I've noticed that a lot of loops are just seized rather than spliced. Are they any near as strong? They sure don't look like it.
Maybe a tiny drop of CA holds things together...I've noticed that a lot of loops are just seized rather than spliced. Are they any near as strong? They sure don't look like it.
They are not as strong as a splice but more than strong enough for what they are used for. They are certainly strong enough for model rigging.I've noticed that a lot of loops are just seized rather than spliced. Are they any near as strong? They sure don't look like it.
You'd be surprised how much extra friction is provided by wrapping a bight around something. Seizing for to form eyes is still used, using metal fastenings for seizing metal cable, and traditional line for seizing rope. Multiple seizes are much stronger than single ones.Yeah, it was oversized ships(real) I was thinking of. I remember the first time I saw one I thought, "That will never hold." and then I kept seeing them so I thought I'd better ask.
"Real ships did not use CA glue".........you're suggesting the use of actual tar for modelling ship rigging?As one who has formal training in rescue rigging (which is quite similar to that on ships) I can confirm that Darivs has the correct answer here. Although long wraps are perhaps more frequently used than several short ones.
Also: Tar has a bonding function, which also adds to the friction coefficient.
Tar can be used at scale. Real ships did not use CA glue.
Get some 1/2" hemp rope, make a simple loop eye and seize it tightly for a foot or so with twine. Hook it over something and try to pull it loose. See for yourself.
"Real ships did not use CA glue".........you're suggesting the use of actual tar for modelling ship rigging?
I'll stick with CA (no pun intended.....)Absolutely! This is both scale and material appropriate. Scale rope can be tarred by thinning the tar with pine turpentine (or perhaps other solvents). If you cannot find real tar, musician's rosin (a refined pine tar) can be blackened with charcoal or candle soot.
You may need to experiment with your method. But model making contains a lot of trial and try again, does it not?
I'll stick with CA (no pun intended.....)
Be careful with the CA it makes the area brittle. I prefer head cement, used by anglers who tie their own flies.Maybe a tiny drop of CA holds things together...
Super glue is deadly, sticks finger skin in an instant, while other surfaces seem to need holding for some time.!Thank you for keeping our little disagreements civil. Please try not to get that CA between your fingers.
I have a bottle of pine tar that I use for staining sails (diluted). I can verify that it's pretty sticky stuff and will probably harden with age. As for replacing glue with it, well, unless you are actually trying to simulate the conditions of a prisoner of war model ship builder while working on your model, I wouldn't choose it.Absolutely! This is both scale and material appropriate. Scale rope can be tarred by thinning the tar with pine turpentine (or perhaps other solvents). If you cannot find real tar, musician's rosin (a refined pine tar) can be blackened with charcoal or candle soot.
You may need to experiment with your method. But model making contains a lot of trial and try again, does it not?
I got zippers on my flies!Be careful with the CA it makes the area brittle. I prefer head cement, used by anglers who tie their own flies.
Deadly?Super glue is deadly, sticks finger skin in an instant, while other surfaces seem to need holding for some time.!