HMS Guadeloupe (ex french Le Nisus), Brick de 24 by Jack.Aubrey - 1:48 scale

Friday, May 22, 2015

Due to a common cold, but quite strong, and other commitments, I haven't produced a lot this week. . in practice I was not even able to complete the installation of the gunwale: still missing are the two segments at the stern.
However the work had gone smoothly. The most challenging part was to cut openings where to insert the sheave blocks for the fore sheet, amidships, and for the main sheet at the stern.
Hoping better achievements for the next days.
Regards, Jack.

01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150521_173046_zpshd5letcm.jpg
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Saturday, May 30, 2015

Meanwhile I finished the activities that were ongoing, including the installation of the gunwales. Now I think I must invent alternative tasks to perform while I'm preparing for the application of the copper. YES, because I decided to proceed in this direction. It's challenging !! I still have to procure the needed materials: I haven't a clear solution so I decided to buy tapes and sheets, self-adhesive and raw, of various thicknesses to do some comparative tests, then I will choose the solution that will give me the better satisfaction.

While waiting I could start something that will be useful for the future, such as ship boats or some superstructures, I need to think about it. Besides, I should definitely level with sandpaper and finish the hull, also preparing the surface of the quickwork that will receive the copper.

01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100282_zpsqkbwiaiy.jpg
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02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100280_zpspvzt80my.jpg
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Further images from different viewpoints will follow . . cheers, Jack.
 
May 19, 2015 6:35 AM: USS Constitution Enters Dry Dock for Three Years of Repairs.
By: Sam LaGrone

Connie 1.jpg
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USS Constitution prepares to enter dry dock on Monday. US Navy Photo
The U.S. Navy’s oldest commissioned warship is now in dry dock for three-year renovation, the service said on Tuesday.
USS Constitution — commissioned in 1798 — entered Dry Dock 1 at the Charlestown Navy Yard early Tuesday where the ship will be renovated for a scheduled maintenance availability originally scheduled in March but delayed due to the severe winter weather on the Northeast in the earlier part of the year.
“We couldn’t have asked for better weather or better support from the dedicated team of professionals who helped with the docking,” said Cmdr. Sean Kearns, USS Constitution’s 73rd commanding officer in a statement.
“We’re now positioned to carry out the restoration work which will return Constitution to the water preserving her for the next generation of Americans to enjoy and learn about our nation’s great naval heritage.”
The $12 to 15 million restoration will preserve and repair the 2,286 ton ship from the upper masts to the waterline and is scheduled to be completed by 2018.

Connie 2.jpg
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USS Constitution passes by downtown Boston during the ship’s Independence Day underway (US Navy Photo)
“The ship was made famous in the War of 1812 following several engagements with the Royal Navy earning Constitution the nickname ‘Old Ironsides’,” USNI News wrote last year following the ship’s last underway before the repairs.
“Since then the ship has remained in commission undergoing several renovations and crewed by about 50 active duty U.S. Navy sailors.”
The work to be conducted on the ship, according to the Navy includes, includes:
* replacing lower hull planking and caulking,
* removing the 1995 copper sheathing and replacing it with 3,400 sheets of new copper that will protect the ship’s hull below the waterline,
* replacement of select deck beams,
* on-going preservation and repair of the ship’s rigging, upper masts, and yards.
Visitors will be able to visit the ship while in dry dock starting in June.

Further images of the "Connie" after he entered the dry dock . .

01 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 15.jpg
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02 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 5.jpg
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03 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 18.jpg
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04 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 14.jpg
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05 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 17.jpg
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06 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 16.jpg
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I'm sure you're probably wondering: which relationship has this message and related images with the Brick I'm building and that headlines this log?
At first glance, you'll see nothing but, with a little of patience this news, by the way quite recent and do not know how familiar to many people may it be, has veeeeeery muuuuuuch
to do with my model under construction.
A few patience for now.
Cheers, Jack.
 
Wednesday, May 27, 2015

In these days I finished to install the gunwales and, as a final touch, I also gave a few black coats to them, so that now probably show an almost final appearance, unless new elements will be added in the future.

