When needing a smooth finish, I always go to oil based enamels, they level themselves out, no brush marks.Jim, as always, thanks for you well considered advice.
I've always tried to keep things as uncomplicated for myself as possible, using the most readily available products. I have said that when confronted with a problem I first look around my shop (upon whose shores stuff has been washing up for years) to see if I can solve the problem with what I have at hand. Usually so. Not often the most sophisticated solutions, but satisfactorily doable.
I never took up spray brushing. There wasn't any need for it restoring furniture that I couldn't do with a brush.
Much more challenging with models. Especially J-class boat hulls. I did use commercially available spray paint on "Endeavour I" and "Rainbow" which worked out ok.
I painted the hull of my Shamrock V with acrylics and a brush, with the result, according to the critical eyes of some honest model building friends, that the outcome was successful. But not without a LOT of anxiety and sweat equity. One heck of a lot of sanding with fine, up to 6000 grit paper, which you can't use wet on acrylics, I discovered, much to my chagrin. No matter what, if you use brushes, there will always be a ghost of the brush strokes. Whether in reality, or just in my fevered brain, I ain't too sure...View attachment 393564
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Thanks, Enjay49. Looks like I'll have to broaden my horizons. Any particular enamel brands you recommend?
I've always gone to Testors enamels for modeling. Good quality, wide range of flat & gloss colors. Hobby Lobby carries them , if you have one near.
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I can relate.
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Thanks to all who entered this discussion! Many, many great tips! Using India ink for dying blocks makes perfect sense to me.I have many air brushes, they are a wonderful tool but,
only with plastic modeling. On wooden projects, inexpensive acrylics work very well, easy to apply, easy to clean up and the best part is, they don't stink!
As a side note, a 1/4 ounce bottle of Testors enamel paint cost $2.99 and up now. I still have many old bottles that have .15 & .19 cent stamps on the caps. On new ones, you can hardly read what color you're buying because of the dam warning labels. I guess that's because of all the deaths they've caused....
only with plastic modeling. On wooden projects, inexpensive acrylics work very well, easy to apply, easy to clean up and the best part is, they don't stink!
As a side note, a 1/4 ounce bottle of Testors enamel paint cost $2.99 and up now. I still have many old bottles that have .15 & .19 cent stamps on the caps. On new ones, you can hardly read what color you're buying because of the dam warning labels. I guess that's because of all the deaths they've caused....
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Demonstrating, once again, that there ain't no free lunch.
Agree, airbrush is great for plastic, cars, planes etc., not necessary for wood models where you need no gloss, or the bit of a hassle with one. Funny, exactly what I said to the store clerk--"used to be 15 cents for these!". (To be fair, though, cheaper than specialty model acylics). And yes, unreadable, I have to mark the caps, flat or gloss. I've been using them since mid 1950's, (and sign painters enamel for that work), a wonder we're still here!Demonstrating, once again, that there ain't no free lunch.
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Time and tide...
