Grating Size

[Signet]

I'm building the Ragusian Carrack by MarisStella, and no grating was provided for the stem/fore portion of the ship. Olha in her excellent build used manufactured style grating, but I am having problems finding the right size to order.

Some grating in smaller (square) sizes says the size of hole (near as I can tell about 2mm on her model. Model Shipways sells 12" long strips, specified as 12" x 3/32", 12" x 1/32" x 1/32", 12" x 1/16" x 3/64" and 12" x 3/64" x 3/64". I have no idea what those dimensions mean. What I need to know is the material thickness, the spacing or size of the resultant squares and the height of the strips. None of those dimensions seem to suit.

Any idea what those dimensions mean, and what would be best for this use?

 

[Philski]

I'm building the Ragusian Carrack by MarisStella, and no grating was provided for the stem/fore portion of the ship. Olha in her excellent build used manufactured style grating, but I am having problems finding the right size to order.

Some grating in smaller (square) sizes says the size of hole (near as I can tell about 2mm on her model. Model Shipways sells 12" long strips, specified as 12" x 3/32", 12" x 1/32" x 1/32", 12" x 1/16" x 3/64" and 12" x 3/64" x 3/64". I have no idea what those dimensions mean. What I need to know is the material thickness, the spacing or size of the resultant squares and the height of the strips. None of those dimensions seem to suit.

Any idea what those dimensions mean, and what would be best for this use?

12" is the length of the section. The other measurement are the sizes of the fingers. The space between the fingers will equal the thickness of the wood.

 

[Signet]

12" is the length of the section. The other measurement are the sizes of the fingers. The space between the fingers will equal the thickness of the wood.

, so the 1/32" x 1/32" would have 1/32" thick wood with 1/32" spaces in between (quite small for small scale), and 3/64" x 3/64" would be the same with wood and spaces at 3/64". I guess 1/16" x 3/64" would be 3/64" wood with 1/16" spaces. At my scale, the larger would be roughly 3" thick wood and space between.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I just learned something new... again.

Thanks guys!

 

[Philski]

I'm building the Ragusian Carrack by MarisStella, and no grating was provided for the stem/fore portion of the ship. Olha in her excellent build used manufactured style grating, but I am having problems finding the right size to order.

Some grating in smaller (square) sizes says the size of hole (near as I can tell about 2mm on her model. Model Shipways sells 12" long strips, specified as 12" x 3/32", 12" x 1/32" x 1/32", 12" x 1/16" x 3/64" and 12" x 3/64" x 3/64". I have no idea what those dimensions mean. What I need to know is the material thickness, the spacing or size of the resultant squares and the height of the strips. None of those dimensions seem to suit.

Any idea what those dimensions mean, and what would be best for this use?

If you want the holes (square) to be 2mm, then the 'fingers' should be 2mm. The notch width between the fingers should be the same as the thickness of the wood you are milling. Notch depth should be 1/2 the thickness of the wood. Its a lot like making finger joints for wooden boxes. Scale can affect what you are doing. Especially in the smaller scale sizes. You can make your own pieces for your grating but you will need a way to mill the wood. A tablesaw and a sled for the tablesaw makes things easier. And when I say tablesaw, I mean a modeller's tablesaw with a small blade with a kerf of maybe 1mm to 1 1/2 mm. I am including some pictures for your perusal. Remember that 'finger widths' determine spacing and hole sizes. I am also including a scale conversion chart. There are several scale conversion calculators on the web.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

How large are the holes in the average grating in full scale?

 

[Signet]

How large are the holes in the average grating in full scale?

From what I've read in another thread, 2.5" to 3" for the wood, and an equal distance for the holes/space between. I can calculate what that should be, I just was having problems reading the shorthand description of them as advertised. Some say the size of the holes, but no mention of the material. Philski gives excellent information above, but even there the spaces are obviously larger than the material used. In any event, I've ordered the 12" x 3/64" x 3/64" grating material, assuming the material is 3/64" thick and probably spaced 3/64" apart, in which case it will result in 2.77" thick material and holes for me on this ship. The cherry material should make some contrast with the walnut used in the kit.