Now I got to a state where it is no longer possible to stall further the project:
1) proceed with a natural wood finish of the hull and go further with this modelling presentation philosophy, often adopted by several ship modelers, or proceed with the installation of the copper sheating on the underwater surface, opting in this case for a more realistic way of presentation. If I should adopt this second solution I should obviously setup a surface preparation of the hull rather different from the first case. Then we need a strong decision.

Regarding the first solution I had many experience, so it does add virtually nothing to my experiences because this would be a mere repetition of tasks already done.

For the latter, however, it would be the first time that I face such a serious commitment. I did a small experience when I covered the underwater hull of the cross section model of the Santisima Trinidad with copper plates, but it is too simple and small compared to what I'm expecting now. However even this minimal experience with the SST left something to me. More about this later in this message.

In fact it is several days that I'm on this subject by relating with other friends (and other I still have to do) and I also spent hours on the web to see what, how and who has already made similar experiences.
I picked up a good portion of these "discoveries" in a document that describes these methods (a kind of patchwork picked from various sources), but they are still far from my complete satisfaction to have everything right and clear.

Let's start for example from some methods of how to perform copper sheating.

First you need a proper preparation of the ground surface in order to facilitate the application of copper and improve durability.
Then the practice suggests two equally viable paths:
- Use bricks made of copper in proper measure and apply them one by one according to a default scheme or
- prepare copper strips on which are pre-cut more bricks and apply it on the hull in a more efficient way then previously.
The fixing can take place using glue (cyanoacrylate or epoxy) or using copper already equipped with an adhesive film, used in some hobby decorative tasks.
In addition there is the problem of the simulation of the riveting, topic still faced by many modelers with different methods but all quite effective.

The copper support that can be found in commerce is of two types: tape or sheet, both self-adhesive or not. The tape media is very easy to find in its self-adhesive form but is also available in natural form. The real limitation here is that the choice of the height is limited (5,6,7 etc) so if you find the right size to fit is fine, otherwise you have to compromise on the measures.
Even the copper sheet is marketed self-adhesive or not; I think that the sheet allows to make the right measurements of the individual bricks corresponding to the real original size, so I think this solution would be preferable.

Finally, assuming that we have finally achieved to fully cover the hull in one way or the other we are faced now with how to display it. And here it is necessary to make some assumptions.
From my experience with the cross section of the Santísima Trinidad I found that the copper, not treated with paint, left exposed to light and air, with time loses the original reddish brilliant color of the new copper and turns brown, getting darker, up to become almost black. To date, after three / four years, the color of my cross section is yellowish brown.
Treating the copper with a glazing paint fixes permanently the beautiful color of new copper. . but is it realistic?

But how becomes the copper in the absence of air under the water, in particular seawater? To hear somepeople the lack of air should prevent the copper from oxidizing and so the color would not change, others, instead, believe that there is still enough oxygen in the water to produce certain effects, in addition there is also the presence of salt water . . A topic of a forum addresses this topic http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8972-copper-plating-to-look-like-c-morgan-by-modelshipways/and it seems convincing. .

And here enters the USS Constitution. As you have read in my previous messages, this sailing ship was lastly covered with copper plates in 1995 and until a few days ago has always been in water. So if we take for example the images below showing the copper appearance after twenty years we have an unequivocal and indisputable evidence of what happens to copper when it stays in seawater for a long time.

Conclusion? Well, I leave this task to you, maybe, after having a deep look to the images that I propose here below, you will have the answer to the question with which I finished my prev message about Connie: "I'm sure you're probably wondering: which relationship has this message and related images with the Brick I'm building and that headlines this log ? At first glance, you'll see nothing but, with a little of patience this news, by the way quite recent and do not know how familiar to many people may it be, has veeeeeery muuuuuuch to do with my model under construction. A few patience for now."

01 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 12.jpg
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02 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 20.jpg
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03 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 13.jpg
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04 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 21.jpg
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05 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 22.jpg
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06 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 6.jpg
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07 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 10.jpg
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08 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 7.jpg
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09 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 11.jpg
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10 USS.Constitution.in.Dry.Dock 19.jpg
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Comments? Other points of view or ideas ? Every comment is more than welcome. Regards, Jack.
 
