FLYING DUTCHMAN

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PLANKING 3A


Last time, I stuck the partition wall on the front side, glued the keel, and put the side reference
line with a pencil to finish.
This time I stuck the outer skin of the hips. After this, the outer plate was cut neatly to match
the outline of the stern.




This is a picture taken from behind diagonally before cutting it neatly.
The outer plate is pasted from the red arrow part.




Stick 2 mm thick and 4 mm wide cypress into the red arrow and stick it up with that as a reference.
I use 4mm width, 3mm width, and 2mm width cypress according to the place.
But the main width is 3mm.



Enlarged photo of the stern part.
The part of the groove is 2mm wide and 1mm thick cypress. If you stick a 2mm thick material on this,
it will pop out by 1mm.
Two pieces of 4mm width are stuck on it.




Enlarged photo of the side of the ship.




Enlarged photo of the bow.
After this, I will paste it on top.





I could stick the outer plate of the bow part, port and starboard somehow. I have to move it
to the left and right at the same time.





I will stick the outer plate of the stern part, the port and starboard.





I also pasted the stern part to the top!




After that it is pasting from the waterline to the bottom part.





I stuck it on the bottom of the water line and managed to get to this point.
I have a little more.
Is it about 2 pieces of 3mm wide cypress?





I've finally pasted it.
There were days when I couldn't paste it, so I was a little dissatisfied.
When pasted up, the outer plate is rattling.
Is there any trick to put it neatly?
Even if you stick it carefully, there will be gaps and there will be steps, so it will be a problem.
After this, sandpaper is applied.
Also, the edge of the protruding material is cut cleanly.




I scraped it with an electric sander for about 2 hours.
The hull was somehow clean, so I cut off the edge of the outer skin.
Then, the pillars of the frame were cut off and sandpaper was applied to the inner wall.
I attached the stem part of the bow with epoxy adhesive and tightened it firmly with screws.




I temporarily assembled a beak head on the stem of the bow.
The stem is grooved so I just inserted the beakhead.
Have you seen the whole picture?




This is a close-up photo of Beekhead.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

GUN PORTS 4A



The position of the gunport skid was drawn on the hull from the side view of the work drawn on
the 4mm cena veneer, and the gunport of the upper deck was opened.
I took a photo while I was opening it so I will take the gunport work on the lower deck seriously.




Use this router to open the gun port below (the mouth of your face).
I opened the upper gun port by the same work.




First, make a lot of small holes with a router.



Then, cut with a design knife.



It looks like this. After this, I finished it nicely with a file.



It is in a finished state.



It is a work under the engraved part of the surprised face.
Since the face is made with putty or wood powder clay, the face is traced down to the
extent that you only need to know the size.
First, cut out the mouth of the paper with a surprised face printed on it, put it on
the gun port of the hull, and fasten with masking tape.




Put carbon paper under the printed paper and trace down your face with a stylus.




I'm a left-handed person, so I take a pencil with my left hand and a camera with my right hand.




End of port trace.




Then, the starboard trace is finished.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Here, I will make the outer panel.
This self-made tool is made by cutting a saw blade and attaching a handle.





It is the expansion of the blade.
This will scratch the outer plate and add wood grain.
I will scratch from the bow toward the stern.



I will scratch like this.



The surface fluffs like this.




So I bought a stainless steel scourer.
This evenly rubs the outer skin of the hull.





Large fluffs have fallen off.
Is it okay if I can get the details?
I don't mind.
That would be more like FD.





The starboard side, the red arrow part is a 1 x 4 x 900 mm cypress wood glued to the main wale.




Similarly, on the port side, the main wale part indicated by the red arrow is bonded.




The bow is taken from the front.
It seems that the main well can be attached to the left and right objects.
As always, work on the left and right is nervous. (=゚ω゚) no




The starboard side, the red arrow part is a 2 x 2 x 900 mm cypress wood and the third
rail part from the top is glued.




Similarly, on the port side, glue the third rail part from the top.






Next, glue the first and second rails from the top.
When sticking the outer plate, decide the main wale position and rail position from the
side view for work drawn on the china veneer, and if you stick the outer plate material
that matches the width of the main wale rail, the main wale rail to be stuck on it It
will be easier to paste.
This time, for the main wale, we stuck the same 2 mm thickness as the outer plate material,
and stuck the 1 mm thick main wale on it.

If you stick 1mm thick material for the rail and lower it by 1mm lower than the outer plate material,
and then paste the 2mm thick rail material, it will be a rail that protrudes 1mm from the outer plate,
and you can paste it neatly.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

another interesting technique used by Mellpapa is to texture the surface of the planking.