 

[Donnie]

Thank you Phil for the very good explanation and demonstration.

I have heard that real spacing was 3/4 inch. The reason so they could still walk on top of the grates. But, that seems really small (openings squares).

 

[Signet]

Thank you Phil for the very good explanation and demonstration.

I have heard that real spacing was 3/4 inch. The reason so they could still walk on top of the grates. But, that seems really small (openings squares).

In this thread on that other forum mention is made that "Per Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, the opening was about 3" (76 mm) at full size. Other sources say 2.5" (63 mm) All say the wood should be about the same dimension." If the 3/64" dimension of what I have ordered is in fact the wood width and/or the space between, that will work well for me as it works out to 2.77" is size.

 

[bill36]

I'm building the Ragusian Carrack by MarisStella, and no grating was provided for the stem/fore portion of the ship. Olha in her excellent build used manufactured style grating, but I am having problems finding the right size to order.

Some grating in smaller (square) sizes says the size of hole (near as I can tell about 2mm on her model. Model Shipways sells 12" long strips, specified as 12" x 3/32", 12" x 1/32" x 1/32", 12" x 1/16" x 3/64" and 12" x 3/64" x 3/64". I have no idea what those dimensions mean. What I need to know is the material thickness, the spacing or size of the resultant squares and the height of the strips. None of those dimensions seem to suit.

Any idea what those dimensions mean, and what would be best for this use?

1. Gratings serve two purposes: a) a walkway for sailors and a b) entrance for air to circulate 'below'.
2. That boils down to a square hole size of 2 to 2 1/4 inches square. A hole of less than 2 inches is great for the barefoot sailors to walk on but it severely limits the airflow below. A hole size larger than 2 1/2 inches is great for airflow below, but it allows the sailors heel to go through the hole and probably breaks his ankle/leg.
3. This brings up the question of the feet getting larger with date. Men today have larger feet than sailors of 500 years ago.
The 2 1/4 square opening looks best on most models. The 2 1/2 inch opening seems to catch the eye as an error of some sort. I forgot to state that the hole size in gratings is/was determined by the 'heel size' of a bare foot sailor. A small hole size
( less than 2 inches) is great to walk on but lousy for letting air into the lower decks. A hole size larger than 2 1/4 inches allows the heel to go into the hole and probably breaks the sailors ankle/leg, but is much better for airflow. Obviously there is no absolute number. it is a compromise. In a model it it better to go with 2 1/4 inches. Gratings are a major aesthetic item on the deck. A small change in hole size may make a large change in the visual impact of the model.
4. Comment. The grating hole size on the model are too large; they just look out of place. Also, gratings never would have been painted white; white paint would have been very expensive and would have had an egg, boiled linseed oil or thinned pine tar base None of these paints would have lasted any amount of time at sea. Enough said.

 

[Philski]

1. Gratings serve two purposes: a) a walkway for sailors and a b) entrance for air to circulate 'below'.
2. That boils down to a square hole size of 2 to 2 1/4 inches square. A hole of less than 2 inches is great for the barefoot sailors to walk on but it severely limits the airflow below. A hole size larger than 2 1/2 inches is great for airflow below, but it allows the sailors heel to go through the hole and probably breaks his ankle/leg.
3. This brings up the question of the feet getting larger with date. Men today have larger feet than sailors of 500 years ago.
The 2 1/4 square opening looks best on most models. The 2 1/2 inch opening seems to catch the eye as an error of some sort. I forgot to state that the hole size in gratings is/was determined by the 'heel size' of a bare foot sailor. A small hole size
( less than 2 inches) is great to walk on but lousy for letting air into the lower decks. A hole size larger than 2 1/4 inches allows the heel to go into the hole and probably breaks the sailors ankle/leg, but is much better for airflow. Obviously there is no absolute number. it is a compromise. In a model it it better to go with 2 1/2 inches. Gratings are a major aesthetic item on the deck. A small change in hole size may make a large change in the visual impact of the model.
4. Comment. The grating hole size on the model are too large; they just look out of place. Also, gratings never would have been painted white; white paint would have been very expensive and would have had an egg, boiled linseed oil or thinned pine tar base None of these paints would have lasted any amount of time at sea. Enough said.