The Nisus was captured in December 1809, she was launched in 1805 and I guess she was coppered already by the french during her built.
Although she (now the HMS Guadeloupe) was refitted from 08/1810 to 01/1811, I guess also, that she did not get a new coppering.


https://threedecks.org/index.php?display_type=show_ship&id=19360
https://threedecks.org/index.php?display_type=show_ship&id=4572

So I think you will copper your model and weather the surface to get the similar appearance like the Constitution - I am very interested in how you did it !

BTW: Great photos of the
Constitution hull in drydock :cool:
 
Hi Uwe, I confirm my intention to realize a copper sheating similar to the one of USS Constitution in the drydock.

To explain why i think to achieve this goal, I quote here below a post of a friend of mine who is building the same model.
He describes the weathering process used and it is the same I think to replicate on my model.

With a main difference: he used a self adhesive copper tape; this kind of product has its surface threated with a kind of product able to keep it as new and the process did not complete as planned. My intent is to get another way: use photo etched copper sheets with the surface at natural and in this way the result is equal to what you see on the american frigate.
I have an image of another friend who did it time ago with natural copper and the result is perfect.
I'm trying to find the image in the middle of the thousands images I have in my pc and as soon I'll find it I'll show it to evaluate the result. For now be patient . .

Hi all
as I promised, I’m able to show the completely coppered hull.
Firstly a couple of pictures at an earlier stage, when the plates covering the keel thickness are still missing.

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I tried to adjust the color rendering so to match the real color of new copper, which is amazingly bright and shiny.
The following pictures show how I set the copper foil into the narrow and shallow groove that separates the keel from the false-keel... I don’t know if the picture manages to render the effect... well it is not exactly like if the copper continues between the two parts, but is looking almost as I wanted.

post-849-0-04824300-1450997912_thumb.jpg
post-849-0-60311800-1450997938_thumb.jpg

Next picture is how I prepared the stamp for the plates covering the keel width. The holes will house the steel needles used to stamp the simulated nails on the copper tape.
There is no detail about these plates in the Ancre monography, but I needed a greater width to have some margin for bending each plate to the sides of the keel timbers. The keel is 7mm thick, as I wrote above, and I managed to find a copper tape 12.7mm wide.
The layout of the nails is the same as for the other plates, just extended to the larger width of these plates. But, differently from the hull plates, I added another row of nails to the side edge, so that both left and right edges look correctly.

post-849-0-52082700-1450997959_thumb.jpg

I imagined that the curvature of the bow timbers profile would have caused the plates to wrinkle at the sides of keel. To minimize this, I decided to reduce the plates length to about a half of the length of the hull plates: I firstly tried with 20mm length, but the wrinkles were still present and quite difficult to avoid. At 15mm length (instead of the standard 33mm) I managed to avoid the buildup of these wrinkles. So the final size I chose is 12.7mm width and 15mm length.

As for the hull plates, I started producing a small batch of plates for testing how they looked. When I laid the new plates on the side of those I’ve used for the first test, my heart almost missed a beat... OMG, the color was very different!!! More pinkish, as you can see in the following picture:

post-849-0-46105200-1450997981_thumb.jpg

Probably a different brand of copper, or a different surface finish, or whatever... I didn’t know what to think!
I stopped working for a couple of days, thinking at what to do to fix this problem. Then just tried: degreased both copper types with acetone (nail polisher), then rubbed them with very fine steel wool ... and the miracle happened!
I don’t know what the reason was, I cannot believe the older plates had already oxidized ... well I didn’t care: now both plates types showed the same color.

Ok, let’s go forward: the amount of wide plates was not much, just about 20. So it was a job quickly done.
The next two pictures show the final plates installed on bow timber and stern post... you can see that the colors are still different, I fixed it later.

