LE COUREUR - french Lugger 1776 - POF kit from CAF in 1:48 by Uwe

My friends,
many thanks for all your comments, hints and remarks - and off course also for the received likes

Before I started with the guns, I made the preparations on the hull, means the installation of the bolts for the gun tackles visible outside of the hull.

Here the manual descriptions for your information

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shown are two bolt ends located at each side of the gunports - the upper one for the ringbolt for the tackle and the lower ones for the hooks of the breeching rope

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The inner ringbolt and hook I decided to install later on together finally with the guns - it is much easier to prepare the complete tackle incl. the ringsbolts and hooks at the gun, compared to the necessary work to fix the tackle, when they are already installed at the railing.

As usual I compared the bolt solution with the Boudriot monograph

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and photos showing scratch build models

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and realized, that there are outside only two bolts at each gunport visible

closer look at the Boudriots drawing of the Le Coureur is showing us a different type of fixing the gun tackles and breeching rope - unfortunately no sideview

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Only with this drawing I did not understand, how this bolt could look like (nowhere else in the monograph is shown something), but I found the final missing info in the monograph of the Le Cerf also by jean Boudriot.

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so it is a combined hook with implemented ring

Once more it is getting clear, that the recoil forces of such 2 and 3pdr guns was not very high.

From technical point of view I have my doupts (this is now brainstorming), if such a combined ring-hook was really working well ?!?!

Usually on bigger or other guns the fixing points were organized like this:
The hook or bolt for the breeching rope is lower installed than the ringbolt for the gun tackle! So the tackle of the gun was everytime free to remove from the hook or not covered by the breeching rope

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I am sure it was partly problematic with such a ring hook

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beacuse here the ring for the tackle (green) is installed under the hook of the breeching rope (red)

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see also the photos of a Le Cerf model

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I guess it was sometimes no easy to handle and the ropes were sometimes, after the gun recoiled, not easy to get free or to handle......

Sorry for the longer and maybe for a lot members uninteresting subject, but I am still thinking about to make one combined or two seperate fixing points........
An interesting action that happened when I was firing my small blackpowder cannon, viewed in very slow motion, was that the carrige would "leap" up and backwads when the shot was fired. The breach was not elevated very highly to drive the carriage downwards. Leaping guns with tons of weight would definately be a hazzard if a full sized gun would recoil in the same manner. Nice work on your part. Rich (PT-2)
 
Many thanks to all of you for your comments, information hints and brainstorming - still open for comments off course.
It seems, that such combined hooks were used on french smaller ships (like the Cerf, Amaranthe etc.
Nevertheless I have also my doupts, if I am able to produce 16 of such hooks with an acceptable quality.
My first attempt using a hook and adjust it was failing, so in momenr I do not see a good solution. I guess also, that the best would be casting some.

But I have some more time to decide and produce, until I finally fix the guns on the deck

For now I made only one level of iron bolts on the outer side of the hull close to the gunports

I used the small rings of the photo etched sheet and a 0,8mm brass wire pieces
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blackened these parts

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and glued them together

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and these "bolts" are now looking like these

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and a better view from the side - I think they are looking realistic
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Many thanks to all of you for your comments, information hints and brainstorming - still open for comments off course.
It seems, that such combined hooks were used on french smaller ships (like the Cerf, Amaranthe etc.
Nevertheless I have also my doupts, if I am able to produce 16 of such hooks with an acceptable quality.
My first attempt using a hook and adjust it was failing, so in momenr I do not see a good solution. I guess also, that the best would be casting some.

But I have some more time to decide and produce, until I finally fix the guns on the deck

For now I made only one level of iron bolts on the outer side of the hull close to the gunports

I used the small rings of the photo etched sheet and a 0,8mm brass wire pieces
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blackened these parts

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and glued them together

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and these "bolts" are now looking like these

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and a better view from the side - I think they are looking realistic
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Very nicely executed work here. May I ask what the scale of the ship is? Also the treenails as I will be using something probably smaller on my Kryenia boat to simulate the same for the mortise and tenon hull strakes which were not "nailed" to frames but created a shell for the gull itself.
Rich (PT-2)
 
That's the hook, man! How was it made, that's my question.
That looks like some patient bending, hammering and filing to shape before drilling the hole for the ring. Must be in a small scale, large piece, size. Just thinking . . . ????? :rolleyes: Rich (PT-2)
 
That's the hook, man! How was it made, that's my question.
Based on the hint with the Amarante made by Tobias - we do not have to look so far away

In detail shown in the building log of the amazing 1:30 model of the L´ Amarante made by our member Gianpiero alias @Giampy65

Link to the building log:

I guess it is ok for him to use his photos and copy his photos once more here in this log, so you can see the work - highly interesting and a very good result...... off course they are bigger than our becessary hooks in 1:48, but it would be a solution to produce them in scratch

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Very good work !!!

