the copper has a sticky back just remove the tape back and stick it where you want and it’s a little forgiving to move. The rivets produced can be felt. The painted clear coat will protect the work
 
People will see the riveting work even at a distance. The wheel with the small points give a pretty close scale and I find it better and cheaper then the individual copper plates.
 
People will see the riveting work even at a distance. The wheel with the small points give a pretty close scale and I find it better and cheaper then the individual copper plates.
Your finished product looks really fine. and thanks for sharing your technique and experience! Thumbsup :D
 
Need help with older constructo model prince de Neufchâtel. Plans numbering system seems to have errors and numbered line not going to any specific location and not to belay pins.
Hallo @Fritz
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
 
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