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I just don't have the experience to know what finish to use. I want a burnished matte on the Bluenose but don't know my options.
Basic training
- Thread starter Ted Robinson
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I USED NORMAL FURNITURE OIL OF VARIOUS TYPES DEPENDING ON THE WOOD.Do not make a minor issue into a big problem
if you do not make mistakes you will never learn -el capi
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Right you are.
I am about half-way through the 1st planking (Polaris) and have deviated from the plans to incorporate the ideas from above (i.e. fillers, rabbeting of the bow portion of the keel, and plank tapering). My thoughts are drifting towards what lies ahead in terms of the 2nd planking (0,5mm planks)
The plans call for using contact cement to adhere the 2nd planking. Is there a preferred method other than using contact cement?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. By the way, this is my 1st full plank on bulkhead project.
...henry
The plans call for using contact cement to adhere the 2nd planking. Is there a preferred method other than using contact cement?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. By the way, this is my 1st full plank on bulkhead project.
...henry
Personally, I use a high tack PVA glue and appropriate clamps to hold the planks. I find contact cement too unforgiving. You have one chance to apply the plank with no room for error or realignment. For high tack glue I like Aleene’s Tacky Glue.
Good luck and fair winds.
Good luck and fair winds.
Is rubber based contact cement permanent long term, as in decades? I have never used it, preferring traditional PVA glue.
I only use rubber cement for temporary use like in placing paper templates on wood. I believe the contact cement Henry is talking about is the permanent variety. I found this article very helpful in the differences…
What Are Uses for Contact Cement?
There are a variety of adhesive materials available for professional craftsmen, home repairs and do-it-yourself projects. Learn about some uses for contact cement in this article.
home.howstuffworks.com
The contact glue shown in the plans is called "Contacto". It is applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry for ~10 minutes before attaching the plank to the hull and is very unforgiving for making any adjustments to re-position. I'll give Olivier's suggestion a try. My hands aren't as steady as they used to be so I need to be able to do some tweaking, if necessary.
You might find this project helpful, Nautical Research Guild Half Hull Planking Project, https://thenrgstore.org/. It is a very comprehensive step by step project that teaches you planking techniques. I was struggling with understanding the correct planking techniques, measuring and tapering, bending and shaping, etc., and decided to invest in this project. The online videos and books just didn't do it for me. For me, it was time and money well spent, I learned a lot. There's a full build log on Model Ship World.
I DID WITH EXCELLENT RESULTS
YES YOU HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL USING CONTACT GLU. FOR ME FOR THE SECOND PLANKING AND DECKS
T WOULD GO FOR CONTACT GLUE - I HAVE ABOUT 50 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE.