MOVING

Damage to part-built models. Securing unbuilt kits.
Totally unbuilt kits are easy, just make sure the box is well sealed so you don't have any parts come out during the move and place the kit box inside a moving box. For moving boxes, go to Home Depot and get the heavy duty boxes they have for anything you think is fragile. For part built models where there are no small bits, you can pretty much just carefully wrap it and put it in the box with padding around it. For things where you have rigging installed is where things get tricky. The best way would be to work with some professionals and have them crate them. You can take a wood plank for the base that is larger overall width of the item. Cut some pool noodles in half and use them to support the hull on the base. Strap that item to the wood base so it stays and then build a crate around the item that only attaches to the base.

Be prepared, you will have things that sustain damage or come lose, but hopefully it will be minimal. :) I really hope that helps.
we just moved from Colorado to Florida, so I know how nerve-wracking it can be.

Jeff
 
Totally unbuilt kits are easy, just make sure the box is well sealed so you don't have any parts come out during the move and place the kit box inside a moving box. For moving boxes, go to Home Depot and get the heavy duty boxes they have for anything you think is fragile. For part built models where there are no small bits, you can pretty much just carefully wrap it and put it in the box with padding around it. For things where you have rigging installed is where things get tricky. The best way would be to work with some professionals and have them crate them. You can take a wood plank for the base that is larger overall width of the item. Cut some pool noodles in half and use them to support the hull on the base. Strap that item to the wood base so it stays and then build a crate around the item that only attaches to the base.

Be prepared, you will have things that sustain damage or come lose, but hopefully it will be minimal. :) I really hope that helps.
we just moved from Colorado to Florida, so I know how nerve-wracking it can be.

Jeff
Thanx for the advice. Some stuff can go in the trunk of my Ford. For my unfinushed(and not very good) efforts was thinking of makinf a thin plywood base equal to the shipping box and fill with popcorn packing. For the liquids I'm thinkng of sealing them with tape. Then again I may be worrying about nothing....
 
Thanx for the advice. Some stuff can go in the trunk of my Ford. For my unfinushed(and not very good) efforts was thinking of makinf a thin plywood base equal to the shipping box and fill with popcorn packing. For the liquids I'm thinkng of sealing them with tape. Then again I may be worrying about nothing....
The popcorn idea will work too, but be a challenge to clean up. :) As for the liquids, the movers won't take most of them anyway, so you will have to transport them yourself.
 
You are right about popcorn packing. I have a sealable container which fits in the trunk. The last time I moved was 30+ years ago and movers did that. I wasn't present my wife(deceased now) was there
 
Instead of popcorn use the poly peanuts…you can get bags of them from any store that sells packing supplies…no mess! I was in the military and we moved 23 times over a period of 30 years. The best way to move a rigged model is to put it in a display case then pack the case in cardboard, or if pro movers are involved they can construct a packing case around the display case. The display case is the key…even if unfinished the model can be cased for eventual display and moved.
 
Instead of popcorn use the poly peanuts…you can get bags of them from any store that sells packing supplies…no mess! I was in the military and we moved 23 times over a period of 30 years. The best way to move a rigged model is to put it in a display case then pack the case in cardboard. The display case is the key…even if unfinished the model can be cased for eventual display and moved.
I only spent two years, eleven months and twenty three days as a 13B. Will follow your advice. I'm looking forward to designing and building a new workbench,.
 
By the way…in my experience popcorn is not the best for cushioning stuff through transit…especially through the mail…it does crush and break up into small pieces losing its cushioning properties…amazingly quickly…use the poly peanuts I mention above…less mess but more sustained cushioning…
 
For a rigged model do NOT pack it in anything. Make sure it is solidly mounted to a base board and then build a crate around it. If in a case just enclose the case in a crate. A model does not weigh much so some shaking will not harm it or cause it to break loose if it is securely mounted to the base. I have always displayed my ships on pedestal bases that are solid but I also strap a line up and over the ship in 2 places and secure that line to the base. Ship now can’t tip or even come loose even if the crate is tipped up side down (Oh please don’t let that happen !!). Obviously, plenty of signage on outside of crate for what side is UP !
I have shipped a model 8000 miles (truck, plane, ship) with no damage and also have driven models across the US packed the same way with no real issues. Obviously a catastrophic drop could cause damage but hopefully that does not happen.
 