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The last step of coppering was to try reducing the excessive shining of new copper by applying a weathering patina, so to simulate the natural ageing of copper.
I used the recipe suggested by Dirk (Dubz), a mixture of vinegar and salt, with as much salt as can be added to the solution before it starts to fall to the bottom of the pot. I also heated the vinegar to melt a bit more salt... a super-saturated solution I think it’s called.
Again, I used the tester plates to check the effect:

post-849-0-90016800-1450998059_thumb.jpg

What above picture is showing is much more than the real effect, but I wanted to show it because three different areas are visible: to the left is the original copper, in the middle is the copper just covered with some mixture and to the right is the copper after the mixture has dried.
To be honest, I saw this result on the hull before, then I checked on the testers and noticed that a white patina had developed... in other words I was impatient to test the new technique and did not left enough time to the chemicals to complete their effects.
The effect of the mixture was treble: immediately the copper changed color, taking a more brownish tone. Then it lost great part of its shine. And finally the white patina appeared, probably a side effect of the excess of salt in the mixture...

Back to the hull: before applying the mixture I thoroughly degreased the entire hull with acetone, then passed all the plates with very fine steel wool... and the copper colors harmonized.
Then applied the mixture in several coats, using a ragged piece of fabric that I dipped into the solution: in this way I tried to avoid leaving any excessive amount of the stuff on the copper.
And this is the final effect:

post-849-0-00813700-1450998088_thumb.jpg

I’m now thinking at how to face this patina, even though I admit that I’m not disliking the final look ...

A couple more shots of the coppered hull how as it is right now, before the shipyard was closed for Christmas holidays.

I used a different camera, with much lower performance, and this is the reason for such different color rendering...
You may see that I also added a third molding strip just below the water scuppers, an addition of the very last minutes. I’ve missed it during all my previous analysis of the plans, but discovered it when checking for the next job.
I’ve used Yellowheart wood strips that I had available in the scrap parts box: don’t be surprised for the strange color matching, because all this area will be painted black.

To set these strips I temporarily glued several 4.5mm wide spacers below the main molding (they are visible in the above picture), then used them as a guide for laying the new molding.

post-849-0-01135900-1450998113_thumb.jpg
post-849-0-12800000-1450998137_thumb.jpg
https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_12_2015/post-849-0-12800000-1450998137.jpg

Kind regards, Jack
 
Monday, June 1, 2015

I wrote about my intention to pursue the copper sheating challenge and this is still my primary idea.

But I need to define the correct method and for this reason I'm preparing to test and evaluate several paths before selecting the best for me. In the worst case, if all the objectives of my tests will fail, I'll can change my mind forgiving copper and adopt the wood finish . . but with a good reason !

For now I'm interested in understanding if the example of the Constitution copper plates may be considered as an accepted proof of evidence or not. If yes, as I have written, this should be my preferred choice: I want to build a Royal Navy french captured brick, so we are speaking about a ship that was in water for some years.

Regarding how to obtain the green copper, it's again a matter of tests but I have at least two ways: a special varnish, I found on the internet, to apply over the copper and a suggestion form a friend of mine that made this experience using winegar and original sea sand. Again further ideas on how to obtain green copper are welcome . . and again thanks for your answering.

Unfortunately, in the absence of further developments "on the field", I come to propose further model images that date back a few days ago.

The fact that I haven't done anything "practical" in the last days does not mean that I have been totally idle, I simply continued my search for an optimal solution of how best simulate the hull plating with copper.

At the end (really ?), after many considerations, surfing the internet here and there and activating some other sources, I come to identify a solution that, if should prove to be viable, would become in my opinion the most valid. Now I am engaged to carry out the necessary checks this idea can be really pursued.

In the next post I'll try to explain better the idea and, in the meantime, I hope to confirm its validity, especially the feasibility. For now, enjoy the pictures. Regards, Jack.

01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100276_zpsg9mlx6or.jpg
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Thursday, June 4, 2015

First, I state having nothing new to show and I'm waiting to meet this evening with some other modelers to discuss my idea, so I limit myself for now to show two pictures trying to comment them.