This is in total reverse of some model builders who sand the surface of planking to almost a glass smooth surface. What Mellpapa did was to give the wood a weathered worn look.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

vertical skids 5A



It is pasting of the vertical skid part next to the gun port.
Hot water is contained in a small bottle, and when the skid cypress is added here to soften it,
use the large bottle next to it to add a rounded habit and blend it into the hull.
Engrave the combination with the horizontal molding and glue it with an instant adhesive
for woodworking (made by Daiso) before the cypress wood dries.




The red arrow on the port side is the pasted skid part.
Finally I pasted six.
There are 10 in total.
(';Ω;`) Woo...




This is the starboard side.
Simultaneous paste write the same place of the two broadside because the body is
pasted same six with the port side.




Looking up, it looks like this.



I finally pasted 10 on the port side.



I also stuck 10 on the starboard side.
About the same position.
It's subtle though. (^ω^)b

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

GUNPORTS 5A



I'll make a box to line the scary face of Gunport.
A lot of 13mm x 13mm x 2mm boards on the left side of the photo...
Lots of 15mm x 15mm x 2mm boards on the right side...
I cut this board from the board sold at Daiso. Since it is a box that is attached
from the inside of the hull, cheap materials are sufficient. It's not something you can see.
(^ω^)b




First, glue the board to the L shape.



Adhesive by combining two L-shaped adhesive plates.



So it's a close-up image though it doesn't mean much.



Box-shaped by sticking the bottom with a 15 mm × 15 mm plate material.



So it's an up image. The tight bond of the adhesive is protruding.
The adhesive is dry.




When the adhesive dries, fill the inside with Mr.COLOR's matte black.




I filled the inside with everything.
Since it is not dry yet, it cannot be bonded to the hull yet.




While the gunport lining box is being dried, make the gunport trim on the hull.
Using an Evergreen 1.6mm rod, wrap it around a jig that combines a round bar and
square timber and clip it. Soak it in boiling water for about 1 minute and then rinse with water.




Then, it's already watered!




Cut with a nipper!




Then, bond like this.



Don't glue it.




Starboard, bonding completed!




Bonding on the port side is also complete.




Once the adhesive was dry, I added a mold with a tool with a scribing on the skin.




Glue the handle that can be grasped with tweezers to the back of the gun port lining box.




Glue to the back of the gun port as indicated by the red arrow.
Once you have glued the deck, you can't touch it again, so attach a
lot of tight bonds and stick firmly.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

It is a continuation from the previous.



It's pasting the box for lining the gun port, but I cut it according to
the curves on both sides of the hull.
I forgot to write it the last time.




Finally the installation of the lining box is completed!




It is a close-up image of the bow side.




This is also an up image.
I forgot to shoot the stern.
Tohoho...

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

THE DECK




A piece of aviation veneer.
It is a scrap that came out when used as a support plate for the outer plate.
This will be the lower deck material.





This is the drawing of the deck.
I will print it out and cut it out to fit the hull.





It fits nicely.
Trace down this drawing to a piece of aviation veneer and cut it out.





A 0.6mm thick aviation veneer is cut out.




When the cut-out deck lower plate material is fitted to the hull...
Well, it looks like this.
It is perfect.
With this, the deck material can be put in, but before that, it is easier to
stick the deck material by working the grating main mast fife rail etc. according to the lower deck material.
Therefore, I will first work on the grating and main fist rails.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Crafting of grating




About 70 pieces of 1x2x900mm cypress wood cut to 70mm are prepared.
that? What is the prototype of this chopper? ?
I forgot (lol)




Align the cut materials with a jig.




Adhere only the both ends of the aligned material, the red frame part.




Back with masking tape.




Grooves will be carved with Proxon's "Grating work slide table (self-made)"
for mini circular saws.
●Experiment 001 ●　I am making a "grating work slide table" with grating.
I'm working on the grating here as well.





Engrave the first groove to fit the guide bar of the slide table.
Match the groove that was carved first with the bar of the guide and carve the second groove.
After that, the groove is carved by repeating this.




The groove is finished.
It's like a washboard.



Mark only one.
It is necessary because we will let you know the direction when incorporating it.




Separate the washboards, align the ones marked with magic, and assemble them vertically and horizontally.




I incorporated as much as I needed.



Dilute the woodworking bond with water and soak the grating created in it.




It doesn't mean much, but it is a close-up image of Dobu-zuke.
Absorb plenty of woodworking bond aqueous solution.





Wipe off excess water and let it dry overnight.




Clean it with sandpaper and cut the margins to fit the size.
The rest is to make a frame for this.





