A lot of wisdom in this group. I thank you all for you comments and thoughts... It has given me so much to ponder. I do like some of the kits that everyone has recommended... I found a video on YouTube of a gentlemen building the Albatros by Occre. I like the looks of that one as far as kits go... I also like the idea of building the 3 kit Shipwright Series by Model Expo. So when it comes time to pic a kit I have some thinking to do. I found a few cross section kits as well and think those are pretty cool too... so much to build so little time. LOL... Another great idea was by Bob Ellis. I love the idea of when I decide to go scratch that I double the size of my cheap kit and build that from scratch... I scanned everything and could port that over to AutoCAD PDQ... So.... Like I said lots to ponder. Thanks again everyone for all your thoughts and insight... Truly appreciated.
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Welcome aboard. I would definitely start with a kit to build up skills and experience… there is definitely no substitute for building a model and I find my techniques develop and change as I get more experience. Also I would not underestimate the various tool’s required to make your modelling easier and hence more enjoyable… I have spent more on tools over the past 3 years than I have spent on kits. Good luck with whatever you decide
Hi all, i was about to make exact same thread and saw this one so i am little bit hijacking and add some more questions sorry about that,
first of all English is not my native language so sorry about my mistakes,
I also built plastic plane/tank/ship model kits, my own rc planes with mostly foam and balsa wood and paint figure models that i 3d print. I am also fascinated with scratch builds, eventually i want to build century old ship from century old drawings. I already have a dremel motosaw, a table saw and rotary hobby tool so i think i am ok with required tools.
I was also tempted chinese cheap model to see at least try if i can build somewhat decent ship, but after i saw this topic i ordered my first kits (artesania drakkar viking ship and occre polaris). while waiting anxiously i checked online instructions for polaris and realised i already have plans and all kind of balsa/linden/mdf sheets due to my other projects.
my first question is can i print these plans as they call original size pages and cut wood accordingly as cheat sheet and build from scratch? do i need their wood or other parts to work with? i saw nearly all their kits has this kind instructions, are they really original scale so i can print?
second question is, i have good amount of mdf sheets 2-3-5mm thickness 25x35 (we use metric system) i dont see any one suggesting mdf is there a reason not to use them as hull and interior parts?
thanks in advance i already learn a lot of things from this forum its like gold mine and ii am digging,
first of all English is not my native language so sorry about my mistakes,
I also built plastic plane/tank/ship model kits, my own rc planes with mostly foam and balsa wood and paint figure models that i 3d print. I am also fascinated with scratch builds, eventually i want to build century old ship from century old drawings. I already have a dremel motosaw, a table saw and rotary hobby tool so i think i am ok with required tools.
I was also tempted chinese cheap model to see at least try if i can build somewhat decent ship, but after i saw this topic i ordered my first kits (artesania drakkar viking ship and occre polaris). while waiting anxiously i checked online instructions for polaris and realised i already have plans and all kind of balsa/linden/mdf sheets due to my other projects.
my first question is can i print these plans as they call original size pages and cut wood accordingly as cheat sheet and build from scratch? do i need their wood or other parts to work with? i saw nearly all their kits has this kind instructions, are they really original scale so i can print?
second question is, i have good amount of mdf sheets 2-3-5mm thickness 25x35 (we use metric system) i dont see any one suggesting mdf is there a reason not to use them as hull and interior parts?
thanks in advance i already learn a lot of things from this forum its like gold mine and ii am digging,
MDF (medium density fiberboard) is not a flexible material. It turns to powder when sanded and does not like moisture at all. It is dense and heavy and chips easily especially when compared to plywoods of the same dimensions. Personally, I'd avoid MDF in models but that is my choice and opinion.
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IF (and that is a true question to be answered), the .pdf documents you have found are truly formatted to the correct sheet size, then you could potentially use them as reference material to attempt a scratch build. That said, I would advise you purchase a kit for your first build. The reason for that is simple. It contains all the materials you need to construct the model. Yes, you could scavenge wood from other projects (avoiding MDF as others have noted), but the big consideration is that a kit will also include a lot of metal fittings that you'll need to complete the model, as well as wooden blocks for rigging purposes. Just find a good laser cut kit of a ship that you like and tackle that as your first project.
I too used to build model planes from balsa wood kits (Guillows), and though those kits usually provided plans, balsa wood, tissue for covering the model, and sometimes a bit of wire for shaping into landing gear... a model ship kit contains many, many more custom metal parts. That is truly one of the bigger differences between wooden model planes and wooden model ships.
yes i understand that, i already bought two kits and pdf files we are talking about from producers own websites and open to all, i am adding polaris just for example. i was checking their site for any building videos and found these.
on MDF topic, i see the reasoning, its too bad, i have many of them and i can not use them for rc planes either.