The first image refers to a tool produced by Amati with a clear aim to simulate through punching on material like copper or similar studs the copper plates. It's sold with four pouncing wheels with different pitch in order to be used in different scales. A useful tool even if it should not be difficult to scratch build . . depends more on its costs.

01 Pounce Wheel.jpg
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The second image, instead, makes us goback to the messages regarding the USS Constitution after her entrance into the dry dock. The photo here below shows the appearance of the copper plates when, back in 1995 (see the date on the photo) were completely replaced and shortly before her return to the sea. I think with this last image you can better evaluate the changes intervened during her period in seawater. However it is not polished and reddish copper but tending to brown. Obvious as this is what happens to the air and the 3400 copper plates were certainly not produced the day before, then some kind of oxidation should be underwent.

02 1995-const-sternview-e1431367120505.jpg
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See you soon, Jack.
 
Friday, June 19, 2015

It's +/- fifteen days that I do not provide any news about this project.

Unfortunately I had other commitments and could not find the time to continue with my idea on the copper plating.
Commitments about matters concerning the condominium where I live, so I was heavily involved and I am just now released.

I also had to undertake the repair of my computer because the two internal harddisks showed signs of being to pass away and I had to recover the situation. As result I spent almost three full days to restore all the data on the new harddisks. Thanks to the fact that I have always had in place an automatic and regular data backup process I did lose practically nothing.
But I had to reinstall many software, from Windows Operating System to the application programs I usually use.
It had also a chance to do some housekeeping of all the "garbage" installed in the last five years. Now, thanks to the smart hardware changes, the PC runs like a beauty.

And so, rather than carrying on the copper plates matter, since I was on the computer many hours, I started thinking to get ready to build, at the right time, the brick longboat, the first of the three boats on this ship.

And here I followed the same path that led me to design the hull of the ship some months ago:
1) trace the longboat ANCRE plan with AUTOCAD,
2) correct some more evident errors in the drawing, which, as far as great, was convenient to adjust.

The result can be seen in the first image here below, containing all the hull design elements.

01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.0.0.ScialuppaGrandeDisegno1_zpsgtelmm2d.jpg
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From the first drawing I then extrapolated some details, as the following views . .

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Then I cleaned up a few lines that were no longer needed . .

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Until I got the draw of the keel . .

04 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.1.2.ScialuppaGrandeDisegnoLato_zpsxwvbohjf.jpg
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And the bulkheads from midships aft . .

05 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.1.2.ScialuppaGrandeDisegnoPoppa_zpsewgrx39p.jpg
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The process continues . .
Cheers, Jack.

Saturday, June 20th, 2015


The last missing elements of the brick longboat plans: the bulkheads from amidship to bow. Now in theory I could start its building using the idle periods of time of the main project.
Cheers, Jack.Aubrey.

01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.1.2.ScialuppaGrandeDisegnoPrua_zpssrg1vkjy.jpg
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Sunday, June 28, 2015

Still a long period of inactivity regarding my shipmodeling activities. Too many bad things happened in this month and so I could not continue working on my model.

Only sometimes I could dedicate to it and this exclusively via AutoCAD in designing two of the three ship boats. I have already shown the greatest, the longboat, which should allow me to cut out the pieces to setup the hull and now I could begin its construction. . but i'm not sure this will happen shortly.
Then, I continued with the smaller lifeboat: the same type of work and now I have ready the preliminary project to build it. The thrid boat, the last, is still missing.

Finally, I continued to work on my idea of a "different" solution to the copper plating of the hull.

I reached the conclusion, may be right or wrong but for me should be the one with a better aesthetic result and process, that the best copper plates to be applied to the hull had to be obtained through a process of photoetching combined with a laser cutting.
In Italy there are several companies that provide this service. I found some time ago one conmpany on the internet that seemed to have the right requisites and I proceeded to contact it. Unfortunately they said that, although it is possible for them, they do not make business with privates and the business aborted.

So now I have to re-initiate a search until I found someone who is willing to do this work.
Meanwhile, given that the whole process of photoetching generally starts from a vector file (can be done, for example, with AutoCAD), I proceeded to draw a copper plate of the correct size with all the nails planned in the original plate, shown here below in a visible size.

