bowsprit topmast backsyays (crowsfeet)

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rick robbins

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I'm wondering if any member could give me some tips on making the crowsfeet-type backstays for a sprit topmast? I've seen the work of some members & am baffled as how to proceed. I tried on the Heller La Couronne, (probably too small) & had some success, but the result was far from satisfactory. I'm now working on the Airfix Vasa, & would appreciate any help! If I can't do this & make it look reasonably good, I guess I'll have to resort to a different style, although not historically correct! Any info would be greatly appreciated! Rick Robbins
 
Read here on how to approach making crows feet on La Couronne. Click the link, then slide down to Post# 258. This example shows how to make crows feet for the fore topmast stay line. The sprit topmast backstay is shown on Post# 285 on the next page.

LINK <---

1648426848337.png

Instructions from 1:65 scale Wasa from Artesania Latina. Dimensions are provided.
1648427319844.png
 
Last edited:
Trying again:

Vasa - 1:65 DeAgostini [COMPLETED BUILD]

Dear Friends, I can honestly say I feel so blessed to count you all among my 'forum' friends. Your kind words of encouragement and well-wishes have meant so much to me. Thank you all! Damian is doing extremely well. Some days are better than others, but all-in-all we feel like this particular...
shipsofscale.com

If this link doesn't work, see my build log post #2337 on page 117.
 
I think using euphroes are more historically accurate at the root of each of the crows feet than blocks which the Artesania Latina instructions indicate. Paul's model also uses euphroes.
 
Darius & Dockattner- Thank you so much for the info! I, too, used blocks on my first attempt at the crowsfeet on the La Couronne, & I knew they were the problem. On that scale, available blocks were just too big, & I probably should have used small beads or something. The Vasa, which I am currently building, is largerm but not by much. I'm hoping I can make euphroes out of construction plastic, so I'll give it a shot! Again, thank you both, the tips & measurements are invaluable. And so is SOS, the most informative group I have been associated with yet!
 
rick robbins said:
Darius & Dockattner- Thank you so much for the info! I, too, used blocks on my first attempt at the crowsfeet on the La Couronne, & I knew they were the problem. On that scale, available blocks were just too big, & I probably should have used small beads or something. The Vasa, which I am currently building, is largerm but not by much. I'm hoping I can make euphroes out of construction plastic, so I'll give it a shot! Again, thank you both, the tips & measurements are invaluable. And so is SOS, the most informative group I have been associated with yet!
Click to expand...
You can make the euphroes out of a stick of walnut hardwood. Drill the holes arranged in a straight line FIRST do you don't risk splitting the wood, then cut the shape out, and file the edges with a shallow groove with the edge of a needle file to accept the pendant rope. Each one takes about 20 minutes. And they look sexy.
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
I think using euphroes are more historically accurate at the root of each of the crows feet than blocks which the Artesania Latina instructions indicate. Paul's model also uses euphroes.
Click to expand...
I agree--it also makes the job easier. Just be sure to put some tension on the stay so it doesn't get pulled out of line when you tighten the knots.
 
The euphroe blocks can be tricky at small scale. I found that when drilling 4-5 holes along the grain, when I rigged the lines, tension would split the block along the grain joining the holes.

So, I rotated my timber 90 degrees and drilled the holes so the line up of holes was ACROSS the grain. The tension on the lines never split the wood then.

PeterG
 
Thank you everyone for the tips & info! I've made my first euphroe & will try rigging it today. I had to make it from plastic, as I couldn't find a stick of walnut or other suitable wood, but will try Home Depot later today.
 
Maybe this picture will help you get the rigged lines in place when making these crowfeet. It is hard to hold everything in place when it is so small. but by making a construction to hold the euphroes in place it is easy to rig the feet of the crowfeet.
IMG_1017.JPG.jpg

it was helping me and makes the job a little easier to do.
 
rick robbins said:
Thank you everyone for the tips & info! I've made my first euphroe & will try rigging it today. I had to make it from plastic, as I couldn't find a stick of walnut or other suitable wood, but will try Home Depot later today.
Click to expand...
Avoid oak because the grain is so large, that when making very tiny parts, it's like drilling through a handful of straws clutched in your fist. Splits and crumbling are very hard to avoid. If you want to go cheap, try poplar. It's not particularly hard compared to walnut but has a fine grain and is stainable. Cherry has a fine grain also, but is harder. Walnut is hard, and wants to split and splinter when you try to cut it along the grain and can break when trying to make tiny parts, but if filed and shaped using diamond files, it works and you don't have to stain it. You just can't find it at Home Depot. For such a tiny part, plastic is an excellent substitute when painted. It won't split on you.
 
PeterG said:
The euphroe blocks can be tricky at small scale. I found that when drilling 4-5 holes along the grain, when I rigged the lines, tension would split the block along the grain joining the holes.

So, I rotated my timber 90 degrees and drilled the holes so the line up of holes was ACROSS the grain. The tension on the lines never split the wood then.

PeterG
Click to expand...
If you carve a tiny euphroe out of dense walnut, and leave enough ligament between the holes, and drill VERY carefully, you can avoid the splits. The thickness of the euphroe must be equal to or a bit thicker than the stay it it tied to. You have to file a shallow groove all around the euphroe and use a bit of glue it ensure it doesn't slip easily out of the loop in the stay line. This is one of those details that looks fantastic and shows an understanding of proper rigging. Cheap kits use only blocks.
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
Cherry has a fine grain also, but is harder
Click to expand...
When I make blocks I love to use cherry because of the density, fine grain and is hard. Does not splinter and is easy to cut, drill and sand. If you have the possibility to get some cherrywood. Buy a few strips for this kind of work. Makes it a lot easier to make blocks. And at last the colour is perfect too.
 
rick robbins said:
I'm wondering if any member could give me some tips on making the crowsfeet-type backstays for a sprit topmast? I've seen the work of some members & am baffled as how to proceed. I tried on the Heller La Couronne, (probably too small) & had some success, but the result was far from satisfactory. I'm now working on the Airfix Vasa, & would appreciate any help! If I can't do this & make it look reasonably good, I guess I'll have to resort to a different style, although not historically correct! Any info would be greatly appreciated! Rick Robbins
Click to expand...
Hallo @rick robbins
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
 
Thank You Uwek, & all the members of this great website! The info & pics I've gotten from everyone are priceless, & have helped a poor, plastic ship Ship-builder immensely! haha I'd like to send some pics of my work, but haven't quite figured out how to do that yet! (Electronic Idiot!) Have a GREAT Memorial Day weekend, everyone!

Rick1011
 
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