Well, I've finally made a decision! Whew!
Based on everyone's comments, this is what I've decided to do.
First, I was a self employed carpenter / cabinet maker for about 50 years. I specialized in high end restorations, built in place cabinets and custom trim work, and custom elaborate stairways. At one point I had 16 employees and trainees. So, because much of our work was done in the shop and some was done in the field, I have collected lots of hand tools and equipment, plus a shop full of stationary machinery. I have sold off much, but kept one (or 2 ) of each for my own personal use since I retired (kinda) when I turned 75. Old carpenters never retire - they just slowly fade into the woodwork you know.
So, With my full size table saws and band saws, I can take large pieces of wood down into manageable hunks, even if it requires use of my chainsaw sawmill. I can then surface 2 opposing sides on the planer, square up an edge on a table saw or bandsaw, then surface those two sides. By slicing off slabs from 1/4" on up, I can cut a slab and surface the two cut faces keeping the pieces flat and parallel. These slabs can be made nearly any thickness I want on the planer. This thickness then becomes the width of strip stock by ripping the slab into strips on a mini saw ( which I will buy ) with the edges finished. If ripped slightly oversize, they can then be finished to final size accurately, simultaneously providing a smooth finish, probably as thin as 1/16" ? maybe, on a thicknessing sander, which I am building now. Sounds complicated, but, no more involved than most any other woodworking project. It's just in miniature. Plus, I'll be able to furnish myself with woods that are very hard or impossible to get in mini / micro sizes.
I believe in Hobbit99's comments on safety. I've seen too many really serious injuries not to take it seriously. I think that initial resizing on full size commercial/industrial equipment, then final sizing and finishing on Mini equipment sized appropriately for the job is the way to go. I sure wouldn't even want to try making tiny mouldings with full size tools.
I still have all my digits and want to stay that way. I had 3 injuries in 50 some years. Shot a spike from a nail gun into the ball of my thumb. (my son neatly freaked out when I told him to pull it out with a pair of vice grips), Nicked my forefinger with a skillsaw (26 stitches, left the joint between the first and second part fused together), drilled a hole through the middle of my palm. Always the left hand - the tool is in my right. That hand, with other cuts and such had about 50 or so stitches over the years.
So, I ordered the MicroMark rip tablesaw and will be working on completing the thickness sander. In the meantime, I wait for wood for the canoe build to come fron Dave and Sergey.
Thanks for everyone's input. It helped me make some decisions, formulate a procedure and save some money too. What's not to like?
EJ
Based on everyone's comments, this is what I've decided to do.
First, I was a self employed carpenter / cabinet maker for about 50 years. I specialized in high end restorations, built in place cabinets and custom trim work, and custom elaborate stairways. At one point I had 16 employees and trainees. So, because much of our work was done in the shop and some was done in the field, I have collected lots of hand tools and equipment, plus a shop full of stationary machinery. I have sold off much, but kept one (or 2 ) of each for my own personal use since I retired (kinda) when I turned 75. Old carpenters never retire - they just slowly fade into the woodwork you know.
So, With my full size table saws and band saws, I can take large pieces of wood down into manageable hunks, even if it requires use of my chainsaw sawmill. I can then surface 2 opposing sides on the planer, square up an edge on a table saw or bandsaw, then surface those two sides. By slicing off slabs from 1/4" on up, I can cut a slab and surface the two cut faces keeping the pieces flat and parallel. These slabs can be made nearly any thickness I want on the planer. This thickness then becomes the width of strip stock by ripping the slab into strips on a mini saw ( which I will buy ) with the edges finished. If ripped slightly oversize, they can then be finished to final size accurately, simultaneously providing a smooth finish, probably as thin as 1/16" ? maybe, on a thicknessing sander, which I am building now. Sounds complicated, but, no more involved than most any other woodworking project. It's just in miniature. Plus, I'll be able to furnish myself with woods that are very hard or impossible to get in mini / micro sizes.
I believe in Hobbit99's comments on safety. I've seen too many really serious injuries not to take it seriously. I think that initial resizing on full size commercial/industrial equipment, then final sizing and finishing on Mini equipment sized appropriately for the job is the way to go. I sure wouldn't even want to try making tiny mouldings with full size tools.
I still have all my digits and want to stay that way. I had 3 injuries in 50 some years. Shot a spike from a nail gun into the ball of my thumb. (my son neatly freaked out when I told him to pull it out with a pair of vice grips), Nicked my forefinger with a skillsaw (26 stitches, left the joint between the first and second part fused together), drilled a hole through the middle of my palm. Always the left hand - the tool is in my right. That hand, with other cuts and such had about 50 or so stitches over the years.
So, I ordered the MicroMark rip tablesaw and will be working on completing the thickness sander. In the meantime, I wait for wood for the canoe build to come fron Dave and Sergey.
Thanks for everyone's input. It helped me make some decisions, formulate a procedure and save some money too. What's not to like?
EJ