01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/V1.2.0.PiastraRame_zps6spskkxo.jpg
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I then proceeded to prepare the vector file in A4 format including the maximum containable number of plates, both for the right side of the hull than for the left side. Here you can see the result.

Everything should be photoetched and laser cut from a sheet of copper or brass (after year 1800 was no longer being used only pure copper but copper alloys with other less expensive metals) of the proper thickness, to be better defined with the photoetcher, but which should probably between 0.1 and 0.2 millimeters.

02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/V1.2.2.PiastraRameA4Lato1_zpstty7dvyx.jpg
y4m0ZJlKFTL_Ynu0r8pUzctshBfqM4Dk-mkXLuSX


03 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/V1.2.2.PiastraRameA4Lato2_zpsxqelro85.jpg
y4maKXVvKObGN8L5t4qh-09uilTVii1O76c9KMKl


The story is still far from its end anyway, because if I do not find the photoetcher I'm lost.

Does anyone know one in Italy or in Europe ?

Cheers, Jack.Aubrey.
 
I'm now still looking on the Italian market of photoetching companies but may be some suggestions will become useful if I'll not find an opportunity in my country.

I was inspired for my copper plates solution to Mikhail Bezverkhniy's "Rivoli" and Alex Baranov's "Cumberland", here below an image of the "Rivoli" copper (?) sheating

post-1168-0-23926400-1436186940_thumb.jpg post-1168-0-09721200-1436187016_thumb.jpg

Sunday, July 5, 2015

Still nothing new, except that I progressed the design of the shipboats. In this message I intend to post the plans of the "intermediate" ship boat, which should be installed over the main deck inside the larger one.

In the first image the basic design, obtained by tracing the ANCRE plan with some adjustments where they seemed necessary.

01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.0.0.ScialuppaMediaDisegno1_zpsyspa5kvw.jpg
y4m4tHut56BvMPTtIh20GK78Zm6Ktr8Bh8LfiMWj


Then follows the side shapes. .

02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.1.0.ScialuppaMediaDisegnoLato_zpsl6kfomk1.jpg
y4myQxZxdAeaW1PXAG-tidSkE_x05YLa91_Nlkm6


The profile of the keel. .

03 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.1.0.ScialuppaMediaDisegnoChiglia_zpsxe94dntj.jpg
y4mbSUZnaxt5iIrRV2k6vpo4M1xlUHVMj7llkgf1


The bulkheads from amidships to bow. .

04 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.1.0.ScialuppaMediaDisegnoPrua_zps5iyjtesq.jpg
y4mP-5u1oBJZ6UL3p4xaNoytsmzw8zvGE1mrW-xo


And the bulkheads from amidships aft. .

05 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.1.0.ScialuppaMediaDisegnoPoppa_zps4xrw13wd.jpg
y4m06wDo0PHiRh-dymM08LuTQbvvZAtszTT7y0r7


06 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/v1.1.0.ScialuppaMediaDisegnoPoppa2_zpsexak99kc.jpg
y4m23W-wSY-ExdaIRTbQsymJAlGf4gPRTM6juqbS



The images you see here are not to scale because the forum software resizes them in its own way, but you can download them by clicking on the image and then proceed to its download at 1:1 size.

Sincerely, Jack.Aubrey
 
Friday, July 10th, 2015

After a long break due to family problems and, last but not least, thanks the hot weather of these last days where I live, finally yesterday and today I was able to resume activities on the model.

Being for now suspended any task on the brick hull, waiting for news regarding the copper plates, I started the construction of one of the three lifeboats carried by this ship.

In recent days I spent enough time designing plans with AutoCAD and now in theory the three boats are ready to be built. The design method is the same for all, then, to avoid that an error is reflected on all the three projects, I decided to start to build only one for now. Later, if the method will work, I will start the other two, otherwise I will have to correct something before proceeding further.
The choice is obviously fallen on the largest boat: being larger it should be easier to work with . .