Hope to see soon also more on his @Giampy65 ´s actual project of the Swan class HMS Pegasus in 1:36

 
Very nicely executed work here. May I ask what the scale of the ship is? Also the treenails as I will be using something probably smaller on my Kryenia boat to simulate the same for the mortise and tenon hull strakes which were not "nailed" to frames but created a shell for the gull itself.
Rich (PT-2)
Hallo Rich,
the scale is 1:48
The treenails you mentioned, and I guess you mean the hull planking and not deck are (better to say) boltings and not wooden treenails. The french used for such clinker built hulls mainly bolts to fix the planks - I was using here small copper nails with diameter 0,5 mm for the planking and 0,6 mm for the wales.
Just checked the posts in my log - I started with the preparation and the nailing this February, so if you are interested in more details please check the lengthy descriptions starting from here:

IMG-5709.jpg IMG-5711.jpg
 
Hallo Rich,
the scale is 1:48
The treenails you mentioned, and I guess you mean the hull planking and not deck are (better to say) boltings and not wooden treenails. The french used for such clinker built hulls mainly bolts to fix the planks - I was using here small copper nails with diameter 0,5 mm for the planking and 0,6 mm for the wales.
Just checked the posts in my log - I started with the preparation and the nailing this February, so if you are interested in more details please check the lengthy descriptions starting from here:

View attachment 259074 View attachment 259075
Thanks for the process and link. I'll look at that. My pending need will be very small in dimensions of the 1:43 scale as in the actual 1:2 the tennons were spaced 12 cm apart side by side and with anchoring pegs 6 cm above and below each strake fastening them together. The tennons were staggered between those above and the next one below in a Z type of layout for the lengths of every strake. Taking 12 cm full size down to 1/43 scale is a very small dimension and lots of those simulated treenail pegs which were then also set with a copper nail being driven into the end. What copper nailing that was done was driving fhrough members and clinched on the interior face with a long and shorter leg making a type of U shape to the inside nail shape which I will likely have to disregard and not execute. 1:43 is a larger boat than 1:48 but still a small size for me to work with. Rich
 
I have still some time until the inner hook question has to be decided, nevertheless I will try once the way shown by @Giampy65 with the additional "material" - some experiments have to follow
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So definitely some time to start with the "main guns" of the Le Coureur.

the words by Jean Boudriot....
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and here as usual the sketches in the manual

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The different parts of the guns are well prepared and of very good material quality

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I started first the assembly of one gun in order to test the different working steps. Afterwards, when everything is tested I am able to start the "mass-production" of the remaining seven guns

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I first step was done - so I will now make the other seven wooden gun carriages - until now no "metal" works done
 
I have still some time until the inner hook question has to be decided, nevertheless I will try once the way shown by @Giampy65 with the additional "material" - some experiments have to follow
View attachment 259555 View attachment 259556


So definitely some time to start with the "main guns" of the Le Coureur.

the words by Jean Boudriot....
View attachment 259560

and here as usual the sketches in the manual

View attachment 259557

View attachment 259558

View attachment 259559

The different parts of the guns are well prepared and of very good material quality

View attachment 259561

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I started first the assembly of one gun in order to test the different working steps. Afterwards, when everything is tested I am able to start the "mass-production" of the remaining seven guns

View attachment 259563

View attachment 259564

View attachment 259565

I first step was done - so I will now make the other seven wooden gun carriages - until now no "metal" works done
The length of the barrel looks too long for the carriage but I recall that some calibers were cast with long barrels. It looks nice in place. RIch
 
The length of the barrel looks too long for the carriage but I recall that some calibers were cast with long barrels. It looks nice in place. RIch
These guns were only 3pdr guns, so relatively light barrels or muzzles.
The 1:48 version muzzle is full casted and not rebored, so in moment they bent forward (you will se this soon in some photos) - I tried to drill them out, to make them lighter in the front part, but a drop of glue will make the deal at the end.

The design of muzzle and carriage are confirmed in detail by Jean Boudriot, who was a real specialist in all kind of naval gunnery and weapons, shotguns etc.


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so step by step I am working on the guns - first finishing the wooden works on the eight carriages

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and the wheels - I made with a knife the hal cut and with a spike I tried to immitate the small bolts

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aftwards I blackened the small pins to fix the wheels (and also the necessary eyebolts for later) - the heads of the pins are appr.1mm

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the small pins have to be bended by 90° before the blackening

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Now we can see, that all the wheels of the guns will stand on top of the deck planking - this was also part of the preparation of the deck planking months ago with the help of the gun-paper-dummies

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but before I finish the finish of the muzzles I had to finish or prepare the iron parts on the carriages - once more first on the trial carriage (No. 1 of 8)

the rings of the tackles were blackened and installed as well the small heads of the vertical bolts (they are appr. 0,5mm square - you see the toothpick on the right side
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here the carriage with a muzzle and the two capsquares
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This here is an excerpt sketch showing the detail of the typical fixing of the muzzle on the carriage - the capsquare with all elements
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With the top view (two photos above) we can see, that the brass part of the kit are slightly too big - so I tried to reduce either the length and also the width by sanding - on the following photo -> the lower one on the carriage is slghtly adjusted, the above one is original

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Now I had to think of how to bend this small flat capsquare - I first try with round pliers was not very nice and took to much time, so I had to try something else

my final solution simple but very effective:
I used a square brass bar and sanded in 90° a semicircle notch - a small piece of double sided tape fixed the flat capsquare

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and this was my simple counter - a drill bit fixed with tape on my smallest bench vise

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and finished was my bending tool

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and the final result
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also on the carriage you can see the capsquare joint bolts and the capsquare eyebolt

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