Harriet Lane Model Shipways Solid hull build log by Peter Gutterman [COMPLETED BUILD]

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Peter Gutterman

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This solid hull kit has been discontinued, replaced with a plank on bulkhead version. I like carving solid hulls and planking over them. This version represents the Harriet Lane as she might have appeared Jan. 1 1863 when she was captured by the Confederates. Her appearance is modeled after she was commissioned into the U.S. navy from the Revenue Service for which she was originally built in 1857. I modified the kit to reflect that change which was considerable. The pictures appear in order of construction and are by no means complete.


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I purchased this last month (plank on bulkhead), which will be my fall project—looking forward to your building blog.
 
I did not include an exhaustive description of the build. Much of it is, I believe, self explanatory. A word on the copper bottom. It is composed of mahogany strip wood from Model Shipways. "pickled" with acrylic copper paint (water based) .That is, wiped on and wiped off, before being allowed to dry. The natural red brown of the mahogany with the copper paint imbedded in the grain gave me the mellow effect I wanted. The strips are then cut to the necessary length and taper individually, fitted in place and glued to the hull using Tite Bond CA gel in an applicator plastic container which allows squeezing out a continuous uniform bead. It is an effective ,if unforgiving process. Once in place the strips are scored with a 1/4" SHARP chisel to give the effect of separate copper plates. I will entertain any and all questions should I receive them. A more expansive collection of pictures of the finished model is on gallery 12.

Pete
 
I hope you enjoy it and look forward to seeing your progress and the finished model on this forum.
( Love the Jag!)
 
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Peter Gutterman said:
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What a fantastic job, amazing work all around. I have always shied away from solid hull because I don't have much 3D talent and I don't shape very well. Really impressed with your work there and with the amazing attention to detail throughout. A real masterpiece!!!
 
Thanks ,very inspiring feedback. I belong to the Washington Ship Model Society and volunteer at the USNA museum workshop. But I don't drive much anymore and have to pretty much depend on others to get around. So aside from a few regional shows and club meetings, my opportunity to display and share my work with others is dwindling.
I've amassed a considerable portfolio in restorations, models from kits, kit bashing and scratch built originals, the best of which is probably that less than 1:92 (1/16") scale Baltimore Clipper that I posted this week on the completed models thread. so, thanks again, it's good not to be in a vacuum.
 
Peter Gutterman said:
Thanks ,very inspiring feedback. I belong to the Washington Ship Model Society and volunteer at the USNA museum workshop. But I don't drive much anymore and have to pretty much depend on others to get around. So aside from a few regional shows and club meetings, my opportunity to display and share my work with others is dwindling.
I've amassed a considerable portfolio in restorations, models from kits, kit bashing and scratch built originals, the best of which is probably that less than 1:92 (1/16") scale Baltimore Clipper that I posted this week on the completed models thread. so, thanks again, it's good not to be in a vacuum.
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You're welcome. Thanks again for sharing your talent with the rest of us. Gives us something to shoot for!
 
 
South Africa? Cool! A South African, Robert Lightfoot,(if I remember the name correctly) built a number of spectacular models for the USNA (Naval Academy) museum, for their Floor (deck) devoted to the history of the Navy. (As distinct from the deck devoted to the Roger's collection of Admiralty models and the "Ages of Sail" collection.) One among his models is that of the brig "Siren". Totally scratch built and, of course, museum quality. I think he built a good half dozen or so models on commission for the USNA Museum.
Cheers back!, Pete
By the way. Thanks .You made my morning!
 
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very nice looking model, the copper plating technique seems interesting if you have any photos of that part of the construction as I am faced with a hull needing to be plated. I don't have any experience with them and that sound more durable and less likely to dent them during the decking and rigging? great job peter,,,
 
Bill, unfortunately I don't. But it follows a technique for planking over a hull with veneer strip wood starting at the deck sheer down to the waterline and from there starting amid ships working down strip by strip, the ends of each strip being tapered at an angle ( a straight cut) to conform with the bottom of the strip above it, slowly working your way out from the mid ship to each end, adding stealers as required ( little long triangular pieces to fill triangular gaps as they appear). there should be just enough give in the narrow strips (about 3/16" wide) to allow a little flex to force them into a gentle curve along the length. It basically is the same plan for coppering any hull from the waterline down. just with long strips instead of individual plates, the look of individual plates is achieved using an appropriate width(SHARP) chisel to score the lines between them. First you put down gore lines of plates parallel to the waterline (some ships have more of these than others)then proceed from there. The gore lines I put down using individual pieces of strip cut to the size of a copper plate, as these must conform to be parallel to the waterline. At the smaller scales I work at, rivet imprints aren't necessary as, at scale, ,you wouldn't see them. I know none of this makes a lot of sense written down. Maybe if you send me your contact information I can make an illustrated version. I came up with the idea to make a nice believable looking overlay of veneer planking having read about the method for coppering a ship's bottom. It covers a multitude of sins.
Thanks for the kind words, they make my day :D
 
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For Bill Schwartz,
Re the above planking instructions. Don' try to apply any long strip (strake) in one length. Divide it into more manageable Lengths (planks) of no more than three or four inches. I glue them in place with Tite Bond ca gel in the little blue and silver dispenser, dark blue cap. Pretty cheap and lasts awhile but always have a backup or two at hand.
You don't want to run out in the middle of an application. After dry fitting the plank mark on the hull where it ends and run a small bead of glue where it goes. Be sparing, you don't want too much glue squeezing out between planks. When this happens wipe it off quickly with a rag , kept close to hand, along the grain.
When you open a new dispenser a blob of glue will seep out, wipe this away quickly. After that the glue will run out with only the slightest squeeze on the side levers. This will diminish as you use up more glue. This process is demanding and (as always with ca) unforgiving. It's kind of a high wire act. take each step purposefully, carefully and VERY slowly!
CA can be undone, but you don't want to go there. Remember: only work with manageable lengths. Score the pieces to simulate individual copper plates as you go.

Pete:)
 
Peter, as usual your talent is outstanding and your attention to detail is great to see. You are an inspiration to many of us. I know you have many great years ahead of you to teach others. Magic Mike
 
3/32"= 1' The strip wood I got from Model Shipways a long time ago. Mahogany 3/16" wide. They still sell strip wood, you can see what is available in their on line catalog. Can you make heads or tails of the Treatise I left in two parts. on this thread? I thought I made myself perfectly obscure.:rolleyes: If you reach out on the personal chat option we can discuss it further, if you have questions. The gingerbread railings are on the way. Should arrive Friday.

Cheers, Pete
 
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