The first image shows all the pieces cut and finished, after I glued the AutoCAD printouts on a birch plywood, 5 layers, 2mm. thickness. The metric scale in the background should give a idea of the size of this boat: about 16-17cm.

Shown below is the mounting basement, consisting of a plywood tablet on which has been glued a boat plant. On the centerline is a strip of 5x5mm. intended to keep the bulkheads capsized but aligned.

01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150709_185229_zpsgbqkmzvn.jpg
y4m0YGv7hVoyfdfaEp2Mjbv_gck3NzECCfq_STET


After removing the paper from all the cutout pieces, I started the actual installation just glueing all the bulkheads. The alignment is obtained with the 5x5 strip on the base. So far everything seems to work well. With a special tool of adequate size, I made me sure to glue the frames perfectly vertical with respect to the base. So far, so good.

The next two images show the work at this point of the installation.

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150710_105949_zpsgmkqv3ay.jpg
y4mG4hRumJluqkZTQvpge4vzG6zAzE18JA-5E8Dj


03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150710_105940_zpsa0kprqd1.jpg
y4mEsn4_z-ZTVLNpXwnQJkg2og4PwGVKp3ufrPZO


The work is still in progress, see you soon, Jack.Aubrey.
 
Saturday, July 11th, 2015

For the moment I have installed the keel on the bulkheads . . I'm waiting for the glue to dry. In the meantime I prepared two mini wood blocks to shape the bow. They are so "big" that I had to fix them on a piece of wood to be able to work with them . .
I then began to cut ten/twelve strips of Tanganyika from a sheet of veneer.

01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150710_113827_zpsdenmzwle.jpg
y4mz4J-xNPVGs0go_yP078BxhHk0Z0uhBsHNiWat


02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150710_113812_zpsp7zg4mi4.jpg
y4m5JpCRA7-a8tYaPoa1kNT70325m5yemFUGwkl_


03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150710_113750_zpsoqybwc6t.jpg
y4m-pLvGhHsgtAvOdVEO_jbtF69W7lJHQZJ0q1UM


04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150710_113804_zpsnbenchh3.jpg
y4m2bUpdg3cJZ5Hm5gWM21rsrfYUviB7xu-uGd16


Rgds, Jack.Aubrey.
 
Sunday, July 12th, 2015

Before continuing with the planking I proceeded to apply mahogany mordant to the keel and the bulkhead complex. In the photos it seems pretty dark. . in daylight it's a bit better.
Considering this Sunday there are many motorcycle races (Moto3, Moto2 and MotoGP) on the TV, I postpone further activities for tomorrow.

01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150711_120725_zpsvez3q67j.jpg
y4mCG3M1Hd8hMpeL-PrLupjWQHqlVE-VXxsg1jgW


02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150711_120713_zpsdilsn1iw.jpg
y4mKGKM8kQHj5AIvT81NOtlwGjnzhPpN84rMS0Ya


03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150711_120624_zpsstjvehqi.jpg
y4mFfmia7GB9ciTZ7xzlVkiwcHlLAUkkdndWBuzw


Best regards and see you next, Jack.
 
Saturday, July 18th, 2015

The second shipboat is well under way . . now there is only to apply and shape two bow wood blocks and then I'll switch to the third one to have all the material ready for my stay in Tuscany.

01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150718_193928_zpsgqzfcncz.jpg
y4mTPlznS6djFBfwVJ8Yd5UDFUiRLn_aLMgYtraI


In the next images a comparative view between the two boats. The smaller one will be hosted inside the larger on the ship deck, between the two masts.

