Too Much Waste while using 0.5 mm Polyester(PES) Yarn by Rigging

[Korsan]

By rigging I am also using 0.5 mm (thickness) cotton (CO)yarn . Shortly I ordered from Modelbau Takelgarn 0.5 mm PES based yarn .While working with it I noticed whenever you cut it,it splits extremly. Before you work it out,you have always to glue or heat the ends and much yarn and glue is wasted in that way.
I think the base material is to stiff compared to CO based yarn or it is not fixed well after spinning.
See attachment(dark colored is PES and the light one is CO just after being cutted, both without any treatment) Both yarns have actually wonderfull structure despite their small thicknesses

 

[danielsje]

Unfortunately you are correct. I use a small drop of CA to fix ends where I want to cut to prevent unraveling On rigging threads prone to this. We can minimize waste but not eliminate it. After finishing rigging a three masted model I have a fairly large pile of thread ends as waste. Just part of modeling and a result to be factored into the build. Sometimes trying to save rigging thread by using very short pieces makes rigging exponentially more difficult Because we end up trying to work a too short thread through blocks or around belay pins. I always spin off a good length of rigging thread so I have enough to work with as I build up the rig. Yes, it does create a pile of ends that I sometimes save to use when a six or eight inch piece of rigging thread will work.

 

[Korsan]

Hi Danielsje
I used that PES- yarn for the first time.Cotton yarn from the same company with same thickness doesn’t show this character (one can see the difference in the photo I’ve allready sent ),therefore very very less waste with CO-Yarn.Further i don’t have a spinning facility because of place inefficiency unfortunately , I have to buy it ~5.0 EU/15 meters. The reason why I posted itto the SoS- Society is to inform interested members about this handycap of this PES -Yarn
Stay Healthy and happy modeling and kind regards

 

[Short John Bronze]

I'm having similar problems with the thread supplied with a Master Korabel kit. It unravels when cut, is slippery and springy and knots undo themselves. I guess it is some form of synthetic. Trying to secure a knot with PVA is not very effective as it does not stick to the thread very well. Small dots of CA glue tend to wick along the thread and make it stiff. I wish that I had bought a substitute (which?) before I started the rigging but it is too late now.

 

[danielsje]

I'm having similar problems with the thread supplied with a Master Korabel kit. It unravels when cut, is slippery and springy and knots undo themselves. I guess it is some form of synthetic. Trying to secure a knot with PVA is not very effective as it does not stick to the thread very well. Small dots of CA glue tend to wick along the thread and make it stiff. I wish that I had bought a substitute (which?) before I started the rigging but it is too late now.

I understand the CA wicking problem! I use CA gel…a small drop where I need the rigging threads or knots to be secured…the gel tends to not wick as much and when applied to a knot hardly wicks past the knot itself. At least the gel (or very thick) CA helps control wicking a bit in my experience…

 

[bandido]

I use combination of Bees wax and a rosin mix that I used on my leather projects for the sewing twine / thread, works great gets rid of the fuzz takes the ribbon effect out and keeps the thread straight and true, helps the unraveling issues and gives the rigging thread that pitched look works great for me,

 

[bandido]

In my response above I actually used pine tar rather than rosin with the bees wax!!!

 

[Korsan]

Hi Bandido
Using bee wax is very useful if you use cotton linen based yarns.I also used it by all the models( at moment I am starting the rigging of my 5th modelship) which I finished until now.Even in my childhood I used bee wax for my kite lines.It gives a supplementary strength(acts like an external weak glue for the fibers which are forming the yarn) , gliding and smoothness (less fuzz) effect to the yarn.because it also reduces the absorbtion of the enviromental humidity etc. the lifetime of the yarns which are treated with are longer.But there is a handicap which I don’t like it at all, namely it disturbs the fine structure of the spinning and the voluminous looking of the yarn(see the attachment,the yarns on the right side are with wax treated version of the same yarn on the left side).using synthetic yarns without need for waxing is another case .
Anyway as cretors for the modelship everbody has his own methods and choices but it is good to share experiences
Kind regards from Bosphorus

 

[bandido]

yes, I see what you mean! I will look at that more closely when I get to my rigging on my ship
Thanks

 

[Korsan]

Tip:
You can treat the allready waxed yarn wit a hair dryer for a minute or less with a very very slight tension or without tension applied ,so part of the wax from the surface of the thread penetrates into the yarn and structure looks better .spec by yarns thicker than 0.6 mm.
Better you experiment before to see the result

 

[Korsan]

I am now also thinking using microwave for few seconds but I never tried it .At the moment in my present location (I am in Kalipoli Çanakkale for summer vacation for the next 2 months) I don’t have the possibility to try it.

 

[bandido]

Hi Bandido
Using bee wax is very useful if you use cotton linen based yarns.I also used it by all the models( at moment I am starting the rigging of my 5th modelship) which I finished until now.Even in my childhood I used bee wax for my kite lines.It gives a supplementary strength(acts like an external weak glue for the fibers which are forming the yarn) , gliding and smoothness (less fuzz) effect to the yarn.because it also reduces the absorbtion of the enviromental humidity etc. the lifetime of the yarns which are treated with are longer.But there is a handicap which I don’t like it at all, namely it disturbs the fine structure of the spinning and the voluminous looking of the yarn(see the attachment,the yarns on the right side are with wax treated version of the same yarn on the left side).using synthetic yarns without need for waxing is another case .
Anyway as cretors for the modelship everbody has his own methods and choices but it is good to share experiences
Kind regards from Bosphorus

View attachment 326407

I am now also thinking using microwave for few seconds but I never tried it .At the moment in my present location (I am in Kalipoli Çanakkale for summer vacation for the next 2 months) I don’t have the possibility to try it.

I agree after applying a lite coat of fine bees wax you can heat with a hair dryer to penetrate the wax into the cord, and it does not look like what is illustrated in the above pictures it is worth a try see what you think it could resolve your problems