Interestingly, the nodes at the front of the Bluenose, unlike the Bluenose 2, do not converge—a situation that is statically unfavorable. This likely relates to the fact that initially only one forward stay extended downward, with the second probably being retrofitted. Since the first, forward stay was already attached at the apex of the bow curvature, only space in the inner area remained... a speculation...
Not only a speculation, Franz. Your assumption is confirmed by this pictures, at the launch and just after the launch:
On this later picture, both are a bit in view:
And in this a cutout of her under sail:
Regards, Peter
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A inventive way of making the small and fragile brass parts, Franz. More solid than the ones made from small brass strips. And …… no soldering needed.
Regards, Peter
The rudder has kept me busy for a while now.
Initially, I wanted to make the steel brackets with narrow copper strips, but that didn't achieve the desired result, so I had to remove them and apply filler again.
Next attempt: I tried filing small notches to represent the fittings - again no success, so more filling and sanding.
Next attempt: I went with brass strips and small rivets and there you have it: that's what we'll use! You just can't give up.
Initially, I wanted to make the steel brackets with narrow copper strips, but that didn't achieve the desired result, so I had to remove them and apply filler again.
Next attempt: I tried filing small notches to represent the fittings - again no success, so more filling and sanding.
Next attempt: I went with brass strips and small rivets and there you have it: that's what we'll use! You just can't give up.
Inserting the bowsprit:
attached to the sampson post, and on the downhaul block, the horse with the rider attached.
I crafted the rider from a brass sheet, bending it upwards with a mandrel, a reversed brass rivet. The rider has a 7-8 degree upward angle to match the jumbo beam, which I'll later attach to the reversed rivet.
When bending the bracket for the forestay, I ended up filing a brass strip instead of using wire, and it worked better. Generally, I find that thin brass strips are very easy to file, solder, and work with.
attached to the sampson post, and on the downhaul block, the horse with the rider attached.
I crafted the rider from a brass sheet, bending it upwards with a mandrel, a reversed brass rivet. The rider has a 7-8 degree upward angle to match the jumbo beam, which I'll later attach to the reversed rivet.
When bending the bracket for the forestay, I ended up filing a brass strip instead of using wire, and it worked better. Generally, I find that thin brass strips are very easy to file, solder, and work with.