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150718_193756_zpsjps3rtmr.jpg
y4m0BYKl50DL4VXo8JzYklKf5Pynk8tyYlmh3Xec


03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150718_193718_zpsej6vu3ze.jpg
y4mb6RaZnU9slCcdA9buJ0ksTm3913L9w5v4TfLD


Cheers, Jack.Aubrey
 
A few days ago I wrote with some enthusiasm, about the photo-etched copper plates, as below:
Quote
Finally: I got an answer from the photoetching guy who promised to send me a quotation for the next few days. Hoping in a positive and viable answer.
Today, as promised, I received the answer, answer I reproduce in full here below:
Quote
Hello Sergio,

Referring to your request to inform you that:
1- we could produce brass 0.2 mm or 0.10 mm nickel silver (no copper from 0.1 or 0.2 mm)
2- the total cost would be € 120.00 for setup costs and € 40.00/plate. So, assuming that you'll order 10 sheets the cost would be 10 x € 40.00 = € 400.00 + € 120.00 = € 520.00 + any shipment costs + VAT

I await confirmation of both the material (show me what you prefer) is the total cost in order to proceed with production.
Sincerely.
I am genuinely stunned . .

I asked for a quotation of 10 sheets, A4 size, although in reality I would need only 5. This because if the option was interesting, I was able to propose the material also for my friend who is doing the same model.

On the website they advertise it was a really easy matter, I had only to prepare and send them an AutoCAD file, done following certain rules, and their highly sophisticated and flexible equipments would be ready to do all the work !!

It sounds me like a steal . . the AMATI photoetched plates available on the market, unfortunately too small for my needs, cost about 15€ per sheet !!

I think at this point I will have to reconsider other options, not last to leave the hull in natural wood . . and of course try other suppliers. It's a pity for the time lost but with shipmodeling we always need lot of patience !

Anyway I'll resume the matter after I'll get back from Tuscany. By the way I'm facing some other problems and I'll will delay my departure for a couple of weeks.

Regards, Jack

Saturday, July 25th, 2015

During these last days, I finished to cut out the elements of the third boat, the smallest one and whose plans are presented as pictures here below. The task of preparing all these pieces, keel and bulkheads, has been quite challenging as they are really very small pieces, cut from a plywood quite thin and I had to take care of them with a lot of patience and attention to avoid breakage, while still maintaining the necessary precision of the cut.

So today I finally was able to assemble all the pieces using the same proven method of the two other boats. Apart few finishing details now the basic material to further proceed on their construction, when I'll go to Tuscany, should be quite ready.

As I wrote my departure is delayed some time because of unexpected problems. No peace for us poor pensioners . . for now let me publish the plans of the last boat, images will follow.

Friendliness, Jack.Aubrey.

01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/ScialuppaPiccolaLato_zpsegjmjqmh.jpg
y4mj51VF_RrnADhOXj72a83VwG6Cr8J2K9VVjYA-


02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/ScialuppaPiccolaChiglia_zps1vd4mgov.jpg
y4m4Re2uwJfFspgtgaqslin1af_VQ1IjEC5wwsml


03 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/ScialuppaPiccolaPoppa_zpsqtfmuhbm.jpg
y4mZRU-5neCFDTzsqStiSzyxzJFjv2Pij_VpKhlQ


04 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/ScialuppaPiccolaPrua_zps61xmhlf4.jpg
y4mHWOQ7ABV8_3vUHGXU9uJJsSuf5Vu2jRb7Lqg7
 
Tuesday, July 28th, 2015

Here are pictures of the three boats all together, to highlight the differences in size. Now I should start the planking, as also the shaped bow woodblocks are in place. As I anticipated, double-layer planking in Tanganyika veneer, 0.5 mm.

Regards, Jack.

01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100341_zpsj5nziuqt.jpg
y4mGXUDr0s6KdNHAh0GkNM-1L5maQHP5wEU-BPGc


02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100342_zpshl2gg24p.jpg
y4mLOhjLMdmQXnVfBOii7cWb3YiiyKXMp86Dr_BM


03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100343_zpsiirtbdrz.jpg
y4m5gTc-8eF2l4sd-rKOZfA5i4qtqiJ1-xUjY8qU


04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100344_zps2lswqmj5.jpg
y4mhZYm54ZrVm5MLVe8ezh4fmv3_R2IaT2wrg5n8


05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100345_zpsti6xppza.jpg
y4m5Ykjjsgsxdg2foI-U31Iehf4YR9JHV87R-Pl5


06 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100346_zpsn73z0vcy.jpg
y4mDiviskqoEotvfvOxuDopnYUs9asBao0jhvYog
 
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