I only spent two years, eleven months and twenty three days as a 13B. Will follow your advice. I'm looking forward to designing and building a new workbench,.
Not sure if this will be useful but it's a SketchUp model of the one I built and have used for nearly twenty years...
It's in the 3D warehouse under " van m. "
 
Собрать полностью готовые комплекты легко: просто убедитесь, что коробка хорошо запечатана, чтобы во время транспортировки не выпали какие-либо детали, и поместите коробку с комплектом в движущуюся коробку. Чтобы перевезти коробки, зайдите в Home Depot и купите у них тяжелые коробки для всего, что вы считаете хрупким. Для частично собранных моделей, в которых нет мелких деталей, вы можете просто аккуратно обернуть их и положить в коробку с набивкой вокруг. В случае с вещами, где у вас установлено такелаж, все становится сложнее. Лучше всего было бы поработать с профессионалами и попросить их собрать их. Для основы можно взять деревянную доску большей ширины изделия. Разрежьте немного лапши пополам и используйте их, чтобы поддержать корпус на основании. Прикрепите этот предмет к деревянной основе, чтобы он оставался, а затем постройте ящик вокруг предмета, который прикрепляется только к основанию.

Будьте готовы, у вас будут вещи, которые повредятся или потеряются, но, надеюсь, они будут минимальными. :) Я очень надеюсь, что это поможет.
мы только что переехали из Колорадо во Флориду, поэтому я знаю, насколько это может быть нервно.

Джефф
Привет! очень полезный и информативный совет! В России есть поговорка: один ход – два пожара!
 
For liquids of open containers, try getting some cheap plastic food containers with snap on lids, put your bottles inside with extra spacing, add some kitty litter in bottom to help keep them upright and absorb any leaks. Then pack in a small box, and mark it for top load only.
 
К вышесказанному хочу добавить: 1. Ваши модели необходимо упаковывать с учетом высокой хрупкости перемещаемого груза (необходима маркировка на коробках и специальная жесткая упаковка). 2. Также очень важно, чтобы каждая коробка с моделью (коробкой) была зарегистрирована в логистической системе компании, которая будет перевозить эти коробки, и каждая коробка (коробка) регистрировалась как отдельное место (посылка), а каждая коробка (Посылка) имеет свой отдельный номер для отслеживания. Вся информация о грузе была задокументирована (стоимость и хрупкость) надлежащим образом. Лучше перестраховаться сейчас, чем потом выздоравливать! 3. Постарайтесь во всем вникнуть и проявить как можно больше любопытства к работе транспортной компании. С наилучшими пожеланиями, Егор!

To the above, I would like to add: 1. Your models must be packaged taking into account the high fragility of the cargo being moved (markings on the boxes and special rigid packaging are required). 2. It is also very important that each box with a model (box) is registered in the logistics system of the company that will transport these boxes, and each box (box) is registered as a separate item (parcel), and each box (package) has its own separate Tracking number. All cargo information (value and fragility) was properly documented. It's better to be safe now than to recover later! 3. Try to understand everything and show as much curiosity as possible about the work of the transport company. Best wishes, Egor!
 
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For a rigged model do NOT pack it in anything. Make sure it is solidly mounted to a base board and then build a crate around it. If in a case just enclose the case in a crate. A model does not weigh much so some shaking will not harm it or cause it to break loose if it is securely mounted to the base. I have always displayed my ships on pedestal bases that are solid but I also strap a line up and over the ship in 2 places and secure that line to the base. Ship now can’t tip or even come loose even if the crate is tipped up side down (Oh please don’t let that happen !!). Obviously, plenty of signage on outside of crate for what side is UP !
I have shipped a model 8000 miles (truck, plane, ship) with no damage and also have driven models across the US packed the same way with no real issues. Obviously a catastrophic drop could cause damage but hopefully that does not happen.
THANX!. I'm planning on building the base as the base of t container using screws to limit shock. Some can go in the rear seat of my taurus, I think.
 
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