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Chris Watton uses MDF for Vanguard models. Amati also use it on their Victory Models line. I bought some from a supplier Chris recommended and used it for the hull skeleton with no problems. Faring the bulkheads didn't cause any negative effects and the cut edges were better than most plywoods that the mainstream kits use. It depends on the quality of the MDF. The product I'm using (and Amati's) is very dense. Stuff for the building trade is probably lower quality.
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My experience with MDF is extensive. Yes, it can be used for models in thin sheets and as a matetial, its very stable. But it won't hold a screw or nail very well at all. It swells when wet, including PVA glues that have a moisture content. I think if you like it then use it. I'll avoid it as there are other materials that are at least as useful, and lighter as well as strong. Like I mentioned before, my opinion. ( I have 4'x 8' x 3/4" sheets in my shop - but use it for building, not modelling).
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With regard to nails and screws I never use them, nails possibly to simulate door knobs etc! Thinking about the moisture content of PVA I think it's likely that this is where quality is the issue. The product used by Vanguard and Amati is extremely dense. One of my problems is sourcing good ply ( for scratch bulkheads). B&Q (UK's Homebase equivalent) is generally low grade products, even the marine grades don't sand or shape well for bulkheads with a tendency to splinter at the fared edges. I've even tried sapelle and had breakages.
I have to say I have so far found that it holds it's shape, doesn't readily break on the bulkhead extensions and sands very well. As for the builder's materials, I think this is different stuff entirely.
Honestly Phil, I would recommend it. But I think we may be talking at cross purposes. The building trade stuff is categorically not the same.
Mdf can be used but …. A lot of thought / add to must be adhered too.
Natural materials - use anything. But long levity to ease has been discussed like pear to lime etc…
There is no can nots just brain thinking
I still use shavings to make items from : soaking to glueing to laminating
It depends on jigs to how you think…. To dexterity skills
I knew a model builder who used cow bone, paper to old shoes / beach rulers to pvc glue and bottle tubs / coke cans….
It really upset me that his models were highly detailed / gave a feeling of art.
Just try it, do it, experiment, research and adapt …..
I suppose laser cutting or cnc milling basic pieces 1st then clad is a possibility?
Who is that woman who uses vinyls and makes super models? Incredible! My opinion….
If you do!
Please show us mortals the next level, please….
Happy building
Natural materials - use anything. But long levity to ease has been discussed like pear to lime etc…
There is no can nots just brain thinking
I still use shavings to make items from : soaking to glueing to laminating
It depends on jigs to how you think…. To dexterity skills
I knew a model builder who used cow bone, paper to old shoes / beach rulers to pvc glue and bottle tubs / coke cans….
It really upset me that his models were highly detailed / gave a feeling of art.
Just try it, do it, experiment, research and adapt …..
I suppose laser cutting or cnc milling basic pieces 1st then clad is a possibility?
Who is that woman who uses vinyls and makes super models? Incredible! My opinion….
If you do!
Please show us mortals the next level, please….
Happy building
I’ve used mdf for strongbacks to provide a framework for building boats. After the boat is built, I remove the strongback. Then I put in frames. Mdf does serve a good purpose there. (See my Galilee boat log below.)
Galilee Boat kit from Scott Miller [COMPLETED BUILD]
I’m starting the Galilee Boat by Scott Miller, a maker of excellent guitars. He makes boats and kits based on a boat from the First Century AD that was found at the bottom of the Sea of Galilee. This could very well be the kind of boat that Jesus plied the sea with during the early part of that...
shipsofscale.com
what glue do you use for the MDF? Just PVA or something that is not water based like epoxy?
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PVA. Any except Titebond, but that's personal choice!
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I built the Occre Polaris as my first wood build and being an amateur found it challenging but with great satisfactio. I’m now building the HMS GOLDEN HIND and fI ding it VERY challenging now being at the sails and rigging. Occre are very helpful with guidance and parts I’ve broken.A highly recommended compay. I believe I would wish to gain more experience before attempting a scratch build . P.S. as the the saying goes you only get what you pay for, Chinese €10.reputed company €80 why You may ask. ??