Tight bond adhesion with the largest frame of grating.




When the tight bond is dry, cut off the protruding part.




Gluing the grating receiver inside the frame. Otherwise the height will not fit.



Fit the three gratings into the frame.
Ummm... this is...




Next is the creation of a medium graching frame.
The combination is done like this. I forgot to take a photo when I made a big frame.





After bonding, cut the protruding part. After this I also made a small grating frame.




I will put it on the lower deck material. It almost matches. It looks like this.




I got tired of doing all the grating work, so I decided to do something else.
I cut the broken bowsprit attached to the bow of the Flying Dutchman from a round bar.
Adjust the shape to meet the drawing, and cut the root to fit the attachment part of the bow.




I installed it.
It looks like this.





I had a bow split, so I shot the whole picture.
Is it getting more and more like that? ?
This time we are working on fife rails, but this is it for today.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Fai rail and bit work




Build the main mast bit and fie rail. I searched for a 4mm square timber for bits,
but I don't have it on hand.
Then, when I went to buy it at a home center... I have already stopped handling cypress wood for work...
I wonder if the two home centers that were handling cypress wood for work have also stopped...( ； ∀b
Wherever I live, I no longer have access to cypress wood. You have to buy it online...
So, I will make a bit by sticking 2 x 4 mm materials with the materials I have.




I cut out a 2 x 4 mm piece of wood with my hand.
It doesn't mean much, but it's a close-up photo.




Then, first of all, the necessary four pieces of material are pasted together.
Tight bond is used as the adhesive.



Drill holes for belay pins using 1mm thick and 3mm wide material for fife rails.




The diameter of the hole is 0.8mm.




I will combine bits and fife rails.




And it's done.


Deck attachment



When sticking the deck, the workable parts were made first. What is a long stick?
Although it is a board for margin plank, even if it is made, the deck here cannot
see the margin plank parts on the port and starboard sides.
Let's practice margin plank here for the time being. (;^ω^)b




Tight bond is applied to the adhesive part to attach the lower deck.



I have a tight bond like this.




Then, the lower deck material is glued.
The frame of the deck part has a loose R, the middle part is slightly higher,
the center keel part has a loose shear line, and the bow and stern sides are slightly higher.
So, fix the important parts with pins until the tight bond dries. (;^ω^)b




Margin plank parts on the port and starboard sides were pasted, and deck materials near the bow were pasted.
I painted the grating part of the lower deck material with matte black.





This is a close-up photo of the grating part.
That's all for today. I can't concentrate on the model because
I have to change the engine oil of the snow blower, adjust the accelerator, remove the snow, and so on.
……Deck attachment is still ongoing……(´▽`)b

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Continued decking




Eh, it's a continuation of pasting the deck from the last time. I'm working on it,
but I'm not sure if I take a picture because the color of the lower deck material
and the color of the deck material (cypress) are similar...(;^ω^)b




The mellpapa chopper is very useful for cutting the same length of material.
It's easy because you don't have to modify the cut after you cut it.




The edges of the deck material are painted with a pencil. The pencil is 6B thick.



I took a picture of my work bench landscape. I work in front of the liquid crystal
display of my computer. In front of you, you can see the MONO eraser. Next to that
is a face brush, with this brush a tight bond is applied to the back of the deck material
and attached to the lower deck of the deck. Tight bond is in a small bottle next to the brush, Mr. COLOR.
There is water in the big bottle above the brush and I use it for brush washing.
The deck material that has been trimmed is placed next to the chopper.
Well, I'm working on it like this.




Since the edges of the deck material are painted with a pencil, the hands naturally become dirty like this.
This is the right finger.




This is your left finger...
When both hands are so dirty, I wash my hands immediately, clean them, and then work again,
but they get dirty soon.




Somehow it's pasted here. As usual, the color of the deck material and the color of the
lower board are similar, so I don't know unless I look closely.




The FISKARS design knife I bought recently, this handle is very easy to hold,
and my fingers won't hurt even if I put my effort into it. The handle has an isosceles
triangle with a loose cross section, and the material is soft enough to fit your fingers.
The blade I came with when I bought it is A , and it's a bit hard for me to use,
so I'm using the blade of C 's Olfer art knife.
However, it will not fit if it is as it is, so I use it by grinding the opposite side
of the blade and the buttocks with a grinder like B.
The part that holds the blade on the body side of FISKARS is also deeply cut with a piranha saw.




It looks like this when you put on a cap.
It was a tool that fits in my hand after a long time.
I like it so I think I should buy another one.




So I managed to finish attaching the deck. The grating part is not glued yet.
It's a hindrance to put sandpaper.




