My First Wooden Ship Model, "Halcon, 1:100 scale"

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Ajmitch51

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My first ever venture into wooden model ships. It started out with "oh, that looks interesting when I saw the Halcon kit advertised for around GB£15 back in 2013. It got put away as we were moving house and resurfaced in May last year.
I was soon to discover that this was a cheap and nasty version of the kit. Having discovered this website and of members having similar experience with the Halcon.
I binned the cheap kit and bought another that cost me about GB£45. The kit was complete and had decent instructions.
Keeping track of other member's Halcon builds, I discovered the HisModel website in the Czech Republic. That set me off on wanting to make my model as realistic as possible, with rigging blocks and a great rigging diagram.
This led to me doing loads of research into ship builds and rigging from different periods.
My little ship finally left the shipyard last week and now, my wife has it displayed in our lounge window.
It's not a pretty sight. I made lots of mistakes. Broke it many times, with subsequent rework. The worst thing though, was wrong glue that I used on the ropes. (Rocket Hot - cyano glue). It was extremely fast setting, which was great, but the rope just soaked it up and ended up rigid. I will not make that mistake with my next ship.
So, apologies for such a messy model. It won't happen again.20230605_202401.jpg
 
You actually did a very good job for a first! I think every one of us can remember back to our first ship model and all the mistakes we made. We learned the lessons! Welcome to the hobby and jump into your next model. On the rigging, try CA gel next time…doesn’t wick into the thread as bad. Well done!
 
Well done on your first model. I find I am always learning new approaches as I do more models and the advice of others on this forum really helps. Good luck with your next build.
 
A word on C.A. on non synthetic rope or natural fiber, paper or brass. I read a scientific treatise a few years back in the Nautical Research Journal on the effect of ca over time on those materials. Over time, ca. chemically converts to acid and will decay the above mentioned materials with very deleterious effect. Ultraviolet light exacerbates this problem, and even alone, causes decay of paint, natural fiber and other materials with alarming efficiency. For the sake of preserving your models it is best not to display them in windows ,or close to any source of natural light. Like the song says: "Keep it in a cool, dry place". (AJMitch51, You might want to rethink where you display you beautiful model.)
For sealing knots, or use with other natural fiber It is best to use white glue, or thinned clear matt medium(or any other acid free, archival adhesive). I know you won't get that instant tack, but your models won't fall apart either. At the USNA museum model workshop we use the above mentioned adhesives exclusively whenever the archival security is in question.
I'm not entirely sure how long ca will remain stable on wood either and I've used a lot of it on wood on my models. But by the time they fall apart , I'll be long dead.:rolleyes:
Remember, Models had been built for centuries without the benefit of ca, and have lasted for , well, centuries.

Pete
 
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Yes, I noticed the effect of the CA when it came into contact with the sail fabric - the result was smoke!
Thanks for the advice there Pete. I have Deluxe Materials "Super 'Phatic! Glue" , it's a white glue for wood , foam, carbon fibre etc. It is a penetrative glue though, so obviously not for the knots. Have you heard of that one?
Anyway, pI will make sure that I do the job right on my next one. She's in the shipyard with the false keel clamped in place right now. 1:98 scale HMS Victory.
 
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I use Testor's Plastic Model Glue for ribands, rigging knots, etc. & have not had a problem yet with my 6 yr. old models. It dries relatively fast, but not like ca. I may have problems in the future, but so far, so good. White glue would probably be better though!

Rick1011
 
I can't speak to the chemical stability of Testor's. But when given a choice, always use water soluble over chemical solvent, as a rule of thumb.
 
Pete- I'm just a plastic model builder, but research paint schemes & add as much correct rigging as I possibly can. Size is a big hindrance at times, but thanks to sites like this, & places like ModelExpo, I can get rigging blocks in scale fairly close if not correct. I started back building ships after breaking my hip 6 years ago, so I don't get around well enough to do the kind of woodwork you guys do. I wish I could! But I've found that Ships of Scale is chock-full of knowledge & tips from members that make the hobby more than worth it, plastic or wood!

Rick1011
 
Ya do watcha can wit watcha got!
There are some incredible super detailed plastic models in the USNA U.S. Navy museum display on the first floor collection. Made by some extraordinary master plastic modelers. Every bit as creative and impressive as anything made out of wood, or from scratch!
Sorry to hear about your hip! Sick .

Pete
 
As long as the Super Phatic glue is water, not solvent, based, the fact that it soaks into the knots is probably a virtue. See if it says "acid free". If it is, no problem.
 
I've not used the Super Phatic glue, but Aliphatic Resin that I have now. The Aliphatic Resin SDS says the components are 2-(3-Butoxyethoxy)ethyl acetate. On my new model, Mantua's 1:98 scale HMS Victory, I'm using white wood glue mainly anyway, only using the Aliphatic Resin where Mantua's instruction book tells me to.
 
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