HOW TO START STANDING RIGGING CORRECT

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At this very moment, I am helping a newcomer to start the riggen. This is not an easy part. It can take half a year or more- only the standing riggen.
As I have already prepared material for the newcomer, there may be more with the same doubt. It is very important to start with the lower shrouds first- do NOT glue the topmast at this moment. As not everybody is UK-speaking, the 1Th image will a little info about the mast parts in English
2 Nd will be a ship with all lower shrouds shown
Here the first problem starts: The first lower shroud -en fact two halves seised together around the masthead img3-4 has to be seised completely. from top to bottom, as it can come in contact with the lower sails. All the rest shrouds- normally uneven 5-7-9, although there are some even. now all the shrouds from now on are in pars. One pare left then the next right and so on. The knots on each one, are going backwards img nº.5.
Each shroud has to be set around a deadeye on the lower end and connected with the outboard deadeyes and set fast - they will all have to be parallel -there are several cheap methods to asure this.I 0_ MAST PARTS.jpg1-JARCIA FIRME (23) - copia.jpg2--foremat-trinquita-- rigging (167).jpg3- JARCIA FIRMA- STANDING RIG.jpg7--JARCIA FIRME DESPOSICION DEL CAPILADURA.jpg11--RIGN.jpg12-FOR DEADEYES - copia.jpg4-FUETOCH SHROUDS.jpg5-SHROUDS,, FUETOCCH SHROUDS.jpg6-FORE MAST SHROUD.jpgused the one in Fig. 12, others nº11- carton with a complete drawing and where and distance and set fast with a double seised tape.
when the shroud is done, the fuetoch shroud will have to be added. Also, a piece of wood on the bottom and top see. nº 4 and 5 ( to avoid the deadeyes twisting) For the moment no need to do the Footsteps (webling?) now.
next step is to add the stays-coming
 
I was to give up on the little response- no comments and today about 100 fingers up of 15000, but as I have already made some more pic I will add them.
if interested, the next step will go further up, before adding the stays. the foodstep or weblingxxxx'??? there are various methods to do the soave between each one- some more complicated than others. I inserted first the wooden part just above the upper deadeyes, then I simply used 1:72 seize: a plank (from the hull) 4mm and then made the distance between the next with a Tayler white chalk.

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4-FUETOCH SHROUDS.jpg

10-MESAN MITZEN MAST- (8) - copia.jpg

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I was to give up on the little response- no comments and today about 100 fingers up of 15000, but as I have already made some more pic I will add them.
if interested, the next step will go further up, before adding the stays. the foodstep or weblingxxxx'??? there are various methods to do the soave between each one- some more complicated than others. I inserted first the wooden part just above the upper deadeyes, then I simply used 1:72 seize: a plank (from the hull) 4mm and then made the distance between the next with a Tayler white chalk.

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First, starting the Standing riggen starts with the lower shrouds. Generally impairs, but it looks like in your model they are on par. Before You begin be sure that you have NOT inserted and glued the Topmast and Platforms to the lower mast, as all threads will have to go around the top of the lower mast. As mentioned before the very 1St shroud is seised all the way -as it can come in contact with the lower main sail -the rest of the shrouds are inserted in pare- as mentioned above- one set starboard the next pare to the backboard, and so on. Part from the 1. The rest of the shrouds are only seized on the top and the lower part. See Fig further up.
fig 1 -I do not like it. Difficult to work with and make the not. Nº2 is a very good one, and you can add all the shrouds right but do not make notes and sizing too strong there is a force on the shrouds over some time it may be 1-2 mm longer, depending on the quality of riggen line. Nº3 is easy. you make one at a time, then to the next. I used the fig 5. you can twist the metal in the middle or with heat and tin..
Now it is time to insert the Topmast and glue it. the Insert the Platform- having first made a hole for the shrouds, going from the main shrouds to the platform and connected with deadeyes. so now you start again with shrouds coming from the crosstree and topgallant mast. that is enough for today. next wikk be about the platform, how to inserd the deadeyes and before being glued insert 2 double blocs and one single both in front and the underneed the platform- have fun



When shrouds are all set correctly around the masthead, you will now have to attach the deadeyes on the lower part- connecting with the outboard deadeyes. Their deadeyes must be parallel, and then have the same force on each shroud.
Some do one side first others as me shifting from one side to the other -the mast MUST be standing 90º. There are various methods to make the deadeyes parallel -some better than others - I will show you a few.

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K (137).jpg

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1581- MAIN  MAST CROSS TREE.jpg
 
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