Stick the inner wall on the left and right sides using wooden clothespins.
The wooden clothespin was bought at a 100 yen shop.
But it looks a little strange.
Mufufu (;^ω^)b




The state above is when I bought it. With this, I can not pinch it with the tip,
so I attached the wooden parts in reverse and used it under the photo.
You can sandwich it with the other person.
I used it on a blog somewhere like this. Great person who thought this!



So, work on the left and right at the same time.



I managed to paste the center of the hull.



This time, I will proceed with the work towards the stern.
But this time, this is it.

Well, that’s all for today. It is the start of snow removal in front of the garage
that has become a snowdrift from now on... ('▽ `)b

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

I finished pasting the inner wall of the hull.
Since I put a 2 mm thick cypress, I couldn't rely on it.



It is the bow side part. The cypress wood stuck inside is protruding.



It is the middle part of the ship.



And here is a close-up photo of the stern.
After sanding the inside, cut off the protruding material.




After sanding the inside, I scratched the surface with a scratching tool.



After that, I did not cut the protruding material on the inner wall yet,
but I glued the fife rail I made earlier.



The first scratching tool cracked while I was using it, and the tip flew somewhere.


It's a close up. It's been brilliantly broken. I used to apply it to my body and healed the curve,
but at last I died.






So, this is the one I made again.



The blade is up. I made it by cutting the tip of the piranha saw below.



When I finish attaching the outer panel and attach the gun deck, I feel relieved...
Then I got tired of making FD...
I wanted to make something different, so I made about two choppers.
Last year, the Asahikawa Model Club members asked us to make it, and we made about five.
At that time, I purchased a lot of materials, so it is production with inventory management
of the materials.
I would like to take it to a model exhibition in Sapporo in the summer and sell it if there
is someone who wants it.
Is anyone really going to use this tool? ?

That's all for today. It was raining today on March 7th. Thanks to this, the tires slip... (´▽`)b

 

[mrshanks]

Excellent and innovative techniques. That is what we like to see!!

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

the Black Pearl and Flying Dutchman builds by Mellpapa give a fresh and entirely new perspective on model ships.

 

[Clair G]

the Black Pearl and Flying Dutchman builds by Mellpapa give a fresh and entirely new perspective on model ships.

Yes and they are just plain out fun to read and enjoy.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 10A



Cut out the material that popped out of the inner wall
Since the lead of the mechanical pencil, 0,5 mm, is gone, I went to a stationery store
near my workplace to buy it...
What? A lot of nostalgic things...

Higomori is placed in the place where a cutter knife or a design knife is displayed..
I thought that it was already destroyed with a Bonknife / Cutter knife .I know if the Bonknife is placed ...

About 6 on the display rack... The price is 320 yen

There are five "Registered Munechika Higo Knife" in front of the photo, and one
"Registered Trademark Higo Mamoru Sadama (large)" in the back.

I bought one at a time.

Where did the Higomori that I had when I was a kid go to...

The only thing I could bring to elementary school was the Bonn knife, which was sold for
about 10 yen at that time... I wonder if Higomori cost about 150-200 yen...

Mamoru Higo used to build at home.

You played an active part by cutting trees.

Immediately, I tried to scrape the protruding inner wall material with Higomori.
The Higomori blade is attached to the right-handed person.

In my case, since it is left-handed, the blade will always face the body.

So my parents often warned me.

"Blade of the knife, toward the outside of the body Take Ke."

However, since I have a knife in my left hand, it's better to point the blade here.




So, the cutting of the inner wall material that popped out without cutting hands was completed.
Mr. "Higo Mamoru", it was very nice.




After I finished the above work, I got a job to draw a picture... It's a free service, but it took
a long time.
During that time, the production of FD was temporarily stopped.

Even after my painting job was over, I took it off for a while.

I'm tired of drawing...

What kind of picture did you draw? A bird's-eye view of the building (sports facility)
and illustrations of the internal facilities in use.

Then, I finally returned to FD and made drawings of the bow deck.



Trace down the lower plate of the bow deck using the remaining part of the 0.6 mm thick aviation veneer,
which is the support plate on the side of FD.




Tracedown has finished.
I used black carbon paper and iron brush. That's the way you always do it.



I tried shooting up the tracedown.
Cut this out.




It was cut out using a cutter knife and a design knife.




Then, it is a temporary assembly.
There is a white and round bow, but it is just a pushpin.
I'm temporarily fixing this.
Sandpaper both sides and the front part to fit the hull.