There are many aspects of modelling that are overlooked or not considered by beginners when selecting their first project. That's not a criticism, simply part of the learning curve. What tools do I need, how do I finish the model, what type paints, acrylic, enamel, stain to use, which glue, CA, epoxy, carpenters glue, lighting, work surface, different grad of sandpaper, sanding sticks, rigging, knot tying, shaping masts, etc.
Agree with Corsair, I belong to Mystic Seaport Ship Modelers and recommend beginners consider a Model Shipways Shipwright Series Kit. They are inexpensive, quality material, and have excellent step by step instructions and tips. Check the Model Expo site and you can pull up one of the Kit Instruction Manuals.
Good luck.
Agree with Corsair, I belong to Mystic Seaport Ship Modelers and recommend beginners consider a Model Shipways Shipwright Series Kit. They are inexpensive, quality material, and have excellent step by step instructions and tips. Check the Model Expo site and you can pull up one of the Kit Instruction Manuals.
Good luck.
unfortunately my country its very hard to reach many kits, there are some dealers are selling occre and Astenia models but again very limited.
also tools are hard to come by, for example my drakkar viking kit arrived and i started but i am having difficulties with bending planks. i searched online but no plank bending tools here. we have qouta for importing and most probably i already reached my limit so i made this rig for now, i ll use soldering iron for rest.
also tools are hard to come by, for example my drakkar viking kit arrived and i started but i am having difficulties with bending planks. i searched online but no plank bending tools here. we have qouta for importing and most probably i already reached my limit so i made this rig for now, i ll use soldering iron for rest.
Since so many people recommend Model shipway's beginner series, I bought Norwegian Pram. Unfortunately, I can now state that it was a mistake.
English is not my first language and I think that these kits are aimed at those who are really good at the English language. There isn't even a real blueprint in the kit and of course no exploded views. The pictures are very small and difficult for my old eyes.
All of this is so much better in the Polaris kit which I think is by far the best entry level kit I've tried so far.
So I would like to urge all you Americans to consider the nationality of the beginner when recommending a kit.
For most non-native speakers of English, real drawings and clear images are much more important than a lot of text.
I recommend all beginners to buy Mastini's Ship Modeling simplified.Very good and clear illustrations make it work for an old Swede.
(I have found a good build log for the Norwegian Pram and with the help of it I will get the kit together I think.But then I have built a few hulls so I have a certain habit, if I had been a complete beginner I would have given up on Norwegian Pram.)
English is not my first language and I think that these kits are aimed at those who are really good at the English language. There isn't even a real blueprint in the kit and of course no exploded views. The pictures are very small and difficult for my old eyes.
All of this is so much better in the Polaris kit which I think is by far the best entry level kit I've tried so far.
So I would like to urge all you Americans to consider the nationality of the beginner when recommending a kit.
For most non-native speakers of English, real drawings and clear images are much more important than a lot of text.
I recommend all beginners to buy Mastini's Ship Modeling simplified.Very good and clear illustrations make it work for an old Swede.
(I have found a good build log for the Norwegian Pram and with the help of it I will get the kit together I think.But then I have built a few hulls so I have a certain habit, if I had been a complete beginner I would have given up on Norwegian Pram.)
Вот на АлиЭкспресс термоапликатор для сгибания реек можно купить, с помощью его можно гнуть рейки не намачивая их водой.
Смотри, что есть на AliExpress! Набор страз горячей фиксации, цвета и комплектация в ассортименте за 1 119 ₽ - уже со скидкой -36%
You can buy a thermal applicator for bending slats on AliExpress; with its help you can bend slats without wetting them with water.
Look what's on AliExpress! A set of hot-fix rhinestones, assorted colors and accessories for 1,119 ₽ - already with a -36% discount
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Here is a link to a YouTube video on building the Pram kit.Since so many people recommend Model shipway's beginner series, I bought Norwegian Pram. Unfortunately, I can now state that it was a mistake.
English is not my first language and I think that these kits are aimed at those who are really good at the English language. There isn't even a real blueprint in the kit and of course no exploded views. The pictures are very small and difficult for my old eyes.
All of this is so much better in the Polaris kit which I think is by far the best entry level kit I've tried so far.
So I would like to urge all you Americans to consider the nationality of the beginner when recommending a kit.
For most non-native speakers of English, real drawings and clear images are much more important than a lot of text.
I recommend all beginners to buy Mastini's Ship Modeling simplified.Very good and clear illustrations make it work for an old Swede.
(I have found a good build log for the Norwegian Pram and with the help of it I will get the kit together I think.But then I have built a few hulls so I have a certain habit, if I had been a complete beginner I would have given up on Norwegian Pram.)
Link here\
Maybe that will help.