Hms Endeavour - Billing Boats

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When I took up the model builder's hobby a couple of years ago, I bought this set on offer from a Norwegian dealer.
Beginning (1) .jpg
I quickly realized that it was a set to paint, simple plank under whales and double over.
So I decided to copy the parts of the hull itself and make 3 copies to learn the planking technique.
Greeting-
 
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The project was taken off the shelf again a few months ago when I saw Zoly make a double planked hull.
I started by dry mounting the original set of Billing so that I have the opportunity to transfer dimensions to the copies.
dry monr (1).jpgdry monr (2).jpgdry monr (3).jpgdry monr (4).jpgdry monr (5).jpgdry monr (6).jpgdry monr (7).jpg

Another thing was that UWE made the review of Endeavor, where I could count how many planks there are on the side of the hull.
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Last post this time.
New deck is made, two layers of veneer, extra hull adjustments and surface treatment as a result of poor work done earlier,
transmitted measurements to copies.
I'll laminate an extra layer of veneer on the deck to make them a little stiffer.
b (1).jpgb (2).jpgb (3).jpgb (4).jpgb (5).jpgb (7).jpgb (8).jpgb (9).jpgb (10).jpgb (11).jpgb (12).jpgb (13).jpgb (14).jpgb (15).jpgb (16).jpg

The planlater on is to replace keel, bow and stern and add two layers of planks. new deck will also be made with accessories.
 
The planlater on is to replace keel, bow and stern and add two layers of planks. new deck will also be made with accessories.
looks like you have a blast building the fleet of Endeavors! Did you build the hull\s considering the thickness of double layers planks?
 
Thanks for their interest friends, the plan is mainly to practice / learn planking, there will be double layer planking,
after the first layer I will remove keel, bow and stern and replace these parts, after that comes second layer,
there will also be an extra layer of planks on the deck with deck details.
At least that's the plan.
Greeting-
 
Update.
Glueing the deck, I used double-sided tape and scrap materials to keep the deck boards stiff and strait when I glue them.
In the last picture I have sanded the hulls evenly with the deck.
Deck (1).jpgDeck (2).jpgDeck (3).jpgDeck (4).jpgDeck (5).jpgDeck (6).jpg
BDW, don't worry about the numbers I've written everywhere, they no longer matter.
The next step in the plan is to line upp lines and important targets on the hulls before I dismantle and replace the bow, keel and stern.
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Planks first layer.
Here I will use American pine which I think is too soft to use for anything else, at the slightest touch there will be damage to the material.
This type of material becomes hairy after having passed through the proxxon and must be sanded to get a smooth surface.
plank (1).jpgplank (2).jpgplank (3).jpgplank (4).jpgplank (5).jpgplank (6).jpgplank (7).jpg
The planks will be cut with my Proxxon Fet just before I use them, do not want them to be bended due to moisture differences.
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When I see your workshop I am a little jealous (in a good way, for sure!!!) I like your stash of wood and the way you presielly planning before execution. Great watching progress, Knut!
 
Thanks for your interest Jim, Now I use this tree type that is too soft for regular modeling,
By using this tree type in the first plank layer, I think I will have a good foundation for layer two.
The goal of this exercise is to plank the hulls as accurately as possible but that is not a requirement. practice makes perfect.
I will grind the hulls and surface before planking work continues indoors.

I also noticed that the materials are easy to deform due to moisture in my uninsulated garage,
therefore the planks will be sawn in my garage and installed indoors where it is dry and nice.

Hope I don't get big problems with the planking, I got a little scared when Paulv 1958, told about bluff bows, possibly it will be a big challenge.

This log will show that it is quite common to make mistakes, learn from them, and correct old mistakes for the better.
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