- Joined
- Dec 31, 2017
- Messages
- 228
- Points
- 133
How are the instructions? Are they in English and are they clear?
The information in the construction instructions is very brief. The instructions can be downloaded from the homepage https://drydockmodelsandparts.com/c...-pearwood-boxwood-cnc-decorations-coming-soon. In conjunction with the YouTube videos it becomes easy to understand, without the videos it would be very difficult
Mario
I enjoy sanding too. The beautiful lines of the hull become apparent after the hours spent sanding inside and out.
She is coming along well. Enjoy your build.
Regards
Rick
Thank you
Hi
How is your Wnterprize coming along?
How is your Wnterprize coming along?
it was definitely time for an update ..... you can make them so often as possible -> we like photos very much
your frames are looking good - step by step and frame by frame
your frames are looking good - step by step and frame by frame
Good morning. One frame at a time....."slowly slowly you will catch this monkey". All looking awesome . Cheers grant
Hello friends,
no construction progress this time.
Yesterday a nice meeting took place in Augsburg Germany.
I was also there with my HMS Enterprize. She has attracted some interest and some are asking about the big sister in 1:48.
Here are 2 pictures.
Mario
no construction progress this time.
Yesterday a nice meeting took place in Augsburg Germany.
I was also there with my HMS Enterprize. She has attracted some interest and some are asking about the big sister in 1:48.
Here are 2 pictures.
Mario
Hello everyone,
Today I'm honoring Uwe's wish. He asked me to show step by step how I assemble the frames.
1. I mark the position of the spacers on the template.
2. Find parts on the B-frame, remove them and label them.
3. After all parts of the two frames have been removed, use the templates to check whether they are really the right parts and, for the first time, whether they fit well.
4. Clean the adhesive surfaces from the laser carbon and check for accuracy on both sides.
5. Using the plan, check exactly which sides the parts have to be flush and where the edge has to be.
6. Now glue and check again and again with the plan and the template, if everything fits, fix it with the clamps.
7. There is always a little more rework here (for technical reasons), but it takes less than 2 minutes.
8. Let everything dry overnight.
Here's a quick picture to show how few tools I needed to get here.
The next steps will be coming soon.
greeting
Mario
Today I'm honoring Uwe's wish. He asked me to show step by step how I assemble the frames.
1. I mark the position of the spacers on the template.
2. Find parts on the B-frame, remove them and label them.
3. After all parts of the two frames have been removed, use the templates to check whether they are really the right parts and, for the first time, whether they fit well.
4. Clean the adhesive surfaces from the laser carbon and check for accuracy on both sides.
5. Using the plan, check exactly which sides the parts have to be flush and where the edge has to be.
6. Now glue and check again and again with the plan and the template, if everything fits, fix it with the clamps.
7. There is always a little more rework here (for technical reasons), but it takes less than 2 minutes.
8. Let everything dry overnight.
Here's a quick picture to show how few tools I needed to get here.
The next steps will be coming soon.
greeting
Mario
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Let's move on,
9. Next, the inside of the 3 frame parts must be cleaned and the protruding part on the contact surfaces must first be carved down with the knife and sanded flat with the file.
10. Now transfer the position of the spacers to the frames and glue the spacers on.
11. Now the frame is completed and the correct fit is checked using suitable means (in my case my small file).
12. and let it dry overnight again
I usually have several frames under construction at the same time, in different steps
Continuation follows
Kind regards
Mario
9. Next, the inside of the 3 frame parts must be cleaned and the protruding part on the contact surfaces must first be carved down with the knife and sanded flat with the file.
10. Now transfer the position of the spacers to the frames and glue the spacers on.
11. Now the frame is completed and the correct fit is checked using suitable means (in my case my small file).
12. and let it dry overnight again
I usually have several frames under construction at the same time, in different steps
Continuation follows
Kind regards
Mario
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Great step by step guidance. It is always handy to have lots of small clamps around when building POF kits.
I wish that someone in USA might set up such a meet as you have in Europe for meeting and seeing work done by those you only chat online with.
In my other hobby of Model Railroads, we have regional and national meetings and shows to see what is new and visit with old friends.
I wish that someone in USA might set up such a meet as you have in Europe for meeting and seeing work done by those you only chat online with.
In my other hobby of Model Railroads, we have regional and national meetings and shows to see what is new and visit with old friends.
There is a great ship modelling club in Denver, Colorado that meets monthly that is quite active. I would strongly suggest you look them up if you don't mind the drive. There are also some pretty large regional/national events here in the US as well.
Jeff
Is there a reason you did not taper the stem or knee of the head? For a 28 gun ship, vertically the stem should go from 15 inches wide and reduce so it matches the width of the keel at the bow. The knee of the head should reduce from 11.5" at the stem down to 4 inches at the foremost edge. I suspect many are unaware of this basic design feature and some may consider this a minor thing. In the end, as normal, its inclusion is up to the builder and the amount of accuracy they want to reach. It is a shame such a basic item is ignored or glossed over by all but one kit manufacturer.
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- Joined
- Mar 1, 2022
- Messages
- 259
- Points
- 168
You're right. I did it on my own hoy as some tapering was strictly required by the jig pattern itself. Nevertheless, hardly any planset available in the market shows or explane that. I saw some museum models and the Leda class frigates by Seppings shoving even rounded cutwater's edges possibly in some streamlining attempt.
Beeindruckende Arbeit Mario, very good work. I wa very pleased to be able to view your work in Augsburg.
It is my understanding that models from kit maker Vanguard mention this as an option for model builder in the instructions. Sadly, Syren is the only kit manufacturer of which I am aware that addresses important design characteristic in some detail.
Not that bad as leaving out all the hanging and lodging knees along with the notches for deck framing ,some manufacturer does that ,in this case is Syren .Those are major flaws in a otherwise very nice Pof kit, all the Chinese Pof kits I seen so far have these fratures ,tapering the bow is up to the builder not a feature or parts that should be include in a very expensive kit!