YQ Bluenose Ted R

RDN1954 said:
You can't leave it out or too long; once you're at the step of installing longerons 102 and 103 they need to be in.
(I think I at least broke three of these spider legs, before covering up...)
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Ok, I'll finish the sanding/fairing and then install them. Probably going to be a lot of manipulation of the hull getting mine straightened out.
 
Daniel20 said:
I would say that is your wisest choice, Ted. I found out the hard way this ship is very unforgiving when you start building her out of her very tight tolerances.
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I removed frame 13 to move it up a little. Of course I broke one of the legs. This is perfect reinforcement for doing it accurately the first time. I didn't really understand all of the parameters I should have been tracking during the first install. You can bet that is a lesson I won't forget.
Photo of the leg b1714340270249850686562798289113.jpgeing glued.
 
Ted Robinson said:
I removed frame 13 to move it up a little. Of course I broke one of the legs. This is perfect reinforcement for doing it accurately the first time. I didn't really understand all of the parameters I should have been tracking during the first install. You can bet that is a lesson I won't forget.
Photo of the leg bView attachment 444458eing glued.
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Thank you. Thus is a demanding past time isn't it
 
Ted Robinson said:
I removed frame 13 to move it up a little. Of course I broke one of the legs. This is perfect reinforcement for doing it accurately the first time. I didn't really understand all of the parameters I should have been tracking during the first install. You can bet that is a lesson I won't forget.
Photo of the leg bView attachment 444458eing glued.
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And another member for the BFC (Broken Frame Club)!
I think the best thing to do is to read the instructions and drawings carefully and to try and be four or five steps ahead in your mind from where youu're actually at. Oh, and going through build logs from others, that is immensely illuminating.
 
RDN1954 said:
And another member for the BFC (Broken Frame Club)!
I think the best thing to do is to read the instructions and drawings carefully and to try and be four or five steps ahead in your mind from where youu're actually at. Oh, and going through build logs from others, that is immensely illuminating.
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I agree, I'm constantly reading build logs. They are a guiding light for this project. The misaligned errors I m making are fairly small but an indication of my lack of experience. I've learned more about ship modeling from this kit than I had previously. My total experience is at about 5 months at this point. However I am not daunted by what lies ahead.
I am going through realigning the frames at this point. I am not quite sure what an acceptable discrepancy is allowable and should be left for sanding.
Once again, I want to thank you gentlemen for your guidance and assistance. It's invaluable
Ted
 
Ted Robinson said:
I have the frames aligned almost perfectly using a planking strip. I'm seeing that the notches don't fall in line at the center. But work in a sweeping manner otherwise. Should these frames be moved up to fall in line. Or should some other modification be done.View attachment 444750View attachment 444751View attachment 444749
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Hi Ted. That is looking much better. Check also if the top of the frames are flat with the bottom/underside of the jig. Perhaps that with align the notches.
Regards, Peter
 
Ted Robinson said:
I have the frames aligned almost perfectly using a planking strip. I'm seeing that the notches don't fall in line at the center. But work in a sweeping manner otherwise. Should these frames be moved up to fall in line. Or should some other modification be done.View attachment 444750View attachment 444751View attachment 444749
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The notches have a discrete step at frame 27, if memory serves me correctly. The step is from the fore- to the quarterdeck. The notches of the fore deck should have their own upward sweeping curve towards the bow, while the notches, belonging to the quarter deck frames should sweep upwards towards the stern. Both curves should show a smooth curvature, although some variation is inevitable. Also, at the keel, the lower edges of the frames should form a smooth conti curve over the entire length of the keel. See the attached picture.

IMG_0479.jpeg
 
RDN1954 said:
The notches have a discrete step at frame 27, if memory serves me correctly. The step is from the fore- to the quarterdeck. The notches of the fore deck should have their own upward sweeping curve towards the bow, while the notches, belonging to the quarter deck frames should sweep upwards towards the stern. Both curves should show a smooth curvature, although some variation is inevitable. Also, at the keel, the lower edges of the frames should form a smooth conti curve over the entire length of the keel. See the attached picture.

View attachment 444789
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Thanks, I'll spend some time with looking for a correlation between the frame misalignment and flush with the bottom of the jig
 
Here's a photo of the bottom of the jig. I found no correlation between the frames that are not flush with the bottom of the jig and misaligned at the deck level notch. Some that are perfectly flat at the bottom and in fairing are the ones out of alignment at the notch level. Maybe not perfectly assembled as a frame?
Ted17144944593043689451603661830747.jpg
 
At this point I have become frustrated. I'm going to build something else like a piece of deck furniture while I try to figure out if I have to remove all the frames and start over.
Thank you for the birthday card.
Ted
 
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