But. Where did you see grating painted white?

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

But. Where did you see grating painted white?

Guilty as charged. . .

 

[Donnie]

3/4" yikes, what in the world was I thinking - a BIG Ops !!! Yea, I know that is not right --- LOL

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

3/4" yikes, what in the world was I thinking - a BIG Ops !!! Yea, I know that is not right --- LOL

3/4" grates would almost keep out the mosquitoes too!

Interestingly, a 3" grate would translate to a very fine grating on a 1:78 scale model. Even the finest laser cut gratings may not be small enough on a model.

 

[Signet]

3/4" grates would almost keep out the mosquitoes too!

Interestingly, a 3" grate would translate to a very fine grating on a 1:78 scale model. Even the finest laser cut gratings may not be small enough on a model.

The wood thickness for Model Shipways cherry wood grating material is available in 1/32", 3/64" (what I got) and 1/16", working out to 2.44" to 4.88" in 1:78 scale. I have seen other grating packs that specify a 1mm spacing (3" in 1:78) to 3mm or more. For my 3/64" and 1:59 scale, it works out to 2.77", which is fine. Actually, the 1/32" is reasonable even for a 1:98 scale model (at just over 3"). However the steps in thickness of 1.5 or 2 times that value might not work out well for a particular scale. Still, I think we've been accustomed to seeing grating that is oversize, and it still looks good to most of us.

I will see when I receive the grating material if the openings and wood thickness is the same. Most of what I've seen has the holes larger than the wood.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

The wood thickness for Model Shipways cherry wood grating material is available in 1/32", 3/64" (what I got) and 1/16", working out to 2.44" to 4.88" in 1:78 scale. I have seen other grating packs that specify a 1mm spacing (3" in 1:78) to 3mm or more. For my 3/64" and 1:59 scale, it works out to 2.77", which is fine. Actually, the 1/32" is reasonable even for a 1:98 scale model (at just over 3"). However the steps in thickness of 1.5 or 2 times that value might not work out well for a particular scale. Still, I think we've been accustomed to seeing grating that is oversize, and it still looks good to most of us.

I will see when I receive the grating material if the openings and wood thickness is the same. Most of what I've seen has the holes larger than the wood.

Almost all kit gratings are oversized. Those like myself who modify (bash) kits replace many parts and materials to improve our models. Common things replaced are cannon carriages, blocks, planking materials, rigging line, and gratings. Even with small bits of scratch building and parts replacements, you can always make a kit build better.

 

[MikeC]

Teak, where available and affordable, was often used. Left unfinished it was non skid. Like wood decks which to my knowledge were not painted either. Varnished decks on models are unrealistic. Painted or finished decks when wet would be treacherous. Bare and scrubbed — or sanded and allowed to bleach in salt water and sun were the practice . This would generally apply to gratings. Here is a piece of used teak grating I salvaged. 1” x 1” openings; 3/4” strips and comfortable to walk on barefoot .

 

[Signet]

12" is the length of the section. The other measurement are the sizes of the fingers. The space between the fingers will equal the thickness of the wood.

Just received the 12" grating strips today from Model Shipways, in 3/64" thickness (called 3/64" x 3/64"). I can confirm what Philski stated that the first dimension is the wood thickness, and if the same dimension in the description, also the space between strips (the 12 x 1/16 x 3/64 may have spaces different than wood thickness). So for my 1:59 model, the wood thickness and space between works out to 2.77", which is I think as close as I'd ever get, outside of custom making them. Thanks again, Philski!

Material looks pretty good, BTW, is cherry, and with 12" strips will have less waste. Only thing I don't care for is that top and bottom surfaces have laser char, but since they should be sanded anyhow to match deck curve, that won't present a problem. Oh, and they're the same price when purchased through Model Shipways on eBay as directly from Model Shipways, only on eBay shipping is free!