I will stick 1mm thick cypress wood around the bottom plate that fits the hull.
Once the adhesive dries, assemble it further.
Once it fits into the hull, the deck material is attached.




Oops! !!
A spring that makes the red circle part a grating before pasting the deck material.




It is a craft of grating.
For more information



I incorporated three red circles for grating.



Prepare a tight bond diluted with water in a paint dish.



Grate the 3 pieces of grating in a water-diluted tight bond and let them absorb plenty...




Excess water is sucked into the tissue.



Leave it as it is and let it dry overnight.



Prepare the deck material.
Cut the cypress 1mm thick 3mm width 13cm in length with the right angle chopper as necessary.

Right angle chopper is useful in such a case... (;^ω^)b

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Yes and they are just plain out fun to read and enjoy.

i think what happened is the hobby started to get way to serious. Builders were being very critical with every historical detail, craftsmanship and research had to be of a high level, building has to have every timber perfect and so on. It got to the point even milled wood was criticized for being .005 thousandths off and there were sanding marks from 100 grit sanding paper.
This form of model building is ok it's just another style, problem is 95% of builders in the hobby do not built this way. The bar was set to high and this style sucked the fun right out of the hobby.
Mellpapa restored the "fun" and creativity back in the hobby. He shows us we can use different materials and techniques.

 

[mrshanks]

The bar was set to high and this style sucked the fun right out of the hobby.

More truth again Dave!!! I left the International Plastic Modellers Society (IPMS) back in 1992 when I decided the judging of "scale thickness of paint" on models was just too extreme to be fun.

Sail on!!

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

It is a continuation of the grating work on the bow deck. part 11A




I will cut the left and right.



After finishing the left and right trimming, apply sand pepper to remove the unevenness...
It is cut according to the drawing, but it does not quite follow the drawing.
So it's a close cut.




It is expansion.
Although it is still marked with magic, in the end we will paint the FD No. so we will proceed as it is.




Creating a frame for grating.
I'm using a 2mm square bar.





It looks like this when enlarged.



Then, cut the frame material that popped out in the chopper prototype.
There are various prototypes of the chopper, so I have to use it...


I took a close-up shot.
Since it is a single-edged blade, it can be cut cleanly by applying it to a flat blade.
There is no need to correct the cut.




I set the grating on the lower deck of the deck where the frame had been pasted,
and pasted two deck materials.




The grating frame isn't glued yet.
As shown in the picture.




I will stick two deck materials first and paste them from the left and right,
and I will stick the deck materials around the gratin.




Finally, if you attach only the arrow part with a red circle, the bow deck is over...




I managed to finish pasting.



Remove the grating and file.



After applying sandpaper, I put a grain of wood on it and scraped off the fluff
with a stainless steel scrubber.





The grain is like this.



I drilled a hole for the fore mast and a bit hole in the fife rail.
Then glue the grating with a tight bond.

Completion of the bow deck



.

Immediately, I tried to temporarily assemble it on the hull. It looks like this. It took quite a while.
I'm glad that the grating was beautiful as it is.




It looks like this. It took quite a while. I'm glad that the grating was beautiful as it is.
This time, we will not plug the nails on the deck.
I did it with 1/72 BP, but I could not see it at all when it was dirty and painted.
Since the FD is also stained and painted, it would be a waste of time to reproduce the invisible wooden plug.
Now, next is the deck work on the stern side.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Stern deck work part 12A



It is a drawing of the deck of the stern. I will trace this down to a 0.6mm airline veneer.
Use the usual carbon paper and iron brush, triangle ruler, straight ruler.



Then, trace down immediately.
I used an extra 0.6mm aviation veneer.
I bought Aviation Veneer at Tokyu Hands when I went to Sapporo.
We are out of stock now and are back in stock.
So when I went to Sapporo, I stopped by Hands, ordered it, and received it when it arrived.





It was cut out with a cutter and a design knife.
If you can do this, there is one thing to do...





I will just apply sandpaper according to the hull and make sure the temporary assembly fits exactly.




Work on three stern decks simultaneously.
When the temporary assembly fits perfectly, attach a reinforcing plate to the back side.
It's lined so as not to be distorted.
At that time, attach a camper and line it up.




Stick the edges around the three decks. It is the margin plank part.
It's 1/72, so it's small, so I don't have to do this, but when I draw a deck drawing,
I'm drawing a margin plank...
So, the FD issue actually looks like this... I can't see it in the movie, so I guess...




I shot each margin plank up, so I will post it.
Stern deck 001




Stern deck 002



Stern deck 003



After pasting the margin plank, we will further assemble it with the hull.
When this is over, I'm pasting the deck material...
This is the next one